2004 Spongy brakes after several bleedings

[boppa7]

I hate reading threads that contain all the problem details but then leave me hanging because the poster didn't close the loop on the solution... so here's the final outcome.

Took the car to Honda. They hooked it up to the ABS scan tool and said that there we no issues aside from bleeding a small amount of air from the ABS modulator. They said that the rear pads have uneven wear but are not at the point of replacement yet (~6 months left on them) so they said this could explain the soft pedal (not completely sure I buy that but they are the experts). They suggested I order some pads (maybe rotors too) and replace them in the summer/fall with an expectation that the firmness I'm seeking will come back.

I drove away with a pedal that is more firm than when it went in but it's still not as firm as I think it could be. I went to an empty parking lot that had copious amounts of road sand left over from the winter and was able to activate the ABS system with relative ease. I'm no longer concerned with stopping safely.

[harold]

Bopa7;
Thanks for letting us know the outcome. That is why I paid the $65 and had both my v and civic done by Honda. Its not worth the hassle sometimes?
Cheers;

H

[JCat]

My experiences:

Pressing the brake peddle to the floor SOMETIMES damages the O-rings in the master cylinder. They are not used-to traveling that far in their bores.

Bad brake lines can cause spongy brakes. Typically they are constructed of an inner hose and outer "jacket". If the inner hose can expand in the jacket = spongy feel.

Brake pads . . . they do not always feel the same. . . different brands and construction can make a difference.

I find it odd that Honda wants us to bleed the shortest run first, then the next longest, and so-on. Most other manufacturers tell you to bleed the longest run first, then the second longest, and so-on.

Lastly, in the other vehicle forums I participate in, the MOTIVE Pressure Bleeder is considered the best tool to bleed your brake system. It is expensive, and it uses pressure to flush the system. LINK

[boppa7]

It's been almost a year but a few details worth noting...

I drove about another 5 months on the existing pads and rotors. All the while I had a nagging concern in my head about the fact that the pedal remains soft despite the fact that the CR-V was stopping fine.

I then put new pads and rotors for all four wheels and while I was doing so I noticed that there was a lot of corrosion and dirt on the little metal shims that the pads ride on (you know the clip like things that are wedged into the top and bottom of the calipers where the pad knobs slide... I'm sure there's a real name for them if someone cares to comment). It was Sunday and I had no access to Honda parts so I put a wire wheel in my drill press and made those little metals shims sparkle.

After the brake job was done the pedal firmness I was looking for was back. What a difference!

[Bill in Houston]

Boppa7, thanks for posting all of your efforts and info. I hate unresolved threads, too. I learned some new stuff from this one.

If you get to the end of this and it was just those little springy shim things being dirty, I will be amazed.

[dsmith]

It has been a while since I have done a break job. I haven't heard of using a scan tool to bleed the brakes. I am used to the two person "DOWN", "down", "UP", "up" method.
I do want to tell you, I appreciate the time and energy you put into your post. I read on another forum that you should put a 2X4 or similar spacer under the pedal so it doesn't travel all the way down. As you stated, and I have read, you should start with the farthest caliper from the master cylinder as that will have the most air. Strange that you read somewhere to start with the closest.
I hope that I learn from your mistakes, don't make my own, and I have a better experience. Thanks again.

Question: Do I need an ABS scan tool or not? Is there a bleeder on the ABS system? Should I avoid bleeding the ABS if I can help it?

[fixer]

I


Question: Do I need an ABS scan tool or not? Is there a bleeder on the ABS system? Should I avoid bleeding the ABS if I can help it?

If you find that the pedal is still soft after the normal bleed procedure then you should take the car out for a test ride during which you will purposely cause the ABS to activate. This should force the air out of the ABS system pump and into the system where you can remove it with one more normal bleeding.