Oil Filter Removal

[CRV-Rob]

This is my first post so I'd like to hello to everyone.

Now for the question, as we all know the oil is great position for the DIY'ers. :D Does anyone have a good technique to get it off without making the huge mess.

[Carbuff2]

Now for the question, as we all know the oil is great position for the DIY'ers. :D Does anyone have a good technique to get it off without making the huge mess.

Welcome Rob,

The best tip is, don't position yourself directly under the filter when removing!:p :D



I always put paper towels under the filter when loosening it....also you should put plastic or aluminum foil over the frame rail to prevent the oil from getting in there where you can't wipe it clean (it drips for 3 or four days...)

Other than the mess, it's a relatively easy car to change the oil on. (Unless the OE filter is really tight, which it usually is...):rolleyes:


Have Fun,

[2RedV's]

Would you believe that Honda even has a special part to assist in this for the 2nd gen V's? Here is a link to it, halfway down the page, but you could make your own out of plastic from a gallon milk jug:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvmaint02.html

[beige2007]

i just changed the oil and filter today.....other than the problem of getting my fat butt under the car without raising the car......this has to be the easiest oil change i've done in a long time. the oil filter mount is about six inches directly above the drain. no frame rails to worry about...no need for that little accessory to keep the oil from spilling all over the place. 17mm short socket & an "F" filter socket made by a company called OEM from my local Autozone ($4.00) & a small ratchet wrench.

- $23.00 for a 5 quart container of MOBIL1 5W20 fully synthetic oil from Walmart - $12.00 for a MOBIL1 filter.....M1-110

i might go with the Honda filter next time for 2 reasons:

1.) it's cheaper.....$5 i think from HandA
2.) the o-ring on the honda filter is rounded....the MOBIL1 has a flat o-ring
the rounded o-ring makes a better seal under compression i think.

[Markh455]

I assume that you have a oil drain pan to drain the oil into. Place the oil drain pan on the ground under the filter, turn the filter (with your filter wrench) until it starts to get loose (so you can turn it by hand) as it turns it will get loose and oil will start to flow down the filter and into the oil drain pan. Let it drain for a few minutes, then finish unscrewing the filter from the engine (hang on to the filter as you do this so you don't drop it when it detaches from the engine). You will still get a little oil on you, but think of it as a "badge of honor".

I wish you good luck and enjoyment with your wrench turning!




This is my first post so I'd like to hello to everyone.

Now for the question, as we all know the oil is great position for the DIY'ers. :D Does anyone have a good technique to get it off without making the huge mess.

[2RedV's]

That's my general method on all vehicles. I don't just unscrew a drain plug all the way when the oil pan, tranny pan, etc. is full. It prevents splashing too. I take the plug all the way out after the majority of the fluid has drained.

[ELP_JC]

Just crawled under my day-old '07 after reading about oil leaks (bone dry so far), and it's going to be the easiest car to change the oil I've ever had. Oil filter is vertical, whch means minimal mess, and you can pre-fill it completely (to minimize dry running). Plus no parts around. Oil drain the same thing: no parts in the way. Piece of cake. I always use my plier-type oil filter wrench on new filters; it never fails. Used to buy those socket-type, but got tired of throwing my money away. The plier-type (from Griot's Garage) has never failed, and have been able to use it in all my cars and motorcycles for the last 10 years. Good luck.
JC

[2RedV's]

ELP_JC - I guess you will really like the auto tranny fluid changes. Easiest fluid to change of all of them. Bet you can't wait until 30k miles! :D

[Carbuff2]

Just crawled under my day-old '07 Oil filter is vertical, whch means minimal mess, and you can pre-fill it completely (to minimize dry running). JC

FWIW the filter on the Honda V6 (like our Acura) is also nearly vertical. Still drips though...the oil comes out of the engine oil feed line. :(

Pre-filling an empty oil filter to reduce the effect of a dry start is good practice, BTW. Even on a horizontal filter, pre-filling halfway reduces the dry-start period at oil change time...
:cool:

[VIVADUDE]

My first Honda and I am lovin it already........Had a Nissan Altima before the CRV. Oil filter position sucked big time. Seems like I won't be changing it as often but will now "look forward" to it. Oh yeah, guess what.......The CRV takes the same filter as the Altima!!!!! and I happen to have 2 left over.:D
What I find really awesome is that except for the Honda S2000, the rest of the line takes the same oil filter !!!!!!!!!!!!

[2RedV's]

My first Honda and I am lovin it already........Had a Nissan Altima before the CRV. Oil filter position sucked big time. Seems like I won't be changing it as often but will now "look forward" to it. Oh yeah, guess what.......The CRV takes the same filter as the Altima!!!!! and I happen to have 2 left over.:D
What I find really awesome is that except for the Honda S2000, the rest of the line takes the same oil filter !!!!!!!!!!!!Guess what? You can use the bigger S2000 filter on your V. Honda even mentioned it in a dealer communication a while back.

