2003 Cooling Fan - Page 2
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Thread: 2003 Cooling Fan

  1. #11
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    North Alabama
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    298
    There is no need to replace the whole assembly, just replace the motor. If you dont have time to order the part on line print out the online cost and take it to the dealer and try for a price match. My local dealer will match the price plus tax. Since it is the AC fan you could remove it and let your daughter go back to school while you work on the fan and reinstall next time she is home. I guess she will be home again before hot weather ?

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  3. #12
    crv|oc Rank: Junior
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    707
    My fan went bad five years ago and I just put a junkyard one and it is still working. Original will be expensive.

  4. #13
    crv|oc Rank: Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by crvmpls View Post
    Not to get off track, but there is a recall for the driver's side window wiring on the 2nd generation CRV's??
    It was a recall in November 2012. NHTSA Recall 12V-486. It relates to the power window master switch.

  5. #14
    crv|oc Rank: Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    19
    Since a few of you have done this, I have a few questions.

    Yesterday I pulled the shroud off to get a look at what's involved in getting to the fan motor. It looks like a PITA. If I want to try running jumpers from the motor to the battery, it looks like I have to remove the upper radiator hose, air intake and maybe more. I haven't bought the 3 day subscription to the techinfo site yet, and I'm having second thoughts on whether I should tackle it.

  6. #15
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Oct 2012
    Location
    Chicago suburb
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    I believe that the advice to use jumpers to the battery to test the fan means to fully remove the fan and then use jumper wires to test.
    2013 CR-V EX-L AWD Alabaster Silver with Black interior

  7. #16
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Alabama
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    I just went out and looked at my 2012 and the connector is right at the top of the fan. I also think on this car that it would be easier to take the plastic splashguard off under the front of the car and drop the fan out the bottom, not sure about a 2003. I use small wires with alligator clips on each end connected from the battery to the fan connector to test the fan. If you can locate the fan motor connector you should be able to jump it without taking the fan out of the car.

  8. #17
    crv|oc Rank: Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    19
    Here's an update:

    I am defeated!!!

    This evening I decided to go for it. I bought some test leads and determined the fan motor was bad. I would have been pissed if the dealer said it was bad and it ended up being the relay.

    Between a few videos and the semi-helpful online manual, it was time to dig in. I removed the top plastic shroud, top radiator hose, air intake, the radiator mounts and the battery/tray and still couldn't get the *^$*&$&# out. An online video for the Element showed taking out the metal battery support, but 2 of the bolts were underneath the support and called it quits. I put everything back together and no leftover bolts or any other problems.

    I'm going to call the service advisor I have used for our last 4 Hondas and see what their policy is on owners providing aftermarket parts. I'll let you know how that call goes.

    Thanks for the support!

  9. #18
    crv|oc Rank: Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    9
    The fan on the driver side is the AC condenser fan.
    This information is incorrect. The fan on the driver's side is the radiator fan, the fan on the passenger's side is the A/C condenser fan. I recently replaced the radiator fan, after I noticed that when the A/C thermostat was not set on full cold the air blowing from the A/C would get colder upon acceleration and warmer when stopped in traffic or coasting. The car never overheated but when I was investgating this I noticed that once I turned on my A/C only my A/C condenser fan would turn on. I tested the dead radiator fan by taking a set of wires with alligator clips that I put together from parts from Home Depot and cliping the wires directly from the battery to the connector on the radiator fan - when I got no movement out of the fan I knew it was the motor and not a seperate relay/fuse. Replacing the radiator fan looked like it would be a real PITA so I ordered a Dorman replacment radiator fan from Amazon (part #620-232) for $78 and had Firestone install it for $180. Seems to be working very well now.

  10. #19
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Location
    North Alabama
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    The original statement is correct the fan on the drivers side is the AC condenser fan, the passenger side is the radiator fan ! On that model one fan motor is bigger around and flat that is the AC condenser fan. The radiator fan motor is smaller around and deeper in dimensions .
    Last edited by Blue12EXL; 01-20-2013 at 11:51 AM.

  11. #20
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue12EXL View Post
    The original statement is correct the fan on the drivers side is the AC condenser fan, the passenger side is the radiator fan ! On that model one fan motor is bigger around and flat that is the AC condenser fan. The radiator fan motor is smaller around and deeper in dimensions .
    Look, I'm glad you want to help, but it simply isn't true. The AC condenser fan is on passerger's side, the radiator fan is on the driver's side. This assumes that you are referencing a US model with the steering wheel on the left hand side.

    If you don't believe me, I've posted a shot from the factory manual defining the fans. You can also check the following link from Advance Auto Parts which defines the left hand fan (driver's side) as being the radiator fan: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...t-620-232.html.

    Finally, the following link will show you a YouTube video where they remove the A/C condenser fan, from the passenger side of the car:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAUdmq-TMaA


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