How to change Spark plugs (tuneup) for 2007 CRV
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Thread: How to change Spark plugs (tuneup) for 2007 CRV

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    How to change Spark plugs (tuneup) for 2007 CRV

    anyone know any links or pics or vids on how to change the Spark plugs for a 2007 or older?? I've searched on youtube and was only able to find a 2003 change.

    Any suggestions or other links is greatly appreciated. From the research I've done so far, it seems like the preferred plugs are: NGK (6994) IZFR6K-11 Iridium Spark Plug over the Bosch plugs. Also based on my findings, I only need to change the plugs and nothing else, like wires...I may be wrong on that.

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Are you doing this pro-actively?; do you have some symptoms; or did you get the MM code?

    Changing the plugs shouldn't be difficult. I'd get the plugs from a Honda dealer (you can buy online if you are concerned about the best cost but for something you'll do every 5 years...) that way they will be pre-gapped correctly. You don't want to regap or you might crack the tip.

    Use some anti-seize and torque is 13ft-lbs.

    As for wires, etc. Inspect them. See cracks, melted spots, loose at cap? Replace. Otherwise, I'd keep them.

  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psyman42 View Post
    it seems like the preferred plugs are: NGK (6994) IZFR6K-11 Iridium Spark Plug over the Bosch plugs. Also based on my findings, I only need to change the plugs and nothing else, like wires...I may be wrong on that.
    There are no wires to inspect, it's a coil-on-plug ignition. I'd inspect the coils when you pull them off, but chances are they're good. Use the iridium plugs listed in your manual they'll last for minimum 100,000 miles. I'm pretty sure the 03 and 07 spark plug replacement procedure is identical since they both use variant of the K24 engine. You can put a light amount of anti-seize on the threads if you want to, but according to NGK it's not necessary with their iridium plugs... I didn't use anti-seize, I plan on inspecting the plugs in another 40k miles, I let you know if they're stuck when I do .

  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jreagan View Post
    Are you doing this pro-actively?; do you have some symptoms; or did you get the MM code?

    Changing the plugs shouldn't be difficult. I'd get the plugs from a Honda dealer (you can buy online if you are concerned about the best cost but for something you'll do every 5 years...) that way they will be pre-gapped correctly. You don't want to regap or you might crack the tip.
    This is a pro-active maintanence on my part, my CRV is a 2007 with 79,000 miles on it. No MM code popped up and the only symptom I feel like its having is declining 1-3 MPG

    After looking up online on which plugs to buy, basically between Bosch and NGK, I went with these:
    http://www.amazon.com/NGK-IZFR6K-11-.../dp/B000GZAUQ8
    Found them at Autozone for $10 each and also has a $10 mail in rebate. These are the same ones that are sold by Handa as well so I'm confident in these. Also am assuming and hoping they are the correct gap size just because I haven't read anything about people messing with the gap size after they purchased these.

    Quote Originally Posted by thud105 View Post
    There are no wires to inspect, it's a coil-on-plug ignition. I'd inspect the coils when you pull them off, but chances are they're good. Use the iridium plugs listed in your manual they'll last for minimum 100,000 miles. I'm pretty sure the 03 and 07 spark plug replacement procedure is identical since they both use variant of the K24 engine. You can put a light amount of anti-seize on the threads if you want to, but according to NGK it's not necessary with their iridium plugs... I didn't use anti-seize, I plan on inspecting the plugs in another 40k miles, I let you know if they're stuck when I do .
    thanks for the tip on the engine similarity through the years, I did notice the 03 and 07 engine looked very similar. Someone did mention to not use anti-seize because its not neccessary AND the anti-seize can cause you to overtighten the spark plug causing damage to it due to the anti-seize not making the spark plug feel tight.

    how many miles were you at when you replaced your spark plugs?

    Is the procedure to change spark plugs really simple as:
    1.remove cover
    2.pull out coil
    3.unscrew spark plug
    4.screw in new plug
    5.put coil and cover back on
    ???????

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psyman42 View Post

    Is the procedure to change spark plugs really simple as:
    1.remove cover
    2.pull out coil
    3.unscrew spark plug
    4.screw in new plug
    5.put coil and cover back on
    ???????
    Yes it is. I did mine at 98K, proactive maintenance. I also picked up a plug socket with a small magnet in the top that makes it easy to remove and replace the plugs without damaging them. I had one with a rubber boot inside that kept slipping out and staying on the plug. RPITA. You will have to unbolt the coils and unclip the wire harness to them to get them out of the way. I did them one at a time so the coils stayed with their respective cylinder.

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    crv|oc Rank: Freshman
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  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psyman42 View Post
    Tum-Spark-Plug/dp/B000GZAUQ8[/url]
    NGK-IZFR6K-11-Iridid hoping they are the correct gap size just because I haven't read anything about people messing with the gap size after they purchased these.

    Someone did mention to not use anti-seize because its not neccessary AND the anti-seize can cause you to overtighten the spark plug causing damage to it due to the anti-seize not making the spark plug feel tight.

    how many miles were you at when you replaced your spark plugs?
    Use NGK, they're the OEM plug. They come "pre-gaped", but I'd double check them with a gap tool, mine were correct out of the box, but I found one on my wife's Toyota that was out of spec. I changed my plugs around 110,000 miles.

    NGK says not to use anti-seize on their iridium plugs because they already have a metallic (trivalent) coating on the threads that acts as the anti-seize. That makes additional application of the anti-seize paste unnecessary. Yes, the anti-seize can lubricate the threads and cause you to over tighten if you're not careful, so don't bother. Your procedure for changing plugs looks good, once you get in there, it's pretty easy to figure out how it goes together. The coil has a little electrical connector that has to be disconnected, but after that you just pull it straight out. I'd recommend hand tightening the new plug, then using a torque wrench to set the proper torque (torque specs are very important for fasteners, but really important for spark plugs). Good luck!

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    The 2007 service manual says to use anti-seize.

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  10. #9
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    NGK (or another type), I remember NGK since that's what I used
    This seems to be mentioned in the 03 Users manual

    It came with some anti-seize, which you apply to the thread; and one supposes to apply some di-elec (spelling...) inside the rubber tube

    HTH

  11. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Quote Originally Posted by jreagan View Post
    The 2007 service manual says to use anti-seize.

    Attachment 7149
    This is still interesting. That's the part of the manual for inspecting plugs and putting them back in. The NKG guide says not to use anti-seize on new plugs. To me that says when putting in new plugs, don't use the anti-sieze. But, that's the only place in the manual where they discuss replacement so that would say to use anti-seize. More Honda confusion...

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