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Ball Joints/Suspension issues

68K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  magnumpii 
#1 ·
Hi all new to the forum. I'm a VW man and have a couple of questions about my wife's 98 CRV.

So there's a rattle coming from the front end any time you go over a small bump. Everything's pretty tight, car drives, tracks and brakes just fine and all the bushings look fine. There is a little weeping of grease from the ball joints it really isn't all that bad but it's as good a place as any to figure out where the rattle's coming from.

Well the ball joints look like a pain in the butt to change. Has anybody any tips or suggestions on how to do this with regular tools? Also as a follow up is there a recommended replacement interval for the lower control arms? My assumption is that the noise is from the lower ball joints but if anyone has any better ideas/suggestions or advice it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!
 
#2 ·
Unless you can feel 'play' in the ball joints, odds are they are not the source of your noise.

By far the most common noise source is the front sway bar frame bushings, or the sway bar links.

If it's a creaking / popping noise, I'd suspect links. If it's a thumping / rattling noise I'd suspect bushings.

Not too hard (depending on corrosion) to remove the caps from the frame bushings.

With the bushing caps removed, the sway bar will be hanging from the links, (and laying on top of the exhaust) so work each end around by hand and feel / listen for noise coming from the links.

Pull the rubber off the sway bar (rubber and caps are directional, so pay attention) wrap a little electrical tape around the sway bar and put it back together - if the noise is affected by this, you'll know what to replace.

The bushings are actually pretty cheap, so if you don't want to spend the time messing with tape and such, just replace the bushings to begin with.
 
#7 ·
By far the most common noise source is the front sway bar frame bushings, or the sway bar links.

If it's a creaking / popping noise, I'd suspect links. If it's a thumping / rattling noise I'd suspect bushings.

Not too hard (depending on corrosion) to remove the caps from the frame bushings.

With the bushing caps removed, the sway bar will be hanging from the links, (and laying on top of the exhaust) so work each end around by hand and feel / listen for noise coming from the links.

Pull the rubber off the sway bar (rubber and caps are directional, so pay attention) wrap a little electrical tape around the sway bar and put it back together - if the noise is affected by this, you'll know what to replace.

The bushings are actually pretty cheap, so if you don't want to spend the time messing with tape and such, just replace the bushings to begin with.
x2, good advice.
 
#3 ·
Thanks, I think the bushings are only $14 so I'll probably throw a pair in and see how that works. I'm still curious about replacing the ball joints though as I suspect that I'll need to replace them within the next 15K or so (currently 125K on ODO) I've read that there is a Honda tool to do this with. Is this readily available online or does anybody have an alternative soloution?

Thanks.....
 
#4 · (Edited)
The only "Honda" ball joint tool, that I am aware of, is designed to separate the lower ball joint from the lower arm without damaging the ball joint or dust boot in the process. (and it can cause damage to the ball joint anyway). If you are replacing a ball joint, it would be a moot point to try and obtain the tool - you could use a pickle-fork to separate the joint from the arm. The upper ball joint is replaced with the entire upper control arm - too dicey to try and remove and then press in a new ball joint. The upper arm is stamped steel and would easily be deformed if you attempted to just replace the upper joint.

FWIW, I've replaced a number of worn upper ball joints (upper arms) on pre-02 CRVs, but am scratching my head trying to remember having replaced a worn out lower ball joint on these models. Pretty common on the Accord, not so much on the others.
 
#6 ·
FYI: had upper ball joints replaced (and front sway bar links) at 173K on my '01. Started at dealer for something else and told these were needed. Not much "shake" in them, however. So I took it to independent (not Japanese-oriented) repair shop where the diagnosis was sway bar links but ball joints o.k.

So now I know less about the ball joints than I did before. Third shop (Japanese oriented) agrees with dealer that upper ball joints need replacing, too. Upper ball joints, front sway bar links done by them.

As two of the three also concurred that while rear bushings were going to need replacement eventually, they are a pain in the rear to do.

Note, except for the 'clunk' in the rear, there was no obvious symptom of front suspension problems. Tires wearing fine, tracking straight, no odd noises, etc.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Sway Bar Link broken

I have a 2001 CRV. About 6 months ago, Canadian Tire technitian suggested me to replace both lower ball joints. I accepted the suggestion and got both replaced. Recently, I found the sway bar link on both sides are broken. I brought my CRV back to the shop. They told me they did not touch the sway bar link at all. They also explained that there is no need to disconnect sway bar link for replacing ball joint.

