Curt Mfg. vs. Hidden Hitch (Class III)

[Binky]

Would those of you who have installed a Hidden Hitch or Curt Manufacturing class III hitch please share your experiences and observations based upon the following concerns?

I plan to add either the Curt (#13555) or Hidden Hitch (#87440) class III hitch to haul 2 - 4 mountain bikes or a small trailer for my kayaks. Vertical load strength is a primary concern with the higher tongue weight associated with hauling 4 bikes. (please - no lectures from legalists on posted recommended limitations - I'm already aware of them). The hitch must mount as close to the under-carriage as possible to avoid reducing ground clearance.

I have noticed many class I hitches have been bent downward - presumably due to exceeding the hitches vertical load capability or bouncing down the road with a high tongue weight.

My question is this: Have any Curt hitch owners experienced "hitch droop" with their hitch while carrying higher tongue weight?

The Curt hitch has a passenger-side mounting bracket (http://www.hitchsource.com/docs/cu/13555.pdf), by design, which is significantly more narrow than that of the Hidden Hitch model (http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fitguides/pdf/N87440.pdf). It wouldn't appear to limit horizontal strength - the primary concern with a trailer hitch - but it could limit the vertical load capability with a hitch-mounted 4 bike carrier that I use (Saris).

To exemplify this weakness: Some posters have even received and posted pics (http://www.hondasuv.com/members/attachment.php?attachmentid=11904&d=1189969698) of their Curt hitch with the passenger-side mount bent during shipping. Which demonstrates more than a suspicion the Curt hitch has a weakness. The Hidden Hitch design looks much less prone to flexing vertically with heavier loads due to the broader mounting plate used to attach the hitch to the frame on that side.

Any suggestions?

[2RedV's]

I think the "hitch-droop" issue would only be with those people that have the factory hitch or a similar designed hitch in the 1.25" variety. The Curt, Hidden and Valley hitches all bolt to the actual rear subframe rather than the underside of the spare tire well. Although not a 2007, my 99's Curt hitch has been put to some rather extreme tests - I have even pulled a couple of cars out of a snowy ditch. While pulling is a different type of force than the downward force you are describing, I certainly would not have done this with the factory hitch. I have heard of factory hitch-styled CR-V owners bending the tire well simply by having a 3-4 bike rack on the back. The down force that is leveraged by a 2+ foot long bike rack with 4 bikes on a 1.25" hitch is the reason. It acts a giant lever and easily goes past those hitches 100 pound limitations.

I can JUMP up and down on my Curt Brute Force 2" receiver model and nothing happens except the entire car moves up and down. I weigh about 200 pounds.

The Curt, Hidden and Valley designs for 1997-2008 2" receivers are all similar.

[Badgerland]

I think the "hitch-droop" issue would only be with those people that have the factory hitch or a similar designed hitch in the 1.25" variety. The Curt, Hidden and Valley hitches all bolt to the actual rear subframe rather than the underside of the spare tire well. Although not a 2007, my 99's Curt hitch has been put to some rather extreme tests - I have even pulled a couple of cars out of a snowy ditch. While pulling is a different type of force than the downward force you are describing, I certainly would not have done this with the factory hitch. I have heard of factory hitch-styled CR-V owners bending the tire well simply by having a 3-4 bike rack on the back. The down force that is leveraged by a 2+ foot long bike rack with 4 bikes on a 1.25" hitch is the reason. It acts a giant lever and easily goes past those hitches 100 pound limitations.

Interesting!? I have the OEM hitch and use a 2" adapter to allow my hitch-hauler to mount onto my hitch. I have had 200# of stuff loaded onto this and driven several 1100 mile trips with no ill effects or bending.

[RinconVTR]

The 2" hitches for the CR-V are good for 350 lbs of vertical "tongue weight", and they are the only versions not to clamp on the tow hook for those vertical forces.

There are warnings for many 1-1/4" hitches not to use bike racks for the exact reasons you state seeing and experiencing.

