Performance Chips?

[j-raj]

Are there any performance enhancing chips? Like either for more fuel economy or to squeeze a tad bit more horsepower?

[wu!]

I would like to know as well. The last I checked, Hondata did not have a K-Pro chip for the K24 CR-V.

[Chris_98_LX]

Honda CRV 1997-99 4 Cylinder PGM p/n - V21-147

2002 - I guess 2005. All these vehicles have the same ECU
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/bizshop/bp/1420011/unichip.html?apwcid=V1092232004W411a2344ecd29&apwkwd=Unichip+Performance+Chip+02+03+04+Honda+Civ ic+%231420011

Chris

[b-coke]

I'm thinking that venom makes one, I saw it on summits website.

[Chris_98_LX]

Venom does make one thats the first part number I listed I believe. Here is a list that I found on another forum.

Accel 300+ Digital Ignition and Coil Kit – p/n 49310
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears – p/n 23-802
AEM High Performance Fuel Filter – p/n 25-200R
Perma-Cool Oil Filter Relocation Kit – p/n 10695
Fluidampr Harmonic Damper – p/n 630602
Unorthodox Racing Ultra S Underdrive Crank Pulley – p/n 020610902
JET V-Force Power Control Module – p/n 67001
Venom 400 Performance Control Module – p/n V21-147
Venom Super Cool High Performance Fuel Pump – p/n HP710-310

Intake manifold:
Skunk 2
B18
BBK Throttle Body - p/n 1546
Accel Fuel Injectors - p/n 154260
Transmissions:
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutche – p/n DF900800
Centerforce II Pressure Plate – p/n CFT900800
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel – p/n 191471
BBK Throttle Body - p/n 1546
Accel Fuel Injectors - p/n 154260
Accel 300+ Digital Ignition and Coil Kit – p/n 49310
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears – p/n 23-802
AEM High Performance Fuel Filter – p/n 25-200R
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutche – p/n DF900800
Centerforce II Pressure Plate – p/n CFT900800
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel – p/n 191471
Perma-Cool Oil Filter Relocation Kit – p/n 10695
Fluidampr Harmonic Damper – p/n 630602
Unorthodox Racing Ultra S Underdrive Crank Pulley – p/n 020610902
Catco Direct Fit Catalytic Converter – p/n 4172
JET V-Force Power Control Module – p/n 67001
Venom 400 Performance Control Module – p/n V21-147
Venom Super Cool High Performance Fuel Pump – p/n HP710-310
Ingalls Engineering Adjustable Camber Kit – p/n 38900
Ingalls Engineering Adjustable Camber Kit – p/n 38920
Intrax Camber Kit – p/n 99-9-016
Russell Street Legal Brake Line Kit- p/n 684400
KYB GR-2: 341260 (Front) 341261 (Rear)
K&N Air Filter: 33-2104
Neuspeed Strut Bar: 35.20.73 (Black) 35.20.73P (Chrome)
Brembo: 25464 (Blanks) 35464 (Drilled) 45464 (Slotted) Rear Drums (21102)
EBC Green Stuff: DP6872
NGK High Performance Spark Plug Wires: HE82
Akebono ProACT Ultra ceramic brake pads - p/n ACT503

Chris

[2RedV's]

Sorry for the late reply.
All these chips do is to fool the cpu into thinking the coolant temp is low, which then dumps more fuel into the injectors which causes a rich condition which causes the CAT to run way hot and burn out at the same time that you are burning way too much fuel. Any performance increase will be minimal and short-lived and your fuel mileage will go straight to hell.

[Tarhead]

So....after putting on ~$10,000 in aftermarket mods what's a few hundred more for gas?:D It was easier when I was young...competition cams, 4 barrel carbs, headers, Mag wheels, dice, speakers and an 8-track were about all the mods we had to choose from.
Man I'm old!!!!!

[Chris_98_LX]

Sorry for the late reply.
All these chips do is to fool the cpu into thinking the coolant temp is low, which then dumps more fuel into the injectors which causes a rich condition which causes the CAT to run way hot and burn out at the same time that you are burning way too much fuel. Any performance increase will be minimal and short-lived and your fuel mileage will go straight to hell.

