2012 CR-V Gentex 40A Autodimming Homelink Mirror Install
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Thread: 2012 CR-V Gentex 40A Autodimming Homelink Mirror Install

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    2012 CR-V Gentex 40A Autodimming Homelink Mirror Install

    Hi everyone. I wasn't sure what section to put this post in. Mods if this belongs elsewhere please move.
    I know there are a few Gentex mirror install posts and those definitely helped. Below are the steps I did for an install of the Gentex 40A on a 2012 CR-v.

    I used the Honda dimming mirror installation as a guide which could be found on collegehillshonda (http://www.collegehillshonda.com/ins...ightmirror.pdf) or handa (http://www.handa-accessories.com/crv/12mirror.pdf). What I did differently was to first remove the panels around the steering column to get to the fusebox and figure out the electrical hookup first. The reason being was I wanted to make sure mirror worked before disconnecting the battery. I used an add-a-circuit and used fuse 23 which is listed as the rear wiper circuit which is a switched circuit. This fuse actually affects both from and rear wipers. I chose to use a switched circuit since I park my car on my driveway outside and donít want the homelink working all the time. I may revisit this and check the empty fuse banks 18, 26, and 31 and see which one is switched. If I use one of these do I still need to put a fuse in the top bank of the add-a-circuit?

    1. I removed econ panel. It helps to move the steering wheel all the way up and out. Then, you can reach between the steering column and the right side of the panel and pull it out from there.



    There is a single connector (blue) for the econ button:


    2. Removed the dashboard under panel (no picture).

    3. Removed the driverís dashboard lower cover. I started with the right side of it and worked my way to the left. In the picture below you can see the part I started with (right of steering column release):



    There is a single connector (white) for the VSA button:


    All dashboard panels removed:


    4. Removed the driverís dashboard side cover. This was a bit of a pain to remove. There are holes to get to the tabs but pushing down on them didnít help. What I ended up doing was to pinch the bottom tab and push out the bottom part of the panel. Then, released the black tab. After that I just grabbed the bottom part of the panel and pulled the rest of it out.

    Pulled door seal:


    Panel removed:


    Tabs of the panel:


    5. Took out fuse 23 and with a multimeter made sure it was a switched fuse. I also determined the top connection of the fuse bank is where the power comes in from and made sure the pigtail side of the add-a-circuit was on bottom side of fuse bank (if this is incorrect please let me know). I connected the wire taps to the add-a-circuit and taped off tail end.

    Add-a-circuit in fuse bank 23 (please let me know if I have the add-a-circuit backwards):


    Hard to tell but behind the green/blue wire (car starter wiring) you can see the red wire of the add-a-circuit and the 2 wire taps into the add-a-circuit:


    6. After testing the mirror worked with my wiring, I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery.

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    7. Took out map light roof console. Taking out 2 of the connectors was a bit tight. It looks as if the sunroof and mic part can be removed and easier access to the wiring but I didnít.

    2 screws under the map lights:



    2 screws inside the sunglass holder:



    3 wire connectors. The 2 (gray and green) on the left were a bit hard to get to. I used a small flathead screwdriver to push the green one up:



    Roof console removed:



    8. Removed the sun visor holders by rotating them 45 degrees counterclockwise.

    9. Removed the drivers visor by holding the tab in the front with a screwdriver and pushing up on the visor and swinging it towards the driverís door.

    One wire connector on driverís visor:


    10. Pulled out the A-pillar. I worked from the top-down. I got lucky that clip that came off the A-pillar didnít fall into the body. Definitely follow the advice of the Honda dimming mirror installation doc and stuff a shop towel at the bottom. I believe the bottom clip fell off Ďcause I didnít pull it all the way out away from the pillar. After pulling it away from the body, you pull it up towards the roof.