The important thing to know and understand in your case of bike racks, is that hitches are rated separately from the make manufactures rating, and often differ with a disclaimer to "always follow the mfg rec's".

In short, you on the right track buying either 2" receiver hitch for use with bike racks, it gives you an easy 150lb+ of tongue/vertical load capacity. (you'll still need to watch how long the rack is along with the gross weight, as mentioned!)

[2RedV's]

My Curt on the 99 does use the tow hook as a secondary strength point. It is the "updated" model.

[RinconVTR]

Interesting, never have seen a 2" hitch use the tow hook on any make or model. Interesting.

[Binky]

Interesting, never have seen a 2" hitch use the tow hook on any make or model. Interesting.

There are a number of class III hitches which add the tow hook as a third anchor point including the Curt Manufacturing (http://www.hitchsource.com/docs/cu/13555.pdf) no. 13555 and Draw-Tite 44575.

[Edd]

My Valley class-3 just arrived the other day from eTrailer.com.
I installed it by myself this morning. Pretty easy job, although I could have used an extra hand to simply help support it while bolting it on. Dropping and raising the muffler is a PIA, but not difficult.

The Valley appears to be good quality and has nice snug tolerances. I like that the tow hook is used as an additional mounting point.

[kipnita]

The Curt (13555?) is STOUT. It uses the tow loop as additional center support. I can jump up and down on the receiver (I weigh 260#) with absolutely no deflection of the hitch - the entire vehicle moves up/down. I haven't towed yet but intend to use the 2" receiver with a bike rack and a hitchhaul type carrier. I do not anticipate any issues.

[RinconVTR]

There are a number of class III hitches which add the tow hook as a third anchor point including the Curt Manufacturing (http://www.hitchsource.com/docs/cu/13555.pdf) no. 13555 and Draw-Tite 44575.

I see whats going on here...while its true to my knowledge 2" hitches dont use tow hooks because they are Class 3 hitches normally. But today, the 2" size is desired more and more, for use of accesories.

2" hitch used to go hand in hand with a Class 3 rating, and tow hooks were normally removed, sometimes the threaded holes used though. I guess I've been out of the business too long! Thanks for pointing this out.

In any event though, it is a 2" hitch, but not Class 3.

[Binky]

Most 2 inch receiver hitches are rated as class 3 by their respective manufacturers. A common point of contention is whether the V can safely or competently tow class 3 (300/3,000 lbs.) trailers.

(I don't have a dog in that fight...)

[Biker1651]

I just installed the curt class III hitch, Nice hitch, easy install and strong very happy with it Biker1651:)

[kenl]

I installed a hidden hitch, on my06 v, it bolts to the frame holes , looked at all, chose the hidden hitch,cause it rides higher and sits back a liter more,you really don't see it, so the name hidden hitch,, its rated at 200lbs t.w. and 3,500 for towing, so you can slip a 2inch adp, into it for a bike rack..also installed the wiring kit... kal:cool:

[jamadeacs]

I asked a local man that installs hitches and he said they are both made by the same company.

[whoa]

Will the new CRV's frame be able to withstand the force of a loaded four bike hitch rack on a class III hitch? I have my doubts. I read in another forum (HONDASUV) that someone had a look at the underside of one and this is what he said:

"Having looked at the rails pretty thoroughly, there's very little there to hold the hitch on. Not to mention, most hitches are held in place by 4-6 bolts. The areas that a hitch mounts too are reinforced, but not by much. personally, I'd be very hesitant to exceed that weight, and should honda find out that you have, say goodbye to any suspension, transmission and engine warranty".

Assuming the hitch rack weighs 50-60lbs and 4 bikes at 25-30lbs each, this puts a downward force of about 180lbs. Hit a bump on a road and you're probably talking double the force at any given time. Maybe, I'm being overly simplistic, but doesn't the manufacturer's TW spec take precedence over that of the hitch? After all, the hitch's TW spec is only as good as the vehicle's frame. Any thoughts?

