1997 CRV, no spark, new coil, new ignition module
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Thread: 1997 CRV, no spark, new coil, new ignition module

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    1997 CRV, no spark, new coil, new ignition module

    I have a 1997 Honda CRV that was driving fine. It was parked in the driveway and then refused to start.

    The starter rotates the engine, yes. The battery is fully charged, with a battery charger.

    I replaced the coil and ignition module... and it started once immediately after this procedure, but once turned off would not re start, only crank.

    There is no spark. The tachometer does not jiggle at all.
    The cams are turning, the timing belt is intact.

    So, what are your thoughts? Does a honda have a crank position sender that could be bad?

    This is my first honda. I'm pretty handy with a VW, though.

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    what about the CYP sensor in the dizzy? I'm looking through the shop manual now, and it appears there are a few sensors that could trigger a spark...

    CKF (on block behind pulleys), CYP inside distributor...

  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Senior
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    I've heard of the ignition switch failing in the earlier CRVs, esp if you had a heavy keyring hanging there.
    Buffalo4
    PS: Make sure the rotor, distributor cap and the item that takes the place of the coil wire are in good shape also.
    Last edited by Buffalo4; 11-22-2011 at 01:33 PM.

  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    The distributor cap, rotor, and "coil-to-cap" spring are new and in place.

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    I suggest you double check the timing belt.Just because its "in-tact" does not mean it hasnt slipped.Check the camshaft timing marks to be sure they are still in alignment.There could be a different problem,but if the camshaft marks arent
    "in-sync" you could have the condition you describe.My .02

  7. #6
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by n5926g View Post
    I suggest you double check the timing belt.Just because its "in-tact" does not mean it hasnt slipped.Check the camshaft timing marks to be sure they are still in alignment.There could be a different problem,but if the camshaft marks arent
    "in-sync" you could have the condition you describe.My .02
    I'm not saying it's not possible - I don't know much about Hondas - but is it possible that the timing belt slipping could cause a 'no spark' situation? These two items usually aren't related on other engines.

  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    I have seen situations that show up when the crankshaft sensor is not in sync with the camshaft sensor.Not saying I know this is your case,but you need to verify those marks.How many miles are on the belt?If memory serves the interval is around 109,000.IF you are close to that,you really need to replace it even if its not the root cause of your immediate problem.

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Problem located. Solution at hand. Thanks Buffalo4 for the idea to explore the switch.
    Quote Originally Posted by Buffalo4 View Post
    I've heard of the ignition switch failing in the earlier CRVs...<snip>
    Buffalo4
    The problem: The electrical ignition switch is bad.
    The diagnosing procedure: Turn key to run, place transmission in DRIVE. Your ignition interlock SHOULD (if it is functioning properly and you have not disabled it) prevent the starter from engaging while the automatic transmission is in any gear other than PARK or Neutral. So with the transmission in drive turn and hold the key in the III "Start" position. Then, hold the brake firmly and, while still holding key in III, shift the car from drive to NEUTRAL, and allow the engine to start, then, while still holding the key in III, shift back to DRIVE.

    Results of the test:If you held the key in III this whole time you will now have a running car that is in drive and you are still holding the key in III but the starter is not engaged because the ignition interlock disengages the starter when you shift back into DRIVE.

    The SOLUTIONIf this works for you, as it did for me, the solution is a 45 dollar ignition switch at the local parts store. The ignition switches are prone to failure and are also the subject of a recall by Honda. The recall put the same switch back in, so it will fail to... in time. Honda will allegedly only fix it once.

    To tell if you have the recall completed look at the VIN stamping on your firewall (from inside the engine compartment) and look above the 7th, or so, character to see if there is a center punch mark on the metal. Honda dealers center punch the VIN marking upon completion of the recall.

    You do not have to take the dash apart to replace the electrical switch, nor do you have to do anything with the key tumbler/key ignition switch. The electrical portion of this switch is screwed to the rear most part of the ignition switch assembly and can be removed with two small phillips head screws. You will find this switch and the screws located just above the brake pedal, on the side nearest the gas pedal (Right side of brake pedal when facing forward). The switch has two pigtails that terminate with standard connectors. Just unclick the two connectors and click in your new switch.

    Bang.
    Last edited by PlaneJob; 11-25-2011 at 04:29 PM.

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