[2RedV's]

Here it is again:

From the September 2002 Honda Service News is a nice little article about using larger oil filters. (keep in mind this was written in 2002 and part numbers may have changed) However, people on other forums have reported this is true for the 2nd gen's with no issues. Assuming the 2007 (3rd gen) V is the same since the engine is basically unchanged, this should be OK as well.


Can a Small Oil Filter Be Replaced by a Large One?

For all Honda models, the answer is YES. The 65
mm diameter oil filter is directly interchangeable
with the 80 mm diameter filter. Both filters use the
same filtration media to do the job, and filter out
at least 70 percent of the particles that are 30
microns or larger, and 85 percent of the
particles that are 40 microns or larger.
• Large filter: P/N 15400-PLC-004,
H/C 6475834 or
P/N 15400-PLM-A01,
H/C 6446231
• Small filter: P/N 15400-PT7-005,
H/C 3630399 or
P/N 15400-P0H-305,
H/C 4908182

.

[Psyman42]

My first Honda and I am lovin it already........Had a Nissan Altima before the CRV. Oil filter position sucked big time. Seems like I won't be changing it as often but will now "look forward" to it. Oh yeah, guess what.......The CRV takes the same filter as the Altima!!!!! and I happen to have 2 left over.:D
What I find really awesome is that except for the Honda S2000, the rest of the line takes the same oil filter !!!!!!!!!!!!

my sister has a 99 altima and i just bought the 6 pack oil filter from handa...can i use those filters on the altima???

[VIVADUDE]

Hey Psyman,
If what I read is true. The CRV and my old Altima both take the Fram 7317 which should equate to the same filter in other brands also...

[VIVADUDE]

I just found out that the larger filter mentioned is the same one the Hyundai Santa Fe uses which I also have a few because my son has a Santa Fe!!!!

[GoHack]

Hey Psyman,
If what I read is true. The CRV and my old Altima both take the Fram 7317 which should equate to the same filter in other brands also...


As a warning, stay away from Fram oil filters. They are cheaply constructed, and have been known to actually disintegrate.

.

[w.troop]

Use a nice large diameter oil pan and put a lot of news papers under it to soak up any spillage. Wear nitrile rubber gloves to keep the hands clean. After the whole job is done wash the engine with engine cleaner.

[2RedV's]

To keep any splatter from occurring, simply loosen, not remove, the drain bolt and let the old oil drip out rather than pour wildly out. After it slows down (a few minutes) remove the bolt and let the rest drip out.

[Black Pearl]

I finally got the wrench light at 7772 miles. Oil life at 15%. I changed the oil and filter. Here are a couple of observations: 1) You don't need to jack the vehicle up. There is enough room to slither under. 2) As someone mentioned in an earlier post, the drain plug needs a 17 mm wrench. 3) The oil filter (not the larger S2000 filter but the standard Honda 15400-PLM-A02 filter) is 65 mm with 14 flutes. I bought a socket filter wrench from Advance Autoparts Ampro Model T70413. A band wrench may be difficult to use due to the tight quarters around the filter. 4) Tried the drip method noted above but I threaded the plug almost all the way out and it was dripping extremely slow. I then removed the plug, but tried to hold it in partially. The oil was too hot, I had to get my hand out of there and the oil shot way past the collection pan. The plug does not have much of an angle on it and it shoots straight back. A bit of a mess, but sure felt good to get my hand out of that hot oil. 5) I am not sure that an 80 mm S2000 filter will work on the 2007 engine. There is a shroud surrounding the oil filter on the filter mount housing. The 80 mm filter is almost 5/8 of an inch larger in diameter (5/16 on each side), and I am not sure the filter would fit inside the flange. See photos.
6) I am not sure why the manual makes a big deal about the 4.4 quarts. I put in 4 quarts and carefully measured .4 quart. The oil level was on the bottom mark of the dipstick after running the engine. I added the remainder of the fifth quart and the oil level was still about 1/3 the way down from the upper mark (the same place it was when it was new). 6) I had a little difficulty resetting the oil minder, I followed the directions in the manual and it did not reset the first attempt. I am not sure what I did differently on the second attempt but it reset.

