2004 CRV Serpentine belt photos
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Thread: 2004 CRV Serpentine belt photos

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    2004 CRV Serpentine belt photos

    So finally I got my belt removed and replaced. To all who say this is an easy job I humbly disagree. I tried using the harbor freight serpentine tool but it does not fit into the tight spot.
    What ended up working for me was moving the steering fluid reservoir (no need to disconnect any piping) and a 9/16 (same as 14mm) wrench with another wrench as leverage.
    you need to be careful not to damage the steel pipes (which I guess are ABS) Also remember that the new belt will require more de-tensioning of the tensioner pulley compared to when removing the old belt.
    Again, it's a major hassle including removing the bottom splash shield etc for next time I'll try and find a long shaft 9/16 or paying an hour labor for local mechanic.

    Here are some pictures:




    Last edited by sterlinggold; 05-04-2012 at 07:58 PM.

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    2004 CRV Serpentine belt photos

    Thanks for posting the photos. I am thinking of replacing my belt also and your description leads me to start welding some old tools together to make one that will fit and work. I guess the biggest danger is damaging the ABS pipes, looks like no room for movement. Would it be worth sacrificing a ratcheting box end wrench to form a better tool (i.e., welding an extension of some sort on to it)? Thanks,
    John

  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Yes, it would be worth to sacrifice a box wrench to create a decent tool for removing the serpentine belt. I think that none of the commercially available tools fit in that tight space, unless you remove some component of the power steering and those tools cost anywhere from $30 to $70.

  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Freshman
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    So what parts of the change did you find most difficult?

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajchien View Post
    So what parts of the change did you find most difficult?
    The hardest part was figuring out what works. I spent a lot of time under the car with the useless serpentine belt tool trying to follow the service manual diagram then disconnecting the PS fluid hose (big mistake), and also trying to fit the wrench without moving the PS reservoir (dropped the wrench hundreds of times)

    I just got a long handle wrench set from harbor freight http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=47067 for $14 which I'll try out and see if they are long enough to move the tensioner without removing reservoir, if so I'll post pictures.

    I looked for other alternative tools and they all were over $50 so I figured try these long handle wrenches or just go through the wrench extension mess again when need a new belt (hopefully 5 years or 90k from now) or if I'm lucky like Motorrad have a custom tool welded

  7. #6
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Quote Originally Posted by sterlinggold View Post
    ....and a 9/16 (same as 14mm).....
    Ah, no.



    9/16" and 14mm are not the same size - close, but not the same. 9/16" is slightly larger and to use this size tool on a 14mm bolt head risks damaging the fastener and/or the user if the tool slips. Not saying it can't be done, just saying it shouldn't be done if avoidable. Be careful.


    Quote Originally Posted by sterlinggold View Post
    To all who say this is an easy job I humbly disagree.
    Personally, I think the job sucks for the 18 minutes that warranty time pays.
    Success is 99% failure
    -Soichiro Honda

    Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
    -Winston Churchill

    Motorcycle Riding in West Virginia

  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Freshman
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    Quote Originally Posted by sterlinggold View Post
    The hardest part was figuring out what works. I spent a lot of time under the car with the useless serpentine belt tool trying to follow the service manual diagram then disconnecting the PS fluid hose (big mistake), and also trying to fit the wrench without moving the PS reservoir (dropped the wrench hundreds of times)

    I just got a long handle wrench set from harbor freight http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=47067 for $14 which I'll try out and see if they are long enough to move the tensioner without removing reservoir, if so I'll post pictures.

    I looked for other alternative tools and they all were over $50 so I figured try these long handle wrenches or just go through the wrench extension mess again when need a new belt (hopefully 5 years or 90k from now) or if I'm lucky like Motorrad have a custom tool welded
    So it seems that you really recommend getting the *right tool* for the job.

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajchien View Post
    So it seems that you really recommend getting the *right tool* for the job.
    Just wanted to update the thread about the long handle wrench set from HFT. I tried it today and it seem to work pretty well. Now that I know what needs to be done it took me less than 5 minutes to remove the PS reservoir and try it out. I was able to easily move the tentioner without a leverage wrench and there was no danger to the ABS pipes if the wrench slips. This is a 14mm metric that Honda_Tech mentioned as the proper size.

    Also notice how close the A/C hose is to the alternator pulley, it seem to have a slit as if it actually rubbed against that pulley, is this the way it should be?
    Last edited by sterlinggold; 05-04-2012 at 08:02 PM.

  10. #9
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Based on looking at the photos, do you think it would be worthwhile to also remove the engine mounting bracket (it has that grounding wire on it) to give you more room to work?
    It would seem the extra few minutes to remove it would make things less frustrating in the cramped spaces

  11. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Been looking at doing this recently, and this post is a life saver. Using your photos, writeup, and service manual it was not as bad as I thought. Took me about 45 minutes. Here are the steps:

    1) Remove belly pan.
    2) Turn wheel all the way to the right to allow access from right side. I also jacked the right front of the car up a bit so it was easier to access from underneath.
    3) Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the PS reservoir, then swing out of the way to allows the wrenches movement (had mine to the right side of the hood arm).
    4) used 14mm box end wrench on tensioner, with another helper wrench for leverage. Already had the long wrenches from HarborFreight, there is one near my house, and I've bought a lot of cheap specialty tools for use on my Audi.
    5) Pulled the belt off the PS pulley (topmost in front).
    6) Pulled the old belt out.
    7) Took the wrench out and swung the PS reservoir back in place so I could thread the new belt around everything.
    8)Threading the new belt around everything was not too difficult, this took the longest time. Used a very long screwdriver to help slide the belt into place in the tough to reach areas. Got everything threaded into place except for the last piece, the PS pulley.
    9) Swung the PS reservoir out of the way again to get the wrenches on the tensioner.
    10) Pulled forward on the wrenches to relieve the pressure and slipped the belt over the PS pulley. Belt is now on.
    11) Put the PS reservoir back in place and tightened the two 10mm bolts.
    12) Visually checked to see that the belt was aligned first, then clicked the key a few times (without starting) to make sure that a few revolutions were ok and all was aligned properly. Started the car and looked fine.
    13) Put the belly pan back on, and done.

    I do all work on my cars, unless it is something I truly don't have the tools/time for. The service manual shows to do things from the bottom, won't work. Very easy to do most everything from the top, really don't need any specialty tools for this one.
    Last edited by RonnieJ; 12-12-2009 at 12:29 PM.

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