Hi Jepalan

That plan sound pretty goood!!! I'm planning basically the same setup but I'm changing the headunit (my CRV don't comes with BT nor IMID). I too chose Polks for front and read. Any particular reason why you went with the Polk Audio DXi6500 instead of the db6501??
Can wait for the schematics and pinouts... please keep us posted.

 

What are you using for your Line-Out Converter? I ended up using the Scosche SLC4 but will be upgrading to an Audiocontrol unit soon. I think it will make for a cleaner sound.

 

mindol -
The only reason I went with the DXi's is because they were on sale at Crutchfield and cheaper than the DBs. Polk forum says they are supposed to be slightly better than DBs, but I had DBs in my old Subaru as was completely happy with them, I guess I'll see when I get them.

JB

 

elmortero -

To start, I am just using the speaker level inputs on the Boston amps, no LOC's - BUT I fully expect to be adding a JL clean sweep or similar processor eventually - I just couldn't afford it to start.

Jep

 

Here are the links to 2012 CRV audio wiring diagrams and connector pinouts that I am using to plan my project. I'm not sure how long these links will be active, so screen-shot any diagrams you need:

Audio/RES Wiring Diagram
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mc0NEdVl4VUt5MDQ

Component Locations
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mTVpvdDVXZ1MxZUU

Radio Connector Inputs/Outputs (you will need to scroll down to page 8 for non-navi radios)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mQy1IU0pUSUJwb0k

Stereo Amplifier Connector Inputs/Outputs (if equipped)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mRGs3TG5OTmtVZ0U

Auxiliary Jack Connector Inputs/Outputs (if equipped)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mc3VSdXB2bzNGOWM

USB Adapter Connector Inputs/Outputs (if equipped)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mU29aSTFuOXRlbFU

RES Controller and Screen Connector Inputs/Outputs
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mYmZQYXFMMVJtejA

DVD Player Connector Inputs/Outputs
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mS1YzcFBfMUZCdmM

Radio Removal Instructions:
http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST95-7802CH_web.pdf

Jep

 

Here are the links to 2012 CRV audio wiring diagrams and connector pinouts that I am using to plan my project. I'm not sure how long these links will be active, so screen-shot any diagrams you need:

Audio/RES Wiring Diagram
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mc0NEdVl4VUt5MDQ

Component Locations
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mTVpvdDVXZ1MxZUU

Radio Connector Inputs/Outputs (you will need to scroll down to page 8 for non-navi radios)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mQy1IU0pUSUJwb0k

Stereo Amplifier Connector Inputs/Outputs (if equipped)
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bys-c8aVt18mRGs3TG5OTmtVZ0U

Jep

Say me please, where I can find the installation and removal chart for:
STEREO AMPLIFIER
REARVIEW CAMERA
MULTI-INFORMATION DISPLAY UNIT
?

 

Jepalan

This is priceless!!!! Thanks a lot...
If the HU is to be replaced, i wonder if the non iMID display can be left to display just the clock. Also, is there an easy way to use the stock USB adapter as the input on a aftermarket HU?
I know is too much to ask but do you have the schematics for the steering wheel radio controls?

Thanks mate!!!

 

mindol -

For clarity, please let me know exactly which model CR-V you have: (LX, EX, or EX-L)
and which stock audio system you have:
1) iMid WITH NAV (i.e. EX-L with Nav),
2) iMid WITHOUT NAV but WITH the stock amp & sub (i.e. EX-L w/o Nav),
3) iMid WITHOUT NAV and WITHOUT amp/sub (i.e. EX w/o Nav)
4) Non-iMID Basic Stereo (i.e. some base and LX models)

Jep





,

 

For clarity, please let me know exactly which model CR-V you have: (LX, EX, or EX-L)
and which stock audio system you have:
1) iMid WITH NAV (i.e. EX-L with Nav),
2) iMid WITHOUT NAV but WITH the stock amp & sub (i.e. EX-L w/o Nav),
3) iMid WITHOUT NAV and WITHOUT amp/sub (i.e. EX w/o Nav)
4) Non-iMID Basic Stereo (i.e. some base and LX models)

I've got the EX-L Nav with the OEM Sub.

Like I did with my former EX-L Ridgeline, I changed out the Tweeters only, and it made a world of difference. The OEM Tweeters where so bad, that when you removed them, the stereo sounded the same without them.

Once I installed my Altec Lansing Tweeters, the system came alive ten fold.

Now it's only a 160 watt Total wattage system, so it's nowhere near as nice as the above setups, but just barely enough to be considered adequate!

 

Hi Jep... thanks for your reply

I have a Non-iMID Basic Stereo 2012 CRV... I understand these are not sold on the US. Even though i don't have iMID, i do have a central display (where iMID is located) that displays time and radio stations, etc.

