Power Steering Fluid Change
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Thread: Power Steering Fluid Change

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Power Steering Fluid Change

    My 04 EX is nearing 65K miles and I am getting ready to change the fluids. I am not changing the antifreeze since the manual indicates that it is good for 10 years. But I am preparing to replace the Manual Transmission/Front Differential Fluid, Rear Differential Fluid, Brake Fluid, and Power Steering Fluids.

    Does anyone think that it is really necessary to replace the Power Steering Fluid at 65K miles? Also, is there an obvious way to drain the fluid?

    Thanks!

    Just for info, the Honda Brake Fluid and Power Steering Fluid are only sold in 12 ounce bottles.

    Honda Antifreeze $10.55 / Gal
    Honda Brake Fluid $3.36 / 12 oz
    Honda Power Steering Fluid $2.46 / 12 oz
    Honda Manual Transmission Fluid $4.32 / Qt
    Honda Dual Pump Fluid $7.30 / Qt
    Last edited by PowerSmith; 03-05-2008 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Include "$" symbols

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Our 04 is at 65k miles and I have been waiting for ?who knows? to change the power steering fluid as well. It is something that should be done for long term reliability. Glad to see you are not one of those opposed to changing fluids as a part of normal maintenance.
    99 V 151k miles, 04 V 62k miles - Both red, of course.

  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore Honda Tech's Avatar
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    A: I would not, ever, rely on printed information as the chief determining factor regarding fluid change intervals, and the printed service recommendations do state that fluid levels and conditions should be routinely inspected - with the implication that if the observed condition would suggest that service / replacement was appropriate, it would be performed regardless of what was listed on a minimum recommended service schedule.
    If a person wishes to wait 10 years before replacing a fluid as inexpensive as coolant/antifreeze because the manual "indicates that it is good for ten years" I say, more power to them. But they should test and inspect the coolant/antifreeze regularly.

    B:The power steering fluid has no recommended replacement interval, although it too should be inspected and maintained at the appropriate level. There are after-market chemical and fluid companies that are pushing power steering fluid flushes as routine maintenance. It is a very effective way to separate more money from a customer without any guarantee that the system will last longer or provide better functionality. The only thing that can be stated as a "real" benefit is that, if the fluid is replaced, it will look cleaner than the old fluid. If replacing the fluid makes you feel better, have at it. If you're worried that not replacing it will have a significant and verifiable negative effect, or that replacing the fluid will increase the life and performance of the system, I have gathered no empirical evidence within the last 1/4 century to support any greater benefit to replacing the P/S fluid other than it will be cleaner.
    Success is 99% failure
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    Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
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  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Fluid Change

    Thanks for the info. I suppose that changing fluids can be looked at many ways and that testing would give the best indication due to wear or degradation. Also, cost vs. difficulty and benefit should be included as well.

    As far as testing the engine coolant, do you recommend using the device that determines the freezing temperature? Also, does anyone know why the Honda coolant can go for 10 years? Has there been some kind of change in fluid additives or was it never really necessary to change every 3 years?

    In my case, I am going to somewhat flush the brake system fluid since I am changing the front brake pads. I was sort of thinking about changing the fluid in the clutch actuator too. But, maybe that could wait until the day I need a clutch.

    Also, any tips on changing out the front brake pads would be helpful. I will try to keep the bleed valve at the caliper open when I push the pistons back in so that dirty fluid is not back flushed into the ABS unit. Also, when bleeding the system, I will take care at the reservoir so that air does not enter. I have heard that bleeding air from the ABS unit is difficult.

    Although I do not notice any difficulty shifting the 5-speed transmission, for some reason, I expect that I will detect smoother shifting and operation after I change the fluid.

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Junior
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerSmith View Post
    I will try to keep the bleed valve at the caliper open when I push the pistons back in so that dirty fluid is not back flushed into the ABS unit. Also, when bleeding the system, I will take care at the reservoir so that air does not enter. I have heard that bleeding air from the ABS unit is difficult.

