2002 CR-V High Idle When Cold

[ctridgeline]

Hi All,

I have a 2002 CR-V that, when cold, initially idles fine (first started). Then when you begin driving it and come to a stop sign, the RPMs stay at 2500-3500. This is a 5 speed stick and even when driving, you can press the clutch in and it will do the same (while still rolling). After about 3-5 minutes of this happening, it stops and will idle normally. Also when it does idle this high, it will last for about 10 seconds, then slowly drop down to around 1000-1500 RPM.

This problem has been with it since I bought it used w/13000 miles, it now has 60000. Had it to the dealer twice and they 'could not duplicate it'. This happens any time of year, but more so during the colder months.

Any thought?
Thanks in advance for the replies!
CT

[2RedV's]

Sounds like one of the symptoms of a dirty IAC (idle air control valve) Here's a link that has pictures. It is pretty easy to clean. There are actually 2 of them. The one they show is the easy one to get to and is usually the culprit. You shoulds also try a bottle of genuine Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner. Techron is what many mechanics use and charge you $69.95 and more for the priviledge of pouring a $5 bottle into your fuel tank.

You could also replace them, but cleaning the IAC would be a first step and it's free.

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144463

[ctridgeline]

Thanks for the reply! I will hopefully get a chance to try this tomorrow night and will post the outcome!

CT

[ctridgeline]

Well... I went outside tonight to take the part off and clean it... However where it looks like this part is, it looks like the air filter will need to removed and some other hoses. Not a job to be doing outside with it 15 degrees out (and dropping)... Perhaps if we get a small heat wave in the next couple of weeks, I will give it a try.

Am I correct that there will be a large heater hose (coming from the radiator) and some smaller hoses going to this part?

Thanks,
CT

[2RedV's]

Yes, it gets heated in cold weather via the those coolant hoses.

[2RedV's]

You may want to remove it without actually removing the heater hoses. They may be really tough to get off and you can do it without actually removing them. You should be able to twist it around enough without the hose removal.
At least you won't spill much coolant then either, not that much will come out anyhow since it is so high up compared to the radiator.

After you clean it and re-install, you may want to run it in first gear at 4,000+ rpms a few times and then back to idle to help reset the idle speed. Not only can this step do the trick, but it also helps if you may have got an air bubble in the coolant system while doing the IAC cleaning. Honda's don't care for air bubbles! Too many things are controlled by the temp that the ECU thinks the car is operating at.

[ctridgeline]

OK, Thanks for the info. Perhaps this weekend I might give it a try, but they are saying highs in 20's... Brrrrrr....

CT

[jtifm]

Bringing this back from the dead. 130,000 miles, just bought used. Same model, year, transmission, and problem. I have replace the IAC, maxed out the coolant, done the idle re-learn after disconnecting the battery, and pulled the #6 fuse under the hood to reset the ECM. All no-joy. At this point I am considering replacing the ECM/PCM at $500 . Does anyone have any other brainstorms, perhaps just unplugging the IAC? This is driving me nuts, car is great otherwise.
Much thanks.

[jonshonda]

I am pretty sure its not the ECM, but if it is you should be able to find a used one for much less than $500. It only happens when cold? Any other performance issues?

[jtifm]

Thanks for the response. Car runs great otherwise. It is really consistent behavior when cold.
- run through first, clutch, idle drops to 1k
- run through second, clutch, idle drops to 2k, creeps up to 2,700 as I approach my first stop sign in the neighborhood and stays there until I stay stopped for about 3 seconds, then drops
- this cycle continues for about 5 min until I am out of the neighborhood, then all is good

The relationship between speed and IACV actuation has me interested. Clearly, as long as the car is moving and in neutral the RPMs are 2,500+, stop and they fall. This has me thinking there is some real confusion in the ECM. Dealer can reflash for $120 and I am considering this my best option. If I pick up a used one it will need to be reprogrammed for the immobilizer key, correct? Any thoughts on just unplugging the IACV which seems to be getting wild orders?
Thanks again.