 

My planned setup is as follows:

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BH
Front: Polk Audio DB6501
Rear: Polk Audio DB6501 (or Polk Audio DB651... still undecided on whether to go full range or component on rear stage)
Amp: Polk Audio PA660
Sub: 2 JL 10w0
Sub amp: JL 300W mono
Rear view camera: BOYO VTL375HD

I'm trying to keep the stock look as much as possible and thus would like keep using the USB and Aux jack on their current locations.

Thanks for any help!!

 

Mindol -
Sorry, I'm not ignoring your questions, I've been out of town for a week and just checked the forum. I will need to do some research on your head unit, but will try to provide some guidance within the week (my Crutchfield order arrived while I was gone and has me distracted at the moment).

 

Thanks a lot Jepelan.. I finally order the dash kit from metra and will order the polks components this week.. I'm planning to buy the metra ASWC universal steering wheel control.. Do you happen to know if it can actually work with our wheel controls?

 

OK - I got the Polk Dxi 6500 components in the front and rear doors. Ordered a JL Cleansweep for the amp install today. Hope to get the amps and sub in this weekend. Here is a sneak peak at the door speaker installs...

NEW TWEETER HOT-GLUED ONTO BACK OF FRONT DOOR 'WING':

LINING UP THE POLK ADAPTER RINGS - NOTE HOLE ALIGNMENT:

COMPLETED FRONT DOOR READY FOR BUTTONING UP - NOTE SPEAKER ROTATION:

CROSSOVER MOUNTED & WIRED IN REAR DOOR:

SURFACE MOUNT TWEETER IN REAR DOORS:

IMPORTANT: I recommend that you DO NOT use the Scosche Honda Speaker Adapter rings - they do not quite fit the 2012 CR-V. The top mount hole doesn't line up and the tabs that are meant to snap into the factory mount locations break off extremely easily (ask me how I know). The adapter rings that come with the POLK DXi speakers worked *perfectly* and are well built (although you have to drill three holes. Another problem with the Scosche adapters is that the speaker terminals are rotated to interfere with the narrow opening of the factory cutout and can short against the door.

 

OK - I got the Polk Dxi 6500 components in the front and rear doors. Ordered a JL Cleansweep for the amp install today. Hope to get the amps and sub in this weekend. Here is a sneak peak at the door speaker installs...

Very nice, although I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

1. What are pictures 1, 4, and 6?
2. What's that clear goop in picture 4?
3 What's that rectangular device in photos 2 and 3?
4. Do you have any photos of the stock speakers and how they compare in quality/build with the new ones you put in?
5. Do the EX and EX-L have the exact same stock audio system? In other words is mine like yours?

Thanks!

 

Sorry for the confusion - was in a hurry to post. I added LABELS to each photo above that should answer most of your questions. I took 40 pictures while doing the doors, including details on the factory speakers - I will try to find time to do a better DIY.

The EX and EX-L door speakers and install process should be the same. The head units and wiring harnesses are slightly different. I will post connector pins showing differences later.

I was surprised to find the factory speakers were not paper. They had clear-ish mylar cones and fiber-mesh surrounds. Although the magnets were tiny and overall they are feather light.

It is important to note that the stock head unit is not well matched to heavy duty aftermarket speakers - the Polks have incredibly clear mids and highs but the bass is worse with just the factory head driving them. I knew this from past Honda projects - which is why I will be installing the JL Cleansweep and aftermarket amps.

I do not recommend only changing speakers. If you want to keep head unit, get a JL Cleansweep or Audiocontrol LCQ-1 and amps, or get a JBL MS-8 (with amps built in). OR replace the head unit.

I took a look at the frequency curves for the factory head unit and it uses significant volume dependent equalization. Meaning the frequency response is flattest at low volumes (10) and as volume increases the bass is severely rolled off. Because of this, if you use the Cleansweep, I recommend using the Cleansweep's volume control to ensure response stays flat at all volumes, OR use one of the audiocontrol products with Accubass restoration, which is designed to correct for the frequency dependent EQ in the factory heads.

I am planning to alter my console top by cutting a section off the end of the sliding door and using it to mount the Cleansweep Master Volume knob, the GTA-602 Bass Level Knob and the GTA-704 Rear Channel Level Knob.

My hook-up is like this:
Factory Front Speaker outputs -> SPLIT to both Cleansweep Inputs -> Cleansweep Front/Rear outs to Front/Rear on GTA-704 amp. Cleansweep Rear out SPLIT to GTA-602 amp set to LP to drive 10" RF Subwoofer (see my first post for parts list).

