Black Pearl's 2007 Rear Differential Fluid Change Photo Essay
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Thread: Black Pearl's 2007 Rear Differential Fluid Change Photo Essay

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Black Pearl's 2007 Rear Differential Fluid Change Photo Essay

    Temporary Edit: New Copy


    DISCLAIMER: Alas the fine print, except it is not fine because I want you to actually read it. Use these instructions at your own risk! Read through the instructions to the end before starting any work. If there is any area that you do not understand or feel is beyond your competence, do not perform this work. You assume all responsibility for the proper and safe maintenance of your vehicle.

    APPLICABILITY: The specific information in this procedure is applicable only to the 2007 US model CRV with a 2.4 liter gasoline engine with 4WD. The method should generally be applicable to any 4WD CR-V, but specific details such as the size and location of the plugs and the capacity of the fluid may differ.

    The rear differential fluid should be changed when the maintenance minder displays a sub code 6. In photo 1 below, B 16 (red arrow) is displayed. This means that the tasks in maintenance schedule B should be performed but also subcode 1 (rotate tires) and subcode 6 (change the rear differential fluid). From reports of various club members, it appears as though the subcode 6 will appear between 15,000 and 20,000 miles on the second oil change.

    This procedure is meant only for those owners who are changing their fluid due to the normal maintenance schedule. If your vehicle is making noise from the rear end in tight turns, especially if it is still under warranty, you should return the vehicle to your dealer and have the problem properly documented.

    There are two TSBs regarding noise from the rear differential on the 07 CR-V.

    http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-021.PDF

    http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF


    If these TSBs apply to your vehicle, return the vehicle to the dealer for the proper service and warranty documentation.

    To meet the minimum requirement of the service schedule, you should drain and refill the rear differential one time. TSB 07-024 does a 2X drain and refill with burnishing after the first and second refill—but this TSB is for rear differentials that have made noise. For a rear differential that has not made noise, a single drain and refill is all that is necessary. Again… if your rear differential is making noise, you should return the vehicle to the dealer and have it properly serviced to protect your warranty. This procedure is only for normal scheduled rear differential fluid changes.

    Credit: I would like to thank ApriliaGuy from the Element Owner’s Club for not only developing the method used here but being kind enough to share it with the Honda on line community. ApriliaGuy’s EOC post employing photographs was the inspiration for this post and several other how to posts. Further I would like to thank Lizzurd for linking ApriliaGuy’s post to the CRV-OC.


    Honda Element Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - Differential Fluid Change Info



    Supplies Required: (Photo 2) (Available at your dealer or HandA)

    A) 2 Quarts of Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (Capacity of the 2007 is 1.3 quarts)

    B) 2 Crush Washers, 20 mm, Honda Part Number 94109 – 20000

    Caution! You must use Honda Dual Pump Fluid II. Using any other fluid will result in the destruction of the clutch plates in the rear differential. (Photo 3)

    Tools Required: (Photo 2)

    A) 3/8" ratchet

    B) 3/8" extension 3” long (optional)

    C) collection pan – big enough to hold 1.3 quarts (I cut down a windshield washer fluid jug, milk jugs are too flimsy)

    D) rags or paper towels

    E) 5/8" Outside Diameter Hose 10’ long Weber brand available at Lowes.

    F) Funnel and hose clamp also available at Lowes (Items E & F were $6.00 total)

    G) Scotch Bright or a pan scrubber


    Time Required: 30 to 45 minutes


    Procedure:

    Step 1. Change into some grubby clothes. To protect your skin from contact with the fluid, wear oil resistant gloves.

    Step 2. Shut off your engine, make sure the car is in park and the brake is set.

    Step 3. Collect your supplies and tools. You don't need to jack the car up. It is a little harder without the car elevated, but it is much safer. Do not jack up your car unless you are very knowledgeable on how to raise the car and support it safely.