[06whtcrv]

I finally got the wrench light at 7772 miles. Oil life at 15%. I changed the oil and filter. Here are a couple of observations: 1) You don't need to jack the vehicle up. There is enough room to slither under. 2) As someone mentioned in an earlier post, the drain plug needs a 17 mm wrench. 3) The oil filter (not the larger S2000 filter but the standard Honda 15400-PLM-A02 filter) is 65 mm with 14 flutes. I bought a socket filter wrench from Advance Autoparts Ampro Model T70413. A band wrench may be difficult to use due to the tight quarters around the filter. 4) Tried the drip method noted above but I threaded the plug almost all the way out and it was dripping extremely slow. I then removed the plug, but tried to hold it in partially. The oil was too hot, I had to get my hand out of there and the oil shot way past the collection pan. The plug does not have much of an angle on it and it shoots straight back. A bit of a mess, but sure felt good to get my hand out of that hot oil. 5) I am not sure that an 80 mm S2000 filter will work on the 2007 engine. There is a shroud surrounding the oil filter on the filter mount housing. The 80 mm filter is almost 5/8 of an inch larger in diameter (5/16 on each side), and I am not sure the filter would fit inside the flange. See photos.
6) I am not sure why the manual makes a big deal about the 4.4 quarts. I put in 4 quarts and carefully measured .4 quart. The oil level was on the bottom mark of the dipstick after running the engine. I added the remainder of the fifth quart and the oil level was still about 1/3 the way down from the upper mark (the same place it was when it was new). 6) I had a little difficulty resetting the oil minder, I followed the directions in the manual and it did not reset the first attempt. I am not sure what I did differently on the second attempt but it reset.
Great pictures of the oil filter housing - and no the larger diameter filter will not fit.

[2RedV's]

That shroud sure is a close fit to the filter.
For those with the 1st or 2nd gen, remember that you have to use the older model S2000 filter, not the current/newer filter.

[revel22]

wow, I wouldn't use an S2000 oil filter on my CRV. I own both cars bought new in fact and have supplies of filters specific to each. The S2k filter would seem to me to have different flow rates, etc specifically for that engine and may cause problems on the CRV. It's not worth the risk.

[sleeksilver]

wow, I wouldn't use an S2000 oil filter on my CRV. I own both cars bought new in fact and have supplies of filters specific to each. The S2k filter would seem to me to have different flow rates, etc specifically for that engine and may cause problems on the CRV. It's not worth the risk.

There is no risk at all, it is just a bigger filter...

In our minds bigger filter = more filter media = better filtration.

[HandA]

Honda had a blip in their Service news in 2004 about using the PCX filter on other models:
http://www.HandA-Accessories.com/pcx.gif

-Trevor

http://www.HandA-Accessories.com/handa-logo-sml.jpg (http://www.HandA-Accessories.com)
Genuine Factory Honda CRV Accessories (http://www.handa-accessories.com/)

[88civicb16]

Ok this only works if you have 3 cars and only 2 people driving I park the one i'm doing the oil change on in the garage. I pull the drain plug and let it drip for 24 hours. When i take off the filter it is bone dry.

[barrys]

The 3rd gen V filter is perfectly vertical. So, the filter on that car will not drain no matter how long you let the oil drain from the drip hole unless there's some siphon effect going on which would be interesting.

[kanundrum]

SO I have a 2010 CRV EXL and I will be doing my first oil change eventually. I know the process is easy but when should I do the first oil change at?

I was thinking 1000miles or so, just get a normal oem filter and use some Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Oil for my car from now on

What do you guys suggest ?

I heard Penzoil is better for honda engines from BTOG but I wanted to go synthetic, Should I go synthetic later on or earlier on ?

[barrys]

3k crept up on me quickly so I'll be changing mine as soon as I get my filter wrench from HandA. I read lots of posts here and on other Honda forums and it seems it's not worth trying to save 15.00 by going with the autozone 65-67mm wrench. I don't have any source for a real 65mm, all metal fliter wrench near me so I'll bite the bullet and buy the OEM one.

For oil, read all the posts and be confused then "follow your heart." :)

[Oldengineer]

SO I have a 2010 CRV EXL and I will be doing my first oil change eventually. I know the process is easy but when should I do the first oil change at?

I was thinking 1000miles or so, just get a normal oem filter and use some Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Oil for my car from now on

What do you guys suggest ?

I heard Penzoil is better for honda engines from BTOG but I wanted to go synthetic, Should I go synthetic later on or earlier on ?

I have a 2010 as well. I'm going to run the original factory fill down to 20% life before I change it. The reason - I want to make sure the engine is fully broken in before I hit it with synthetic oil like Mobil 1. The only 0W-20 oil available in my area is Mobil 1 or the Honda oil from the dealer. I'm either going to use Purolator or OEM filters. I have not see any Penzoil in the correct weight in any of the local Advance or Autozone stores.

Regards:
Oldengineer

[barrys]

Just curious...
Why are you going to run a 0W-20 oil when the recommended viscosity rating is 5W-20?