Can any one tell me what could potentially cause both sway bar link broken? Is it true that replacing lower ball joint does not need to disconnect sway bar link?

Thanks.
 
#9 ·
I have a 2001 CRV. About 6 months ago, Canadian Tire technitian suggested me to replace both lower ball joints. I accepted the suggestion and got both replaced. Recently, I found the sway bar link on both sides are broken. I brought my CRV back to the shop. They told me they did not touch the sway bar link at all. They also explained that there is no need to disconnect sway bar link for replacing ball joint.

Can any one tell me what could potentially cause both sway bar link broken? Is it true that replacing lower ball joint does not need to disconnect sway bar link?

Thanks.
They are correct. The links are not touched at at when the lower ball joints are replaced.

The links are almost 10 years old. If they have not already been replaced once you are lucky they lasted that long.
 
#10 ·
check your inner tie rod (AKA inner ball sockets) also. i've been hearing a noise in the front of mine too, turns out my inner tie rod ends are loose letting them make clunking noises sometimes. this week i'm installing new MOOG parts, then straight to the allignment shop.
 
#13 ·
Inner Tie Rods



How did you replace the inner tie rods? I have the service manual and their explanation is rather lengthy, requiring removal of exhaust system, engine mounts, cradle, steering wheel and link, rack, etc. I see there's an Inner Tie Rod Tool (Lisle 45750) that looks like it might make this a simple task. The hard part is how to crimp on the new lock washer with the rack in place and fit the new boot band. Did you use loctite blue threadlocker?
 
#11 ·
Lite Bumping / Rattling Noise Front Suspension

I've had a lite rattling noise in the front suspension of my 2000 CR-V. I took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the struts (>$600). No difference. I took it to an aftermarket shop and they replaced the sway bar bushings ($300). The noise was gone... for a couple of weeks. I decided to tackle the noise myself. After putting my hands on all suspension components and really not finding any slack, I figured since the sway bar bushing replacement made a difference for a couple of weeks I would start with the swaybar end links. Purchased end links off Ebay for $21 delivered to my house. Very easy to replace the links, a bit tedious with very little room to work. NOISE GONE! Hope this helps someone in the future.
 
#14 ·
You have to take off wheels, a ball joint remover or have a hammer with you; with a 17mm tool remove hex nut of the outer tie rod, then [ use the hammer or ball joint remover ]; loose the other end of outer tie rod which is next to inner tie rod; [make a mark on the inner tie rod this will allow you install the new inner tie rod in the same position that was before ] and take off that tie rod. Take out the boot now;

Ready to remove inner tie rod now with probably a 14mm and a 19mm on the steering rack end will do the work.

Now, you can install the new inner tie rod first [ do the same mark position that the old one has ], once installed, take the outer tie rod end on the mark; and ready to go... doing the same steps on both sides and have the car on the aligment shop quickly.

Loctite threadlocker will make it safe, just don't abuse of it.

Good luck
 
#15 · (Edited)
anti roll/sway bar links

Hi I've just changed my roll bar link bars, quite easy, but when i had driven the car after completion i noticed that the right hand link where it joins the roll bar was sort off pointing upwards. Left hand link has roughly stayed straight. Is this how they are? Or have i done something wrong?



Many thanks Stuart
 
#17 ·
That's how mine looked. Trouble was after about a thousand miles I started to get a clunk. Changed a rear drop link and all the bushes, eventually removed the new right hand drop link, it felt very tight so I squirted gerease inside the rubber boot and put it back on the other way up. Didn't look like there's a right or wrong way up but what the heck. Anyway, so far all quite again, infact with both sets of roll bar bushes changed as well the car is as quiet as it was when new.
 
#19 ·
After asking about the year on the other thread, I see it's a new car !! Just so we get this straight, you bought a new CR-V from a dealer(?) and drove it out the door happy as a clam. Now, time has passed and for some reason, you decide to put it on a hoist and "inspect" it ?? Why - problems ?? Oil change ?? How do you know the welds you see aren't factory ?? Please elaborate on the situation - I'm curious. Craig
 
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