    Step 4. (Photo 4). Gather your drain pan, ratchet, 3” extension, and paper towels. Let’s take a peek in the nether regions and see what we are getting into. Photo 4 shows the rear differential and the locations of the fill and drain plugs. Each plug has a square 3/8” hole that matches the square drive of a 3/8” drive ratchet. We will use a short extension to get the ratchet head out away from the housing. Personally I hate that “righty tighty lefty loosey” nonsense. Before you climb under, set the ratchet so that it turns the extension in the counter-clockwise direction, and ratchets in the clockwise direction. Under the car, facing the wrong way, it is easy to get it backwards.

    Step 5. (Photo 5) Take a piece of Scotch Bright or a pan scour pad and clean the areas around each plug. The goal is not to make it shiny, but to knock off the loose crud so that it won’t end up in your differential.

    Caution! If you have driven the vehicle in the past few minutes, feel the differential housing. If it feels hot to the touch, let the differential cool some more before working on it.

    Step 6. (Photo 6) OK, now the fun starts. I was totally amazed at how tight both plugs were. Make sure your ratchet is set to spin the extension Counter Clockwise and ratchet in the Clockwise direction. You really don’t want to tighten this plug. We are going to loosen the fill plug first. Why? There have been reports of being able to get the drain plug out but not the fill…a bit of a sticky wicket one would think. Alright, put the square end of the extension into the plug. Try to pay some attention to where your knuckles will end up when the plug breaks loose. Pusssshhh! Agggghhhh! Crack! Sounds like a gun going off. Use one of the paper towels to wipe up the blood from your knuckles. Don’t take the plug out, just loosen it.

    Continued in the next post.

    EDIT 2-12-09 Added "Outside Diameter" in step E under Required Tools. Thanks SniperD for pointing out my omission.
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    Last edited by Black Pearl; 05-04-2009 at 09:09 PM.
    The Black Pearl . . . 2007 EX, 4WD, 5AT, Nighthawk Black Pearl

    Being Irish he had an abiding sense of tragedy which sustained him through temporary periods of joy. W. B. Yeats

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts." Bertrand Russell

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Changing Rear Differential Fluid Part 2

    Continued From The Above Post

    Step 7. (Photo 7) Ok, same thing on the drain, except have your drain pan ready. Pusssshhhh! Crack again.

    Step 8. (Photo 8) Thread the plug out and drain the oil into your drain pan.

    Step 9. (Photo 9) While the fluid is draining, clean up the drain plug and replace the crush washer.

    Step 10 (Photo 10) Reinstall the drain plug with the new crush washer and tighten the plug to 35 foot-pounds of torque.

    Step 11 (Photo 11a & 11b) The plastic fill hose I bought was pre-cut to 10 feet which is a bit long. I cut it down to somewhere between 6 and 7 feet long. From the exterior of the rear wheel on the passenger side, I could easily see the fill plug at about 11 oclock. I passed the hose right through the wheel and strung it along to the fill plug. It passed near the exhaust pipe, which should be cool. (photo 11a magenta lines) The 5/8" Outside Diameter makes a nice fit into the fill hole (photo 11b).

    Continued next post.
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  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Changing Rear Differential Fluid Part 3

    Continued from previous post.

    Step 12 (Photo 12 a & 12b) When you open your bottle of Genuine Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (the only thing you can use), be sure to remove all of the foil seal. While her ladyship, the lovely Dame Black Pearl provided precision pouring (photo 12 a), I manned the nether regions to keep an eye on the progress (photo 12 b). Pour in the entire first quart. Then slowly add the 0.3 (9.6 ounces) of the second quart. Somewhere between 8 to 10 ounces, it started to run out of the fill hole.

    Step 13 Place a new crush washer on the fill plug (photo 13 a). When the fluid runs out the fill hole, pull out the fill hose and re-install the fill plug with the new crush washer. Torque the plug to 35 ft-lbs. (photo 13 b). Remove the fill hose from the nether regions of your V. Use care not to slop fluid on the exhaust pipe or rear brake disk and calipers.

