DIY valve adjustment

[Dino25]

Hi,
I have a 2001 CRV with 80k on it. I have done all the service maintenance on it myself with exception of the valve adjust and timing belt. I'm hearing that the V. adjustment should be done earlier, so now I'm hot to tear into it and make sure the exhaust valve are ok. I am an ex Oldmobile tech, fairly savy, but not familiar with adjusting valves. Any tips on needed parts, adjusting procedure and tools would be appreciated. Should I have a manual handy?
I was hoping someone may have created some sort of documentation of their personal experience (video) for someone like myself.
Thanks,
Dean

[Dino25]

Well,

Since no one could give any input, I researched what I needed and got it done. Here is what I found:

Free PDF service manual for 97-2000 CRV:

Link removed by moderator - This is an illegal copy of the service manual. Honda has never released a free version (nor has Helms) and you should purchase a copy. Please do not post links to copyrighted materials here.

For pics and other info:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/valveadjust/valveadjust.php

Materials needed:
New OEM gasket set. Head cover gasket ~$13, spark plug hole seals 4@ ~$7 a piece:eek: . You might get away with reusing the old neoprene gaskets the first replacement. I reused the plug seals, hope it is not a mistake but can easily be checked for leaking.
Liquid gasket (I used an aviation gasket maker)

Tools needed:
For turning over engine @ the Crank pulley bolt (Top dead center)
19mm 1/2" drive socket
~6" 1/2" drive extention
1/2" breaker bar
5/8 spark plug socket, extention, ratchet. Remove plugs so it is easier to turn over cylinders and you won't loosen the crank pulley bolt.

For Plenum and Head cover
10 and 12mm sockets
Torque wrench with range from 7-20 ft lbs. specs in manual.
14 mm socket or wrench for bracket on back right of head, gets in the way of head cover r&r.

For valve adjustment
12mm box wrench and regular screwdriver (loosen exhaust valve lock nuts with 12mm socket and ratchet) then use wrench and screwdriver to adjust.
Feeler gages .11mm for intakes (I did a go/nogo on the intakes and did not adjust them) .2mm / .008in. for exhausts side. Specs also on underside of hood.
Here is my procedure for getting the right setting. (I found that my exhaust valves were at aprox. .006in. the tight end of the spec)
Tighten the adjuster with the feeler gage in place until it will just stick without sliding, then pretighten with box wrench making sure that the feeler gage will slide out with considerable tention. Then tighten the lock nut down with the 12mm socket and torque wrench. The feeler gage should now slide in and out with just the right amount of tension. (the assembly will loosen slightly when torqued).

Clean all gasket services. Use the liquid gasket maker as directed in the manual. Install cover with tightening sequence and torque to spec.
Don't forget any hoses, plug wires, brackets.
Let the gasket maker set up for half hour or so before oil contact (depends on material used).
I disconnected the Distributer wire connector and cranked the engine over to wash the valve assem. with oil before starting.

Easy. Damn thing runs better and I swear that the little off idle hesitation it always had is now gone.:D

Someone might say: it only cost around $120 for a valve adjustment at a non dealer. But I say that by doing it yourself you know what your getting.

[2RedV's]

Dino25:

While everyone surely appreciates your nice writeup on the valve adjustment, I had to delete the portion where you posted a link to an illegal copy of the 97-01 Service manual. No sense in getting the forum in trouble.

In case you edit it out, here is what I inserted (so others can see what I wrote)

Link removed by moderator - This is an illegal copy of the service manual. Honda has never released a free version (nor has Helms) and you should purchase a copy. Please do not post links to copyrighted materials here.

Did you take any pictures that you could post?
This might be used in the new how-to section that is being developed.

Keep up the good work! :)

[2RedV's]

Well,

Since no one could give any input, I researched what I needed and got it done. Here is what I found:

Free PDF service manual for 97-2000 CRV:

Link removed by moderator - This is an illegal copy of the service manual. Honda has never released a free version (nor has Helms) and you should purchase a copy. Please do not post links to copyrighted materials here.

For pics and other info:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/valveadjust/valveadjust.php

Materials needed:
New OEM gasket set. Head cover gasket ~$13, spark plug hole seals 4@ ~$7 a piece:eek: . You might get away with reusing the old neoprene gaskets the first replacement. I reused the plug seals, hope it is not a mistake but can easily be checked for leaking.
Liquid gasket (I used an aviation gasket maker)

Tools needed:
For turning over engine @ the Crank pulley bolt (Top dead center)
19mm 1/2" drive socket
~6" 1/2" drive extention
1/2" breaker bar
5/8 spark plug socket, extention, ratchet. Remove plugs so it is easier to turn over cylinders and you won't loosen the crank pulley bolt.

For Plenum and Head cover
10 and 12mm sockets
Torque wrench with range from 7-20 ft lbs. specs in manual.
14 mm socket or wrench for bracket on back right of head, gets in the way of head cover r&r.

For valve adjustment
12mm box wrench and regular screwdriver (loosen exhaust valve lock nuts with 12mm socket and ratchet) then use wrench and screwdriver to adjust.
Feeler gages .11mm for intakes (I did a go/nogo on the intakes and did not adjust them) .2mm / .008in. for exhausts side. Specs also on underside of hood.
Here is my procedure for getting the right setting. (I found that my exhaust valves were at aprox. .006in. the tight end of the spec)
Tighten the adjuster with the feeler gage in place until it will just stick without sliding, then pretighten with box wrench making sure that the feeler gage will slide out with considerable tention. Then tighten the lock nut down with the 12mm socket and torque wrench. The feeler gage should now slide in and out with just the right amount of tension. (the assembly will loosen slightly when torqued).

Clean all gasket services. Use the liquid gasket maker as directed in the manual. Install cover with tightening sequence and torque to spec.
Don't forget any hoses, plug wires, brackets.
Let the gasket maker set up for half hour or so before oil contact (depends on material used).
I disconnected the Distributer wire connector and cranked the engine over to wash the valve assem. with oil before starting.

Easy. Damn thing runs better and I swear that the little off idle hesitation it always had is now gone.:D

Someone might say: it only cost around $120 for a valve adjustment at a non dealer. But I say that by doing it yourself you know what your getting.
I will re-use the spark plug hole seals one or two times and have been able to re-use the valve cover gasket multiple times as long as it was a genuine Honda one to begin with. The real Honda ones are surprisingly resilient and thick. I also use ZERO gasket sealer and have had no leaks, ever.

A point to stress to anyone doing this the first time - ONLY TURN THE ENGINE OVER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE! If not, you risk jumping the timing belt a tooth or two which would be bad!

I was slightly surprised that you think it runs better with loose exhaust valves. In general, the tighter valve will produce slightly more power than a loose valve. Less intake charge escapes before being burned. However, many high performance cars that run tighter valve specs also require even more frequent valve adjustments as the result of too tight valves is a burnt valve. The old Integra which utilized the same basic engine design as the 97-2001 V had 15k mile valve adjustments specs! Makes you wonder why Honda said 90k miles on the V, doesn't it? Maybe those Integras didn't have burnt valve issues like V's do because they were actually adjusted when they should be....