Actually majority of them fool the factory ECU into thinking the engine is breathing in much colder air by changing the signal from the IAT sensor which in turn it adds more fuel. But as far as everything else you are correct. Would be more beneficial to get a piggy back or stand alone EMS. Those you can tune for performance or economy.

So....after putting on ~$10,000 in aftermarket mods what's a few hundred more for gas? It was easier when I was young...competition cams, 4 barrel carbs, headers, Mag wheels, dice, speakers and an 8-track were about all the mods we had to choose from.
Man I'm old!!!!!

With the right aftermarket mods you can actually increase MPG a little or keep it the same. My MPG went up 4 MPG in the city and 6MPG on the highway after some of my mods. But yeah if they got the money to spend $10,000 on mods then a few hundred isn't gonna hurt the wallet at all.

Chris

[2RedV's]

Whether it modifies coolant temp or incoming air temp, it's still the same effect. It makes it run rich. For the average guy looking for some more power, it isn't worth the results.

Tarhead - I completely understand the $10,000 mod issue on older musclecars. Nothing like bolting on a new intake and carb and a set of headers to awaken a good old V8. Then you want aluminum heads, roller rockers, MSD ignition....

[axellfrias]

chris,

i'm curious abt that mod ur talking about... the one that increases the MPG? what is it?

[connermt]

So....after putting on ~$10,000 in aftermarket mods what's a few hundred more for gas?:D It was easier when I was young...competition cams, 4 barrel carbs, headers, Mag wheels, dice, speakers and an 8-track were about all the mods we had to choose from.
Man I'm old!!!!!

DICE :eek: :D
I SO remember those - got a pair once for a gift :confused:

[Chris_98_LX]

I noticed the difference after I installed my MSD 6AL, MSD wires, and blaster 2 coil, but I already had the ram air intake and a custom cat back exhaust. I did a few more tanks and it looks to have only increased but about 4mpg combined highway and city from the best I could tell.

Chris

[ottomaticjack]

So....after putting on ~$10,000 in aftermarket mods what's a few hundred more for gas?:D It was easier when I was young...competition cams, 4 barrel carbs, headers, Mag wheels, dice, speakers and an 8-track were about all the mods we had to choose from.
Man I'm old!!!!!


and :D those ever so elating early morning carburetor retuning sessions when the weather changed....lol

[2RedV's]

and :D those ever so elating early morning carburetor retuning sessions when the weather changed....lolAhh, yes. Twin sidedraft carbs on a couple of old Datsun 1970 240Z's... I wonder why I switched to a different intake and triple Weber carbs? :)

[Mitchie]

Ahh, yes. Twin sidedraft carbs on a couple of old Datsun 1970 240Z's... I wonder why I switched to a different intake and triple Weber carbs? :)

Cuz you're a sucker for punishment! :eek: :D
Oh I'm sorry! I thaught this was a discussion about potato chips:D

[OBsteve]

I was wondering if anyone has bought and installed any type of gas savers such as performance chips or those "vortex air blades" or magnets. If so, are they worth it or even work? Are they good or bad for the engine? Any opinions are greatly appreciated

[lizzurd]

I was wondering if anyone has bought and installed any type of gas savers such as performance chips or those "vortex air blades" or magnets. If so, are they worth it or even work? Are they good or bad for the engine? Any opinions are greatly appreciated



Save your money. All those gadgets are pretty much snake oil. Car manufactures spend billions of dollars figuring out how to improve the mileage on new cars. If any of these devices actually made a difference the car companies would use them.

[Black Pearl]

X2 for the gadgets as well as all of the magical exilers that snake oil saleman want to sell you to improve your mileage. If any of this stuff worked it would be immediately incorporated into the car or the fuel by the oil companies.

[Serj22]

I saw someone do a test on all those fuel savers on two trucks both on dynos. That little vortex thing just restricts air flow and lowers mileage, and the spark plug comp thing just wound up melting onto the valve cover, and then lighting fire, and causing everything plastic under the hod to melt. The cpu they hooked up just wouldn't allow the car to start, and then when they did get it running, the CEL came back with a too lean, then not enough fuel rating over and over and over, and the enging just stopped running. They bypassed the computer and ran it anyway, and the truck had a loss of 22HP and the gas mileage went way down.