With this setup I am losing the factory volume control and losing the factory front-rear fader, which is why I am adding the control panel n the console, but it will give me the best audio quality. Here is my concept for the Master Volume, Bass and Rear control panel:

J

 

2012 CRV EX Front/Rear Speakers

Some additional pics:

FRONT DOOR CROSSOVER LOCATION:

FRONT DOOR TWEETER READY TO SNAP ON:

REAR DOOR 2" TWEETER CUT-OUT:
Used a razor knife w new blade and several gentle passes around circle to cut out - don't get greedy or you will slip and ruin your doors:

REAR DOOR TWEETER CUP IN PLACE:

USED DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE BEFORE SNAPPING IN TWEETER:

BETTER SHOT OF REAR DOOR TWEETER LOCATIONS:
Tweeter centered 2.25" from left panel edge and 2.25" from style line in door above it

 

Hi Jepelan

Your project is getting AWESOME. You are really helping me because I am too choosing polks components on both front and rear (though i need to change the whole HU). I'm bit curious about the location for the tweeters. In the back, I was planning to place them a little higher than you, just beside the door handles... do you think there is enough depth for them there? Also, my CRV doesn't comes with factory tweeters so I need to figure out a home for them in the front. Was planning to put them also beside the door handles... based on your experience taking the panels out... do you think is a good place for them?

Thanks for all your help.

 

mindol -
You will have to look behind the door panels after you take them off. The tweeters aren't too much trouble because there are a lot of areas where there are holes in the metal door itself covered with black sound barrier, plus the tweeters aren't very deep. It is pretty obvious once you look behind the panel. Take the tweeter cup and tape it *behind* the panel and check for clearance before cutting just to be sure. I thought about putting them higher in the door and farther back but Polks are pretty bright and I didn't want them right in the passenger's ears. You can't really mount them in the cloth covered panel though as the plastic is really thick with waffle patterned ribs on the back, but you should be able to put them up higher near the handles as you like.

Finding clearance for the crossovers was a bit more difficult because they have to mount to metal - the locations I show are about it for the crossovers.

 

Hi Jepelan

Thanks a lot for the guidance! Do you happen to know the part number for the little door panels were the stock tweeters are mounted. I understand they are part of the mirror assembly. Since my CRV doesn't have stock tweeters, I'm thinking on the possibility of using the stock assembly of the EX-L and adapt it.

 

I believe you are looking for line item 8 (right side) and 15 (left side). Look here: http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_parts_list.php?vin=&Label%5BProductID%5D=CR-V&Label%5BYearID%5D=2012&Label%5BDoorID%5D=5&Label%5BGradeID%5D=EX+%28AWD%29&Label%5BAreaID%5D=KA&Label%5BTransmissionID%5D=5AT&Label%5BSectionID%5D=INTERIOR+%2F+BUMPER&Label%5BIllustrationGroupID%5D=MIRROR&ProductID=7&YearID=43&DoorID=3&GradeID=1952&AreaID=2&TransmissionID=7&SectionID=7&IllustrationGroupID=20964

R. Door Mirror Garnish and L. Door Mirror Garnish. You will have to select the right color. Not a bad deal for 5 or 6 bucks

 

This is a huge task. Wish I had the knowledge to do something like this.

I was hoping a simple speaker replace would improve the terrible stock sound.
Definately gonna follow this to see how everything goes.

 

Finally getting some time to work on this. Here is the wiring diagram for my system:

 

Very nice pictures

 

Hi Jep,

I also have a 2012 CR-V, and was planing on replacing the stock speakers with Polk DXi 650's. I was looking around the net for instructions on how to remove the door panels (basically the location of the various screws, what to remove first, etc.), but could not find it for 2012 models. I know this should probably be pretty simple, but this is my first time attempting something like this, and I don't want to screw anything up. Do you happen to have the door panel removal diagrams available that you could share?

Thanks!

 

I couldn't find diagrams for the 2012 door panel removal, but it is pretty straight forward and similar to prior models. There are two screws behind the plastic panel in the door latch cup, and there is a screw in the door recess behind a rubber piece in the bottom. Here are pics:

Pull on the door panel at the inside lower corner after removing screws and it pops off - work your way around the panel until all the snaps are off.

Jep

 

Awesome, thank you very much!

 

Your welcome very much. BTW - I should have mentioned - be sure to read the sticky post at the top of the mobile forum about replacing speakers in an '08 CR-V. Most all of it applies to the 2012 as well and it is a good primer. http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/20-mobile-electronics/7912-replacing-factory-speakers-08-v.html Good luck!

 

Hello, I´m sending this from Argentina.

I´m about to get my 2013 LX CRV and realized that there are some audio issues. I used to be an audio enthusiastic but now i just want to have decent sound without doing much work on the brand new CRV.

I was thinking on using Polk DXi6500 for the front and DXi650 for the rear. I don´t know if the OEM stereo will run them at all. Should I go with 650 in both doors in order not to use an amplifier?

Also thinking to put a BOSS Bass900 Woofer 8" under the passenger seat.

What do you think about this set up?

Regards,
Gonzalo