[lizzurd]

Just curious...
Why are you going to run a 0W-20 oil when the recommended viscosity rating is 5W-20?

Honda switched to 0W20 for the 2010 CRV.

[barrys]

That's a good answer. Scared me since I just bought 10 quarts of 5-20 yesterday.

[lizzurd]

That's a good answer. Scared me since I just bought 10 quarts of 5-20 yesterday.

Talking to my Mobile 1 rep last week about stocking some 0w20 and his thoughts were to just use 5w20 in its place. In the grand scheme of things he feels it won't really make that much of a difference.

This backs up what we discussed:

Question: My owners manual specifies 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil. Do I really need to use 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil and why did my 2000 model year vehicle require a 5W-30 oil, while the exact same engine in my 2001, 2002 and newer engines "requires" a 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil?

Answer: NO! You do not need to use a 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil.The main reason 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil was specified for your engine is to increase the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the Federal Government. CAFE is the combined average fuel economy of all of a vehicle manufacturers product line. Minimum CAFE levels are specified by the Federal Government. In order for a vehicle manufacturer to continue selling profitable large trucks and SUV's, which typically have poor fuel mileage ratings, as compared to smaller cars, and still meet mandated CAFE requirements, they must also sell enough of the smaller cars which have much better fuel economy ratings to offset the poor fuel economy ratings of the larger vehicles. For model year 2001, the change to a 5W-20 oil will allow Honda and Ford's overall CAFE to increase by a very small amount, typically in the tenths of a mile per gallon range. 5W-20 oil is a lighter viscosity than a 5W-30 oil and therefore has less internal engine frictional losses, or less drag on the crankshaft, pistons and valvetrain, which in turn promotes increased fuel economy. This increased fuel economy is virtually undetectable to the average motorist without the use of specialized engine monitoring and testing equipment under strictly controlled test track driving when compared to a 5W-30, 10W-30 or a 0W-30 viscosity motor oil.

[barrys]

> Sometime getting the wrong information can be worse than not getting any information at all.

Amen brother....

[recyclingbin06]

I don't even bother with changing the oil myself.

My dealer does it for $24.95 and I get a free car wash. Plus every 6 change is Free. So I think this is the best route.

[barrys]

My dealer charges 34.95 + tax and I can't stand them. I wish I liked them enough to do it myself but they have lied to my face so many times I've lost count. I know not all the dealers are like that but I didn't get lucky on that.

[toca]

I don't even bother with changing the oil myself.

My dealer does it for $24.95 and I get a free car wash. Plus every 6 change is Free. So I think this is the best route.

Let's assume you drive 18,000 miles per year and you change your oil every 3,000 miles. Let's also assume a car wash (without getting out of the car) is $5.

Using the above as a basis:
$24.95 x 5 (the oil changes you paid for)= $124.75
$124.75 ÷ 6 (6th one's free) = $20.80
$20.80 - $5 (car wash) = $15.80 for 6 oil changes

Indeed that is the best route.

Oh, BTW, slow day at the office

[barrys]

That's cheaper than the oil without the filter. It's also cheaper than I can get the oil change for. I like an excuse to look under the hood a few times a year too and doing an oil change (which takes less time than just driving to and from the shop) is a good excuse for me.

Also, everyone's right on the 5 quarts. 4.5 just barely got me to the lowest indicator on dipstick.

[73stallion]

i know i'm chiming in late here, but here's my input.

that tool H and A sells can be more of a PITA than it's worth. i used it sometimes when i worked at the honda dealer, only on V6 cars usually (accord, and the trucks and SUV's). even the civic Si has it's only oil deflector for the filter because it's so tight.

anyway, the dealer bought 55 gallon drums of brake cleaner, the techs had their own pressurized cans we filled with the brake clean and we cleaned the excess oil off the block with that. made life much easier. my favorite car to change the oil on was the new civic because there's nothing under the filter for oil to run on.

bottom of this page, MA1000;
http://www.gomatco.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2248&page=1竓

[barrys]

I'm not sure if you're talking about the oil drip deflector tool or the filter wrench. I bought the filter wrench which was expensive. But, it worked great and made the oil change a "one wrench" job since it takes the same 17mm wrench as the drain plug. The drip deflector did seem a little silly to me but I'm not a honda tech.

[73stallion]

well, not even us techs bought the honda filter wrench. we usually bought a better one from snap on or matco. these seemed to be a favorite, and i still use mine on my V.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1224

[barrys]

I saw that one and it looked cool and versatile. But, my other car works really well with just going hand tight on the filter and then I can remove by hand. It's a Ford Ranger and getting any wrench to its filter location would be damn near impossible.
I do like the Honda one even though it's going to take me a few oil changes to pay it off.