2003 Honda CR-V EX remote start install
Remote Start Unit: Python Responder One – single button remote start, no lock, unlock, panic, or aux buttons.
Immobilizer Bypass Unit: Xpresskit PKH34
*This is for reference only, complete the project at your own risk.
*Always use a DMM to test circuits.
Remove the steering column cover first, and then remove lower dash cover.
• Note: there are 2 screws holding the lower dash in place, one under the fuse block cover and one in the upper right corner of the pop-out tray on the lower left side.
• Other than the 2 screws, the dash is held on by “pop pins”.
Pop out the cruise control and moon roof switches (and whatever else you may have) and disconnect them.
Remove the drivers side kick panel, it should just pop out, no screws.
I removed the driver’s seat in order to more easily gain access to the wires under the dash; however disconnecting the airbag harness in the seat tripped the SRS code on the dash cluster…apparently as long as you don’t turn the key on while the airbags are disconnected, you will not trip the warning light. According to the dealer this light will not go off without them resetting it, even with disconnecting the battery. However, I used the paper clip method to reset the SRS warning light and it was easy to do and solved the problem
• In the fuse panel in the dash, there is a yellow connector with only 2 wires in it. (Don't worry that's just a place holder for it, not a real connection.)
• Disconnect that harness, jumper the 2 wires together (paper clip works great)
turn the ignition on (do not start the car)
• The SRS light will come on and after 6 seconds the light will go off, immediately remove the jumper
• After 4 seconds the light will come back on, immediately re-apply the jumper
• The light will go back off again or blink 2x and go off
• Turn off the ignition and remove the jumper
• Start the car, the SRS light should stay on for about 6 seconds and then go off.
• Note: If you don’t remove and re-apply the jumper fast enough, it will not reset the SRS indicator, try again.
Wire Connections, remote start:
Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM Not Connected
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM Not Connected
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) Not Connected
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT Not Connected
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED* Not Connected
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT Not Connected
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT* Not Connected
H1/8 BLACK GROUND Factory ground above the DR side kick panel
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH Red/black wire in DR side kick panel *see photo
* Not available with 1 button remote
4-pin satellite harness wiring diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT Connect to bypass module brown wire (Ground when running/status wire)
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not Connected
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT Not Connected
4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT Not Connected
Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT Black/Yellow wire is ignition harness
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT Black/White wire is ignition harness
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT White/Red wire is ignition harness
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT White wire in ignition harness
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION Black/Red wire in ignition harness
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT White wire in ignition harness
*Both red wires were connected to White wire in ignition harness
Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT Not Connected
2 EMPTY NOT USED Not Connected
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT* Not Connected
*Ignition controlled lock only
*I didn’t bother to hook up the lock/unlock harness since the CRV will not allow the doors to be locked/unlocked with the remote while the vehicle is running.
Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT Factory ground above the DR side kick panel
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE Connect to single blue wire with test connector behind battery
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE White/Black wire in brake sensor *see photo
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE Connect to hood pin kill-switch
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT Not Connected
*The neutral safety switch wire WOULD NOT WORK, I was told by the local installer NOT to use that wire, instead run this directly to ground.
Wire Connections, immobilizer bypass:
Brown Connect to Blue Status wire is Satellite harness
Green Not Connected
Blue Not Connected
Violet/White Not Connected
Violet Splice into White wire (Pin 2) in 7 pin connector at key switch
Pink/White Connect to one end of Blue Orange wire(Pin 5) in 7 pin connector at key switch
Pink Connect to the other end of Blue Orange wire(Pin 5) in 7 pin connector at key switch
Orange Splice into Yellow/Black wire (Pin 6) in 7 pin connector at key switch
Red (+) Splice into White/Red? wire (Pin ?) in 7 pin connector at key switch
Black (-) Splice into Brown/Yellow wire (Pin 1) in 7 pin connector at key switch
*The Blue/Orange wire should not be directly connected after being cut, it should connect into the bypass via the pink/white wire and then out the bypass via the pink wire and back into the blue/orange wire.
*The red wire must be connected to constant power, the D2D harness DID NOT work, it appears this is a common issue with the PKH34 bypass unit.
*I left the D2D harness connected, but I don’t think its necessary since I used wire-to-wire connects on the Brown, Red and Black wires…I only left it connected because it was secured up under the dash…I did not try to start the vehicle without it, so I don’t know for sure that it will work without this harness but I suspect it will.
*I can’t remember for sure which wire I used for constant power (red wire), but test them to determine the proper one.
The rest of the install should be pretty self explanatory, just be sure to use ground the neutral safety switch and use wire-to-wire connections instead of relying on the D2D harness. Also, the bypass will need to be programmed by following the instructions for it.
I probably missed something in here, but this is pretty close to the total project.