All those things are dumb, and the only way to save fuel really is with aerodynamic aesthetics - the uglier you make your car... the more gas mileage you get.

[electric V]

If you drive like a fuel miser you could spend quite a lot of money to get better headers, exhaust, and intake, but if you drive like speed racer then the fuel millage will drop with these upgrades.

[Serj22]

Speed racer drives like crap in a super animated car, in a horrible movie flop that brought in less money than it cost to produce. I will never drive like him!!!!

[fillsteak]

Buy the magnets for fridge art. Buy the vortex blades for a desk toy.

As for the engine, if you do buy those two, they shouldn't damage your engine; just your wallet.

It you want to cheaply increase your mpg, just drive smart. You can remove the spare tire! Weight reduction helps a bit, but it does come with its own added issues (like not have a spare during a flat, in this case). Nothing is simple when it comes to cars ^_^

[Serj22]

The magnets actually wind up melting onto the engine block causing a fire. I'd call that damage.

[Radar24]

To reiterate the given opinions, the best practical method of increasing MPG is to drive smart. Invest some time into looking up some of the various ingenious methods. Most of them that do not cost anything. They involve reducing weight or methods of conserving momentum by anticipating traffic patterns. I think there are a few tricks such as one of those gizmos that change the traffic lights as you approach...but are Highly illegal!

I believe I read that taken to the extreme a whole bunch of these techniques together was proven to change the MPG from 35 to over 60. However most of us would never put up with the inconveniences. In some cases the increase in MPG is traded off for increased maintenance or wear as in the case of running your tires at 40 PSI. Or using oil thinner than recommended.

In the final result some of the techniques will not save $ and might even cost you in the form of added wear. Costing you more than the amount saved by increasing MPG.

Do you want to save money, increase MPG or both?
So choose the method wisely.

-Rg

[sleeksilver]

All of those things don't work.

[Black Pearl]

I think there are a few tricks such as one of those gizmos that change the traffic lights as you approach...but are Highly illegal!

So choose the method wisely.

-Rg

Hmm! I have a gizmo installed in my head by the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania that turns green lights red. Perhaps I could buy one these illegal gizmos and jam the thing.

The other phenomena I have noticed with gas saving techniques such as starting out from traffic lights gently or driving the speed limit is the reaction of other drivers. When employing such techniques, I have noticed that I frequently get a hand gesture where the middle finger (you know the one in-between the index and the ring) is predominantly displayed. Also I have noticed that people will say things. While I am not particularly adept at reading lips, I frequently see something mouthed to me in an exaggerated form. The front incisors are placed firmly on the lower lip, the mouth is rapidly opened, which is then followed by the lips forming a tight O like the Gerber baby or as though they were blowing smoke rings. I can only guess at what they are saying but I doubt that it is an expression of approval for my gas saving techniques.

I must confess a certain satisfaction when I see such gesticulations in my rear view mirror on a two lane highway loaded with traffic lights--for I know that gizmo mentioned above will extract some revenge.

For the most part, I have given up such techniques. Mortal fear has a way of dampening green economics.

[Radar24]

All of those things don't work.
It is not so much that they do not work. It is more like they individually do not make much of a measurable difference. But several methods that increase by .1% can all together add up to a few %.

The gadgets as a rule do not work but anything that substantially reduces weight, conserves momentum or reduces wasted energy while trying to get up to driving speed will.

It takes a super anal and cheap person to consistently drive in a manner that would make any measurable difference. I qualify for the first but not so much the second. :D I kind off like to pick my battles and only those driving techniques that do not extraordinarily irritate other drivers or require serious concentration on my part are worth considering.

After all the main event while driving is trying not to hit anyone or even more so to not get hit. By that super anal person trying to get the extra .1% MPG :)

-Rg

[Serj22]

Just get a scangauge so you can feel extra paranoid about your driving.:)

[electric V]

In some cases the increase in MPG is traded off for increased maintenance or wear as in the case of running your tires at 40 PSI. -Rg

The tires on my Gen 1 are at 40 PSI I have no problems so far (some shop put them up there i usually have the tires at 36PSI)

[Radar24]

In the case of a 36 PSI recommended setting going to 40 PSI is not that much of an increase so the increased MPG cannot likewise be that much.