[whoa]

Anyone?...

[EternalCRV]

Maybe, I'm being overly simplistic, but doesn't the manufacturer's TW spec take precedence over that of the hitch? After all, the hitch's TW spec is only as good as the vehicle's frame. Any thoughts?

You are correct, the CRV specs should be followed over the hitch manufacturer spec on tongue weight.

If you are using a class 3 2" receiver. I wouldn't worry about the 180# of tongue weight. The forces may be higher while driving but this is true on any trailer towing experience. As far as I know, not one hitch manufacturer has a big formula to calculate this extra force. So they and Honda only go by the tongue wieght at standstill, not what they could be if you hit a bump ____ inches high.

[brebro]

I asked a local man that installs hitches and he said they are both made by the same company.

My local installer told me the same thing.

If that's true then why the price difference on places like Etrailer that list the Hidden Hitch 87440 2" for $158 and the Curt 13555 2" for $182? They certainly look different, as these photos show:

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6141/hhvscvsvvsrcompare.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hhvscvsvvsrcompare.jpg)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5005/hhvscvsvcompare2.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hhvscvsvcompare2.jpg)

My local installer said I could have the one he has in stock for the 2009 CR-V (did not say what brand it was but may be Reese since that's the name of the business, I bet it is this Reese Towpower 44575 (http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-44575-Professional-Receiver/dp/B0016KFVY8/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001) I found on Amazon) installed for $200 even ($150 for the receiver, $50 for the labor). He says the instructions he has claim the cross bar WOULD be visible but I would like just the receiver hitch showing, so I'm not sure if I should try to order the hidden hitch and do it myself or just get the one available locally installed. The main thing is I want it as far in and up from the ground as possible, but I don't know if there truly is a difference in the brands. I'm considering the cheaper Valley 82163 because not only is it cheaper (less than $130 shipped at Amazon) but it weighs 10 pounds less than the Hidden Hitch and 20 pounds less than the Curt.

[Serj22]

The main thing is I want it as far in and up from the ground as possible, but I don't know if there truly is a difference in the brands.

IF you put the receiver too high, you might risk bumper folding and breakage when coming over speed bumps or off the decline of a hill, when towing something. The hitch needs a little play if you plan on towing big stuff.

[brebro]

I plan on only using it for a hitch-mounted bike rack with 2-4 bikes. Previously, I have this type of mount on a minivan and the weight of the fully loaded van and the addition of the bike rack and bikes made the ground clearance of the hitch only a couple of inches and I was hoping to avoid this on the CR-V. (But not at the expense of harming the bumper or any other component, thanks for the info.)

EDIT: the Valley seems to have held up on a 1,000 mile round trip with the Thule 4-bike rack I put on it (only carried two bikes though). The only ground clearance issue occurred coming back to the mountains and leaving a steep hill parking lot where I heard it briefly scrape the asphalt, but other than that I had no problems with it at all.

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3315/img2175v.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/img2175v.jpg/)

[drameden]

I plan on only using it for a hitch-mounted bike rack with 2-4 bikes. Previously, I have this type of mount on a minivan and the weight of the fully loaded van and the addition of the bike rack and bikes made the ground clearance of the hitch only a couple of inches and I was hoping to avoid this on the CR-V. (But not at the expense of harming the bumper or any other component, thanks for the info.)

EDIT: the Valley seems to have held up on a 1,000 mile round trip with the Thule 4-bike rack I put on it (only carried two bikes though). The only ground clearance issue occurred coming back to the mountains and leaving a steep hill parking lot where I heard it briefly scrape the asphalt, but other than that I had no problems with it at all.

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3315/img2175v.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/img2175v.jpg/)

Bebro,
I have the same application need -- to accept a bike rack for my recumbent trike. Due to the width of the trike, however, the rack extends farther (creating more leverage). Looking at your picture of the Valley hitch, it seems to sag a bit with the load on. Is that true or just a bad angle on the picture?