    A-pillar removed. The top clip stays connected to the pillar:



    On the left side of this picture you can see the yellow tab that fell off and luckily didnít fall into the vehicle body:


    A-pillar removed. The loose black wire going across the side airbag was the car starter wire installed by Honda. Actually it was a 3rd party installer used by the Honda dealership. Looks like the installer didnít even bother removing the A-pillar and just stuffed the wire into the A-Pillar:


    Upper clip in the driverís A-pillar. I used a needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs and pull it out:


    10. Ran wires up from fuse box, up the A-pillar, under the headliner, and to the mirror.

    Ran the wires through the small opening near the side window defogger:


    11. I zip-tied the wires

    Wires zip tied to the roof console wires:


    Wires zip tied to A-pillar. The reason there are 3 wires is 1 for the dimming mirror, 1 for the car starter, and 1 for my radar detector hardwire:


    12. I removed the upper clip in the A-pillar with pliers and discarded it. I installed a new upper clip in the A-pillar panel and put back everything.



    Putting back everything was easy and straightforward for the most part. The roof console was the only pain because putting back the sunroof and light connectors were tight. Like I mentioned before, I think that part can be removed and have easier access to the wiring. Also, for the sunglass holder screws there are plastic tabs they screw into. The plastic tabs slide. So, before installing roof console back, slide the plastic tabs towards you and screw in those first, then the map light screws.

    Hereís the mirror installed. I didnít bother installing the wire cover since the mirror is pretty close to the headliner. I also have to clean up some of the double sided tape on the windshield. The installer for the car starter put the receiver right up against the top of the stock mirror. I had to pry it off to remove the mirror.




  4. #3
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    Really nice write up!!! Should be stickied for sure! I really want to do the auto dim mirro as well. Seems a bit cheeky to me that the EX-L Model did not have one installed from Factory to begin with. I actually read the install instruction and I was a bit put off with it as I really did not want to start tearing things apart. You've done a bad thing here.... got me thinking about when to order the damn mirror now.

  5. #4
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Thanks. Sorry about that Tuktanuk hahaha
    I won't lie...midway through I was second guessing myself and contemplating if I should just have a stereo place install it Ater seeing the install job of the car starter I'm glad I pushed through with the install. I didn't have plans of doing a write up. I just took a ton of photos with my iPhone so I had a reminder when putting things back together. I decided to post it here in case others were thinking about it and hopefully it helps them.

    I definitely agree with you. I too have an EX-L AWD W/Nav and surprised about a non-dimming mirror. At first I thought it wouldn't be too bad not having one. My previous 2 cars had it and I guess I took auto-dimming mirrors for granted I was about to get the Honda mirror but the price they wanted was almost double the gentex mirror. The plus side being the gentex mirror has homelink.

  6. #5
    crv|oc Rank: Sophomore
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    what did you use to pull the Map light covers off?

  7. #6
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    I used the KTC trim tool from CollegeHillsHonda (http://www.collegehillshonda.com/honda-tools/tools.htm). Watching their video on Youtube I'm sure you can use a screw driver wrapped in tape. The KTC trim tool works great though and doesn't scratch or dent the plastic.

    Here is a video that CollegeHillsHonda has on YouTube and where to pry: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJeJtizKT3o. Yes I did the LED lights too Makes the interior brighter at night.

    I actually purchased the Gentex mirror from CollegeHillsHonda because they include the upper clip for the A-pillar in step 12 of my writeup. If you can find the mirror for a better price elsewhere you can always pick up the clip from your local Honda dealership. According to HondaAutomotiveParts (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...PILLAR+GARNISH) it's part number 91561-TV1-E11.

  8. #7
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    1. How did you remove the mirror from the glass? Our 2012 CR-V has a small phillips screw center front on the black plastic cover at the base of the mirror. Do I simply unscrew this and the mirror slides up/off?

    2. Do you know if this is a cam-mount or wedge-mount? The cam mount has a button that slides into the base. To remove, you lift and twist. The wedge mount appears to slide on and is secured by a screw.

    3. Do you have to remove the driver-side visor or can you slip the cable behind the headliner to the A-Frame?

    4. I've seen references to a 6-pin plug that plugs directly into the fuse-box. This might be a slick way to power the mirror. Does anyone know where to get the male plug and does this have both the constant and switched +12v? http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...-fuse-box.html shows ground and +12v, but not switched.

