2002 CRV Hot Left Rear Rotor

[sgruver78]

So when i got home i noticed that i was burning up my rear drivers side brake pads. i figured i had a froze caliper on that side so i got a replacement and installed it with no problems. I drove it around that night and the smell is gone but noticed that the rotor is extremely hot to where when i spit on it it started to sizzle. i ran to the passenger side and did the same thing and it was actually only barely warm to the touch. So i searched this site and read about possibly the slide pins being in the wrong spot, sure enough they were upside down. So i took it for a test spin thinking that i solved the issue but sure enough the drivers side is still hot as hell! Now my only last option is maybe the E brake cable is hung up. Can someone explain to me where I can look to see if its hanging up? The Thanks a lot guys and gals!

[bestia]

I doubt your E-Brake would cause that kind of heat on the actual rotor surface. Your E-Brake is a drum brake system inside the rotor, doesn't clamp the caliper shut.

When you replaced the caliper, did you clean the pad retainers (where the pads touch) and apply Moly Synthetic grease (CRC Synthetic grease very good) on either end of the pad and between the pad shims and backing plate? Did you clean the slide pins and use the appropriate synthetic slide pin grease? Honda Released a TSB in 2004 for the rear brakes. Has some good info on prepping and cleaning prior to assembly of the rear brakes. Rear rotors should be hot to the touch after driving (fronts definitely hotter) but not sizzle water.

[thud105]

I had the same overheating issue with both rear brake rotors a couple weeks ago. I cleaned and lubed the pad retainers and caliper slider pins with (same process described by bestia). That's excellent advice, and for me, it solved the overheating problem. It's probably something that should be done at every pad change.

I'm not sure what the Honda specified lube for the pins would be, other than "silicone" based grease (as quoted in the service manual). I use Permatex 24115 Ultra Disk Brake Caliper Lube, Hi-Temp Silicone Formula for the caliper pins. The manual specifically calls for Molykote M77 on the BACK of the brake pads, shims, and pad/retainer clip contact points.

[bestia]

I pull my brakes apart 1/year to clean and lubricate. I use Permatex Synthetic caliper pin grease for the slide pins and CRC Synthetic grease on the backing plates/end of pads (don't use CRC on slide pins!!!). CRC is compatible to Molykote 77 that Honda recommends, even looks identical. Both those products can be found at PEP Boys or other similar places. My CRV sees alot of snow and road salt during the winter therefore the brakes take quite a beating, especially the rears.

[Carbuff2]

All good points. Check that stuff first. I service the rear caliper sliders on my V once a year.

I would replace the other side caliper too. But that's the way I roll....



On a 10 year old CRV: if new/rebuilt calipers don't stop the problem, I'd consider replacing the rubber brake lines (again, recommend replacing both sides of the axle). The rubber could be swollen inside, not allowing the caliper to release when you let off the brakes.



To prevent this from happening in the future, PLEASE replace (flush) your brake fluid every 3 years as Honda recommends.