    Although I do not notice any difficulty shifting the 5-speed transmission, for some reason, I expect that I will detect smoother shifting and operation after I change the fluid.
    If you open the bleed screw while pushing the pistons back, be careful to close it before you reach the end of the piston stroke and preferably while you are pushing it back. You don't really have to do it this way. If the brake fluid is dirty at the caliper, it's probably dirty in the rest of the system already so pushing dirty fluid back through the system is a non issue.

    You can always change out dirty/old brake fluid by bleeding the system when your done changing the pads.

    Do the transmission oil change. I have just been reading another thread (2004 Manual Transmission Troubles) and although I have trouble believing that oil change interval had anything to do with that failure, a change at 65k couldn't hurt. I did mine at 15k just to make myself feel better.

  7. #6
    Super Moderator Carbuff2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerSmith View Post
    Also, does anyone know why the Honda coolant can go for 10 years? Has there been some kind of change in fluid additives or was it never really necessary to change every 3 years?
    The Blue Honda Coolant is an HOAT type, and as such contains no silicates. It WILL last a lot longer than the traditional Green coolant.

    On my '06 V, the coolant change interval is 6 years or 120K miles.
    Atwell "Buff" Haines
    '06 AWD CR-V, 5 speed MT!
    '07 Fit Sport, 5 speed MT!
    North NJ

    " I spent most of my money on cars, girls and drink. I squandered the rest"
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  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    What's this going to cost at the dealer in Cincinnati, Ohio?

    1. Change brake fluid
    2. Change transmission fluid
    3. Change rear differential fluid
    4. Change power steering fluid
    5. What other codes come up at 60,000 miles?

    I have a 2008 EX CRV 4WD with 60,000 miles

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Freshman aggreX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flags6262 View Post
    1. Change brake fluid-----------------99.95
    2. Change transmission fluid----------49.95
    3. Change rear differential fluid-------99.95
    4. Change power steering fluid--------84.95
    ///////////ymmv
    04 Pilot 05 CRV

  10. #9
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Here's some of today's more pathetic prices from San Jose:
    Change steering fluid (1 bottle for $2.42): $180.
    Change tranny fluid: 199 (with a vac which is not ideal for our cars.

    Just FYI:
    Cabin and air filter (parts cost is less than 30 combined): $180
    Front brake pads (maybe includes rotor machining but definitely not replacement): $335
    Rear brake pads: $242

    Even the service advisor agreed the pricing on the filters and steer fluid were ludicrous. Plus, we all know that there is no service interval on steering fluid.

    Brake pads were at 4mm all around (nice work Honda). I was told going down do 3mm is not an issue and everything should be changed out at 2. I like replacing rotors. I purchased EBC OE rotors for 150 all around (price beater speciall...). Everything else is stock from HAndA -- pads, filters, and some knick knacks were 150. Could have machined the rotors but now I'll have an extra set which I can have machined and ready for next time if I want. New rotors were 90 (rear) and 60 (front) for pairs. Machining (which means you need another car and have to wait for the one overburdened person at Autozone to have time to spend something like an hour on your rotors...) costs 60 bucks.

    The service writer -- who is really nice -- pointed out that our tires had "dry rot" (5 year old Michelins w/ 53K and 60K warranty). We went back to America's tire and they gave us 25% off new tires which -- for the same tires -- were also $250 cheaper than they were 5 years ago.

    Just another customer data point... Anyone with great secret tips on changing the brake parts besides what's in the workshop manual is someone I'd love to hear back from.

  11. #10
    Super Moderator Carbuff2's Avatar
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    Secret tips:

    - Have an Impact Driver to remove the JIS screws (look like Phillips) holding the rotors on. If you can't get them off, drill the heads off. (You don't need the screws anymore, anyway)

    - Your new pads should fit loose ('falling out' loose) in their SS retainers top & bottom. If tight, remove the stainless guides and file/sand them (rust blooms underneath).

    - Don't mix up the top & bottom Slider Pins or SS guides (they are different). PACK the sliders with synthetic brake grease.

    BTW good price on the rotors!
    Atwell "Buff" Haines
    '06 AWD CR-V, 5 speed MT!
    '07 Fit Sport, 5 speed MT!
    North NJ

    " I spent most of my money on cars, girls and drink. I squandered the rest"
    - George Best.



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