Dead battery
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Thread: Dead battery

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Dead battery

    Our 2005 CR-V's battery goes dead after the car sits for less than a week. Any time I disconnect and reconnect the battery, the back window unlatches. Is this normal? I keep thinking that window latch is drawing current for some reason.

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Junior
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    Is the battery the original one? If so, time to change it.

    Otto

  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    You could have the battery load tested after charging. If it isn't the battery, you have a higher then normal drain ( normal -alarm, radio settings etc) You could disconnect the battery and put a ammeter from the batt to cable and take a reading - normally it would be very low. If say a amp or two, you have something putting on a extra drain - way shops do it is to start by pulling fuses ( remove and replace if reading doesn't change) I would first try the fuse that supplies power to the back window. Our 2005 CRV has the original battery but I plan to replace before winter.

  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R View Post
    You could have the battery load tested after charging. If it isn't the battery, you have a higher then normal drain ( normal -alarm, radio settings etc) You could disconnect the battery and put a ammeter from the batt to cable and take a reading - normally it would be very low. If say a amp or two, you have something putting on a extra drain - way shops do it is to start by pulling fuses ( remove and replace if reading doesn't change) I would first try the fuse that supplies power to the back window. Our 2005 CRV has the original battery but I plan to replace before winter.
    I would like to pull that fuse, but I can't figure out which one it is.

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishkillBill View Post
    I would like to pull that fuse, but I can't figure out which one it is.
    It might be hard to isolate the rear window latch by pulling a fuse without unnecessarily disabling something else, possible a critical part of the vehicles electrical system.

    I have an alternative idea if you can't find the fuse and you think the rear latch is the problem. See if you can locate the rear window latch wiring, you can probably disconnect the latch actuator by unplugging a connector. You'll have to pull some interior panels off the tailgate, witch will be a pain, or maybe see if you can disconnect the hatch release button in the driver side door... just an idea.

    For some reason I don't think the rear window latch is your problem, but I suppose it couldn't hurt to inspect the button and wiring connections.
    Last edited by thud105; 04-09-2010 at 09:00 PM.

  7. #6
    MECP Audio Expert
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    do you have an aftermarket alarm with the trunk pop on it? If so the relay is wired wrong.

  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    I didn't mean that the fuse would be left out - only to find the area where the problem is. Maybe a bare wire somewhere. If it is at the back window, it may be where the wiring goes from the door to the body.

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Had same problem

    I had same problem. I bought new V in 2006 and was dumb enough to ask Honda to install remote starter. Actually, I was full by sales person. He told me I had to buy from dealership otherwise Honda would not honor manufacture warranty. Moreover they installed aftermarket remote starter. To make long story short after that V battery became dead every week. I even had to start V every day to make it alive. Honda did thousand tests, replaced battery and more and found nothing wrong. On my luck I moved to different state and got no support from local dealer. So what I did? I simply disco remote starter and so far so good. To be honest I had V in 2000. It had same issue. I was forced to sell it because again had no help from Honda dealer. Previous V had no aftermarket alarm or remote starter.

  10. #9
    MECP Audio Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by cemen777 View Post
    I had same problem. I bought new V in 2006 and was dumb enough to ask Honda to install remote starter. Actually, I was full by sales person. He told me I had to buy from dealership otherwise Honda would not honor manufacture warranty. Moreover they installed aftermarket remote starter. To make long story short after that V battery became dead every week. I even had to start V every day to make it alive. Honda did thousand tests, replaced battery and more and found nothing wrong. On my luck I moved to different state and got no support from local dealer. So what I did? I simply disco remote starter and so far so good. To be honest I had V in 2000. It had same issue. I was forced to sell it because again had no help from Honda dealer. Previous V had no aftermarket alarm or remote starter.
    Sounds like you have morons working on your vehicles. It's a simple draw test. Also the dealer lied to you about the warranty. Search magnisum-moss act. They broke the law.

  11. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by illegal View Post
    Sounds like you have morons working on your vehicles. It's a simple draw test. Also the dealer lied to you about the warranty. Search magnisum-moss act. They broke the law.

    EDIT> Sorry for bringing up an old post.. was searching for how many others online are also having the dead battery issue and posted this before I looked at the date :-)
    <End Edit

    No, it's a constant issue with newer Hondas. I do remote starts for a living and even the support forums for iDatalink are littered with other installers trying to figure out why the cars are dieing. My neighbors CRV that I installed an Avital 4103 and an ADS-AL(CA) into is dieing after sitting for 3 or 4 days.

    I'm going to do a current draw test in a little bit here, but I expect to see a reading of under 50mA. I know the ADS units pull between 7mA and 15mA at rest, so it's the remote start I really need to check. But other installers have hit the same snag with various products.

    I measured the voltage this morning (it's acting up again.. battery low enough the remote start tries to kick on, but the starter clicks and doesn't have enough power to crank over) and the voltage was at 11.7 after sitting since Friday (today being Monday). The stock battery is the same size you'd find in an older Civic (2006.. even my 91 had nearly the same size IIRC) and with only 410 CCA and such a small size, it seems there's not much reserve capacity to the damn things at all. I've read of others replacing with a non-Honda battery and the issue goes away.

    As for the law, it COULD void the warranty for any part of the system(s) the remote start ties into. On a lot of newer Hondas the interfaces connect via both hard wire and CAN interfaces. For example, Accords have two identical wires in the same location.. one is for trunk pop the other is something ECU related. There have been posts from long time professional installers on the support forums for some products I use who have said/confirmed even metering the wrong wire with a DMM has screwed up the ECU. So yes, if you had someone else install a remote start, and the Immob computer dies or other things goes wrong, then they can say the warranty on those parts are no longer valid since there's reasonable proof the installation of the remote start caused the problems and be well within the law.
    Last edited by rjr162; 03-07-2011 at 10:57 AM.

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