On the other hand if the recommended pressure is 28, the 12 PSI increase to 40 is 43%. So in that case the MPG increase might be more substantial and noticeable. It still should be only in the neighborhood of a few MPG max. Anyone claiming 50% more MPG is not being accurate or is FOS! :D

I wish ya'll would stop claiming 'I never had any problems'. IMO it means nothing. For all you know the next time you go around the bend your tire could deflate on a super hot day after the tire has been sitting in the sun for a while and the pavement is at 140F+. When you rollover from the pressure creeping up to 50+ PSI on a tire rated only up to 40 PSI will you consider it a freak occurrence or does then the claim 'I never had any problem' stop!

I realize there is some margin in the 40 PSI max rating but I personally would not want to approach close to it or mess with it at all.

The safety margin is not indefinite! There is a limit or point at which point that sucker can and will blow. As the tire ages that safety margin probably creeps down and gets lower lower while 'youse' are not dropping your PSI setting accordingly.

IMAO (In My Anal Opinion) :D I would not go over 36PSI on a tire rated for 40 PSI max. In my case I would sleep a lot better having that extra safety cushion. Not that I would ever do that. The increased tire wear is often more expensive than any MPG gains. This is key since if the MPG goes up by 1% and the tire wear up by 10% if you do the calculation it will be evident you will not gain anything and in fact it may even be substantially less cost effective.

I will restate the limits of 2 or maybe 3 PSI increase over that recommended previously by others as being the max anyone would ever want to increase up to. In my case the stated PSI F/R on the label is 30 PSI. I may set it at 32 PSI only if the wear in the edges is obvious (can't tell yet) or the ambient temperature is expected to go down significantly. I actually set them to 34 PSI last fall when it was 60F in November and the temp was supposed to drop to 30-40F or lower the next day for most of the winter. That way I avoided having the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light from going on.

One must be reasonable as more and more is often not better. There are many factors such as increased bearing wear from jarring one must take into account. Other components to consider for added wear are possibly the struts as well as any of the other suspension components. These parts are not cheap and the labor cost is often very high.

In no case should anyone go over (or even up to IMO) the max recommended on the tire sidewall.

Yeah I know, you 'never had any problems'! Good luck as at some point it will run out. You are going to need it!

*** Caution *** as a few tires are only rated for 36 PSI Max for example although they are not that common.

-Rg

[MarkyMark]

Since the 3rd Gens have a live MPG monitor, I've learned quite a bit about my driving habits relative to fuel economy. A scan gauge can be used in vehicles without an MPG monitor

[Serj22]

Also I have noticed that people will say things. While I am not particularly adept at reading lips, I frequently see something mouthed to me in an exaggerated form. The front incisors are placed firmly on the lower lip, the mouth is rapidly opened, which is then followed by the lips forming a tight O like the Gerber baby or as though they were blowing smoke rings.

I just now read this and sat very still mouthing as you say here, and i must say, I get it. Hahaha.:D I'm so dum.

[electric V]

There is an interesting article about this in C&D where they did the math as to weather or not the tires and a tune upreally work to increase fuel millage. They did it because of a speach that the Prez did when he was campaiging and he said that everyone could save fuel by overinflating tires and getting a regular tune up. This will not work and one of the C&D guys did the math on it.

The new insite has an ECO-Assist feature so the driver can pic how much boost they want from the electric motors. Thus being able to control the MPG:D

[Radar24]

There is an interesting article about this in C&D where they did the math as to weather or not the tires and a tune upreally work to increase fuel millage. They did it because of a speach that the Prez did when he was campaiging and he said that everyone could save fuel by overinflating tires and getting a regular tune up. This will not work and one of the C&D guys did the math on it.
Precisely. There might be a slight change as I have been writing all along.
Practically unmeasurable with out special instrumentation due to the inaccuracy of measuring the gallons put into the tank during different fill ups. There are several variables that can change the gallons pumped any given time such as pump chosen, pump fill level or trip point repeatability, tank inclination, vehicle loading... Any actual improvements with just a couple of PSI increase are buried in the measurement noise... That would be about the max recommended increase over normal not by just me but by others on this site too. Those that crank it right up to 40PSI are possibly risking damage or added tire wear.