    Step 14 Tightly recap the unused portion of remaining second quart. Drain the residual oil from your fill hose and store it in plastic bag so it doesn’t get dirty. Clean up the mess. Recycle the fluid. If your other scheduled services are done, reset the Maintenance Minder. (Photo 14) Record the mileage and date in your maintenance records. Keep your receipts to protect your warranty.

    Photo 15: The used oil. Hmmmm! Not the greatest looking stuff. It didn’t smell bad. I checked the bottom of the pan and there was no particulate. This oil has 16,000 miles. Suburban driving, no off road, no immersions in water, and a little winter action but not excessive. I have had no noise problems.
    Attached Images Attached Images       
    The Black Pearl . . . 2007 EX, 4WD, 5AT, Nighthawk Black Pearl

    Being Irish he had an abiding sense of tragedy which sustained him through temporary periods of joy. W. B. Yeats

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts." Bertrand Russell

  5. #4
    Everything in Moderation Carbuff2's Avatar
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    My biggest problem with the fill-with-a-tube procedure is,

    there is always some fluid in the tube because it stays in the low areas....then when the tube is withdrawn it spills out (can't hold it in as I pull the tube past the wheel)

    On one DPF change I tried a cheap pump...too cheap I guess because the tubes fell out of THAT and made a mess too!

    Atwell "Pig-Pen" Haines
    '06V
    NJ

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Cat Litter

    Like changing oil, messes (and bloody knuckles) are part of the bonding process. When I filled mine, I wisely removed the full drain pan to avoid knocking it over. Dame Black Pearl was doing the pouring, but alas she was shooting for the mystical 1/3 quart. Somewhere before 10 oz it started running out. Its amazing how big of a splotch an ounce of oil makes.
    The Black Pearl . . . 2007 EX, 4WD, 5AT, Nighthawk Black Pearl

    Being Irish he had an abiding sense of tragedy which sustained him through temporary periods of joy. W. B. Yeats

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts." Bertrand Russell

  7. #6
    crv|oc Rank: Freshman
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    Thanks for the time and effort you put in your post Black Pearl. It is well done .

  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Freshman
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    Thumbs up Invaluable Photo Essay

    Fantastic Information Black Pearl.

    Your Step-by-Step Photo Essays are the best on the web!

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Do the maintenance minders reset themselves? I have to reset my 04 Odyssey and wonder what I have to do when it comes time to do my oil in my 08.

    Sean

  10. #9
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    MMI Must Be Reset

    The MMI must be reset. There is a procedure in the owners manual and if you follow it to the T and try it about 5 times, it will reset. At least it does for me (after 5 tries). I think the big thing is to do the steps fairly quickly. If you stop to read what to do next, the system goes out of reset mode.
    The Black Pearl . . . 2007 EX, 4WD, 5AT, Nighthawk Black Pearl

    Being Irish he had an abiding sense of tragedy which sustained him through temporary periods of joy. W. B. Yeats

    "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts." Bertrand Russell

  11. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Different Tool

    Last night I changed the dual pump fluid on our '07 V and found it to be pretty straight forward thanks to the posts in here. I never had a noise from the rear diff, but an older, wiser person once told me that "oil is cheap". So at 28,982, out with the old and in with the new. One thing I tried that seemed to work well is the fill device I had laying around for whatever reason. I think it was purchased at autozone for a couple of bucks like 3 years ago, but it worked well. You can screw it onto the plastic container of fluid and have it turned off so no fluid will come out until the yellow end is turned 1/4 turn. There is enough room to have the plastic container lay fairly flat, but still being above the level of the fill hole. Once set, a 1/4 turn and let it flow. One other thing I did was pour the .3 quart in the empty container from the full one and it just barely started to run out the fill hole when done. Keep the drain pan under your work area and not a drop spilled.
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