[drameden]

My local installer told me the same thing.

If that's true then why the price difference on places like Etrailer that list the Hidden Hitch 87440 2" for $158 and the Curt 13555 2" for $182? They certainly look different, as these photos show:

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6141/hhvscvsvvsrcompare.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hhvscvsvvsrcompare.jpg)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5005/hhvscvsvcompare2.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hhvscvsvcompare2.jpg)

My local installer said I could have the one he has in stock for the 2009 CR-V (did not say what brand it was but may be Reese since that's the name of the business, I bet it is this Reese Towpower 44575 (http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-44575-Professional-Receiver/dp/B0016KFVY8/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001) I found on Amazon) installed for $200 even ($150 for the receiver, $50 for the labor). He says the instructions he has claim the cross bar WOULD be visible but I would like just the receiver hitch showing, so I'm not sure if I should try to order the hidden hitch and do it myself or just get the one available locally installed. The main thing is I want it as far in and up from the ground as possible, but I don't know if there truly is a difference in the brands. I'm considering the cheaper Valley 82163 because not only is it cheaper (less than $130 shipped at Amazon) but it weighs 10 pounds less than the Hidden Hitch and 20 pounds less than the Curt.

Brebro,
Thanks for the great pictures. On the botton row of side by side views of installed hitches, which ones are which?

From L to R, is it 1. Curt 2. Hidden Hitch and 3. Valley?

Thanks.

[kw_da]

left to right Hidden - Curt - Valley

You can see the text on the hitches - left is definitely Hidden, right is definitely Valley (I have this one)

:)

[motoguy128]

When I get my CR-V, I want to install the Valley Class III with the integrated plug and wiring. It would be nice not having wires dangling out of the trunk when towing.

I agree, the Class III hitches are mounted much more securely and most don't seem to require enlarging holes in the frame like the Class I/II hitches do.

Although from the photos, the Hidden Hithc does seem tucked-up a little higher. IF that jsut from the angle the photos are taken? the Hiddne hitch just looks like it's tucked up a littl etigher.


FYI - the last Curt hitch I had, rusted away in less than 2 years. Very poor paint job or pretreatment. More than half the paint flaked off. I live in Iowa where some road salt is used, but not nearly as much as most Metro areas in the north such as Chicago or Detroit.

[motoguy128]

I ordered the Hidden Hitch and wiring kit.

I also ordered a reciever mounted tow hook and a tow strap. I figure if I end up in a ditch this winter, it might make getting out easier. Seems like SUV's are ditch magnets...too much traction and overconfidence I think. I could also use it to help rescue soemone else if needed.

[brebro]

Bebro,
I have the same application need -- to accept a bike rack for my recumbent trike. Due to the width of the trike, however, the rack extends farther (creating more leverage). Looking at your picture of the Valley hitch, it seems to sag a bit with the load on. Is that true or just a bad angle on the picture?


With the way the Valley hitch attaches to the tow hook, there's not any way for it to sag. There may be a slight downward tilt that already exists (or it may exist on the old Thule bike rack I am using that is attached to the Valley hitch) and lengthening it with a long bike rack arm would continue that trajectory, but I also think the photo seems distorted due to the wide angle (fish-eye) lens on the camera I used to take the photo.

[motoguy128]

I instaleld the Hidden Hitch Class III with eh round tubes yesterday. Compared to my last 4 cars, it was a piece of cake. No drilling, wiring harness plugged right in, and the exhaust came right off the hangers with a little soapy water.

It took me about 1 hour. By comparison, the hitch on my Nissan Versa, including wiring and drilling was about a 4 hour project.

It'a very, very sturdy hitch. I bought a large eye bolt that goes into the reciever and a tow strap as well. I don't plan to do any off roading, but I figure I could use it to pull the V out of a ditch or pull out another car.