Ya, Ya, I know. You never had any problems... Not even at 44 PSI...

Like I wrote before anyone that claims changing the tire pressure a few PSI over normal results in an increase of a few MPGs is not being accurate or probably have good objectivity. IMO

If it was so the manufacturer would raise the recommended pressure. right?

Now if the recommended is 30 PSI and you are driving at 20 PSI, raising it to 32 might be significant and measurable to +/- 1 MPG using the gas pump to measure gallons and miles driven on a tankful with the standard MPG calculation.

MPG = (miles driven) / (gallons pumped)

I do not know what the MMI calculation accuracy is but it probably is no better than +/- 1 MPG.
Even if it displays tenths of MPG.

Does anyone know how accurate the MMI MPG calculation is?

-Rg

[electric V]

I was agreeing with you Radar about the tire inflation method. It wond ork unless you overpressurize the tires by 20 or 30 PSI over the recommended limit. And tune ups don't really exist for cars made in the last decade because Honda, Toyota, Dodge, Ford and many other companys have say that the car wont need any tuning before 100,000 - 120,000 miles.

The wierd thing is I think that the tire manufacturer (BFG) has the recommended at 40PSI and there is no wear n' tear on suspention components yet. Belive me I would notice in a second. But the door jam says 26 PSI and I know that I wouldn't like it that low.

And with the tires at 40 PSI I am not getting better MPG

OOPS maybe I should have said that first to get rid of any confusion:rolleyes:

[Badgerland]

Does anyone know how accurate the MMI MPG calculation is?

-Rg


Ours is regularly within .5 mpg always higher than the manual calculations.

[electric V]

A good Video to watch on caranddriver.com is about what Obama said about over inflating tires. I cant figure out how to get the link to the web page because it is a pop up but for anyone that is interested...

Go to www.caranddriver.com
Click on Videos
a popup will come up and in the search bar type in Obama
The video is from friday august 8, 2008

it is a little off topic but it does answer the question about inflating tires to save fuel economy

[Serj22]

What exactly is a "tune up"? I keep hearing this, but it really doesn't have any meaning.

[electric V]

Its from the olden days when people would have to go get spark plugs changed every few hundered miles and get other work done like geting the belts replaced. They really don't exist anymore. They are from before my time

[Serj22]

I used to do that maintenance on my old car all the time, but that's still not a "tune up" it's a "clean or replace electrical stuff and change belt occasionally" there is nothing to do with tuning the car, or upgrading it. Hmmm... just as they say, if a quiz is quizzical, then a test is...

[GTCB-chris]

attention everyone, all these a scams, i was talking to the owner of Mindblower Performance chips ( look them up online and on ebay) and all these "chips" are just 3 cent resistors inside a fancy box.

[Serj22]

It's a resistor AND an LED!!!! GET YOUR FACTS STRAIGHT!!! :mad: It does something!!!


It lighty-uppy all pretty. For real, all of them are scams and some even hook up to a lightbulb and nowhere near the car's ECU, and if it was a real chip, it would trick the engine into thinking it's colder, and take in more fuel, but the engine already knows it's not cold and basically goes "**** you chip, I know waht temperature it is"

[illegal]

attention everyone, all these a scams, i was talking to the owner of Mindblower Performance chips ( look them up online and on ebay) and all these "chips" are just 3 cent resistors inside a fancy box.

I thought everyone knew this. HONDATA OR BUST my friends.

[GTCB-chris]

this D-bag has thousands of positive feed back, but only because he demands a positive feedback before he refunds your money, have you found a hondata for the b2072?

[illegal]

you can put a honda system in on the crv, yes. It has been done on mine, but you dont really have the mods for it to be worth it yet. Your jumping to D when you havent done A B and C yet

[electric V]

those aren't useless they work great as substitutes for clay pigeons

guy #1: whats that

guy #2: its my new preformance chip

guy #1: what is it for

guy #2: you'll see PULL:D

[illegal]

oh, I see what you did there.....:D