    5. Would you consider two of the "add a circuit fuse"? Note, most of the instructions (and Gentex kits) include splicing clips - I don't really want to be splicing clips onto wires if I don't have to. Two of the "add a circuit fuses" should work for the constant and switched +12v. Anyone know which circuit is constant?

    I'm reasonably handy, but concerned about tearing apart my wife-s new CR-V. Can this really be done without damaging the trim or breaking any of the plastic tabs.

    Thanks - best write-up on the web!!!
    Don

  9. #8
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Hi Don,

    Answers to your questions below in red.

    Quote Originally Posted by dmac001 View Post
    1. How did you remove the mirror from the glass? Our 2012 CR-V has a small phillips screw center front on the black plastic cover at the base of the mirror. Do I simply unscrew this and the mirror slides up/off? Yes you are right. Just unscrew the screw and slide the mirror upwards.

    2. Do you know if this is a cam-mount or wedge-mount? The cam mount has a button that slides into the base. To remove, you lift and twist. The wedge mount appears to slide on and is secured by a screw. It's a wedge mount. The gentex mirror fits on the mount on the windshield. You don't need to change the mount.

    3. Do you have to remove the driver-side visor or can you slip the cable behind the headliner to the A-Frame? I'm not 100% sure but you may be able to. Removing the visor is not hard at all. Just hold in the tab in the front of the visor with a flathead screwdriver and push up and twist the visor. You'll know when it's off.

    4. I've seen references to a 6-pin plug that plugs directly into the fuse-box. This might be a slick way to power the mirror. Does anyone know where to get the male plug and does this have both the constant and switched +12v? http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...-fuse-box.html shows ground and +12v, but not switched. Sorry can't open that link here at work. It's blocked.

    5. Would you consider two of the "add a circuit fuse"? Note, most of the instructions (and Gentex kits) include splicing clips - I don't really want to be splicing clips onto wires if I don't have to. Two of the "add a circuit fuses" should work for the constant and switched +12v. Anyone know which circuit is constant? I did use an add-a-circuit. However, since my car sits outside on my driveway I didn't want the homelink on all the time. I did use the included splicing clips and spliced the add-a-circuit. I could have stripped the wires and crimped them into the add-a-circuit but opted not to.

    I'm reasonably handy, but concerned about tearing apart my wife-s new CR-V. Can this really be done without damaging the trim or breaking any of the plastic tabs. This wasn't bad at all. This was actually my very first time removing car panels. On my previous cars I always chickened out and paid someone to do it. I didn't use any trim tool other than to remove the maplight covers. I just used my hands removing the panels. It's four panels. The A-pillar, econ panel, and VSC panel aren't that bad to remove. The panel that was a bit of a pain was the black driver side panel. That one required a good amount of force but no tabs were broken. I would HIGHLY suggest you disconnect the battery especially when removing the A-pillar since you'll be very near the side airbag. Here's a youtube video from CollegeHillsHonda on a mirror install on a 2007 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1LT5WQxtXE. The visors and A-pillar are slightly different. But you'll get an idea of how to pull off the panels. If you opt to do the install good luck.

    Thanks - best write-up on the web!!!
    Don

  10. #9
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Thanks!! Like you, I'm going to see if I can remove the mirror and check out the fuse area and lower panels first. If that test goes well, I'll tackle the A-Frame!! Thanks,
    Don

  11. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    I installed the Gentex mirror in my wife's new EX. I wanted the Gentex because of the Homelink (garage door opener). I had put a similar Gentex on my Nissan Frontier. The Gentex is what comes on the Nissans that are equipted with the auto-dimming mirror. I removed the panels when I installed it on my Nissan, but on my wife's EX, I tied the Homelink into the dome lights at the roof console harness, and ran the single wire for the auto-dimming portion down without removing any panels. I was able to tuck the wire above the headliner, behind the side pillar panel, and under the weatherstripping to the dash trim without removing anything.

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