CTDI oil usage

[Jimbo_EX]

Just wondering how others are finding oil consumption on the 2.2 CTDI. Before buying the car I read that the oil consumption was high. After owning 2 Hondas I wasnt suprised. Ive just needed to put a litre in after 5.5k miles, which has topped it up from just above minimum.
How does this compare with anyone elses experience?

[Hughesy]

My 2.2 CTDI has about 3,000 miles and oil still sitting on the top level.

Previously I had a 2.2 CTDI Accord. It used about a litre of oil in 15k miles.

I don't think the Honda engine is that different from other modern turbo diesels.
It is a problem that there is no oil level gauge, so you have to check the dip stick regularly.

[jamesb101]

I got my CRV with 5K on the clock & just got to 11300miles & had to put in anout 300ML oil.
On the subject of oil i've found Lucas fully synthetic @£30.00 / 5L what's anyone else using ?

[Jimbo_EX]

I got my CRV with 5K on the clock & just got to 11300miles & had to put in anout 300ML oil.
On the subject of oil i've found Lucas fully synthetic @£30.00 / 5L what's anyone else using ?

I put in Castol 0w 30 fully synthetic. I think the Honda recommends castrol sticker must have worked on my subconcious;)

[Red916]

Not quite an answer, but I do have the same engine in my 8th gen Civic, and the same question has been asked quite a few times about that one :)

Mine needed a gulg (good technical term) at about 10K miles, and hasn't used hardly a drop since.

Now on 35K miles, and level is half way between min and max, so it'll get replaced again at the next service in a few weeks :)

The vast majority of (on-line) Civic owners report similar, although one or two have experienced worse oil usage, but they are in the tiny minority :)


PS - Civic is going back to lease co in a few months, and CRV is currently top of the replacement list :)
(yes, 2.2 again :wink: )

[Jimbo_EX]

Cheers.
You may get a CRV with the new I-DTEC engine by then?...

[Red916]

I thought they were only putting the i-dtec in the Accord to begin with?

Though to be honest, I hadn't been keeping track of what was happeneing with the CRV until this week...

The i-dtec oringinally sounded fantastic - 180bhp was being banded about - but the one slated for the Accord is going to be 'only' about 150 now apparently.

With the current 2.2, the tuners took about a year to get on board with it, and are now safely (or safe so far - no news of knackered clutches to date) getting 192bhp from it :D

But if it takes them another year / 18 months to get to grips with the i-dtec, it'll be almost time for me to give it back again LOL

[Red916]

Sorry, going a bit off topic now :o

We've just driven Honda's new iDTEC diesel engine installed in the current Accord. This will go on sale as the range-topping diesel unit in the all-new Accord due next summer.

It's still a 2.2-litre, but heavily modified, with improved combustion and a particulate filter. And this time round there will be two states of tune: the lower-powered one promises around 155bhp and will also have the option of an auto 'box for the first time. The meatier engine is likely to be a manual-only at launch, and you'll get 180bhp to play with.

Autocar - Driven: 2008 Accord iDTEC (http://www.autocar.co.uk/News/NewsArticle.aspx?AR=228799) for full story

so it looks like my memory failed again - 180bhp is still apparently planned (if you believe AutoCar anyway)

Although the current Accord brochure is still only showing the 140, so not sure when the i-dtec will land...

[Jimbo_EX]

Honda (UK) New Accord (http://www.honda.co.uk/newaccord/)

The specifications section shows the accord available with the i-DTEC from launch. The i-CTDI engine was launched with the current Accord, then filtered into the Civic/CRV ranges, so it may well be 09 before the either one appears in the CRV.

[Red916]

good spot - I hadn't looked at the micro site! :o

looks like only 150PS at launch though :(

[stan]

I am hoping that a warning light comes on when I need to add oil - I wasnt planning on adding any unless it told me!!!!

also does anyone know if you get a service light on the car or do you have to remember the intervals?

[Jimbo_EX]

You have to remember. Although as you get near 12 months the dealership send you a letter.
There is an oil warning light, but as Honda engines tend to drink oil (relative to other makes) Id check it every few weeks just to be on the safe side. My oil dropped to just above the minimum mark and i didnt get a light..I think its best to consider the light as a last resort safety net..

[Hughesy]

The oil light is low pressure, not low level. If the oil light comes on you need to pretty much pull over.
Unfortunately the only way to check the oil level is with the dip stick.

[stan]

I dont think I will get to 12 months - I am on almost 6500 miles and I got the car on 8th February!

I better check the oil sometime then!

[Hughesy]

I dont think I will get to 12 months - I am on almost 6500 miles and I got the car on 8th February!

I better check the oil sometime then!


Isn't there a sticker that says to check the oil level each time you fill up with fuel?
On my old Accord with the same engine, there were two stickers (windscreen and inside the door) that said to check the oil level daily when cold. They must have been having a laugh, I was glad to see the CR-V sticker was more sensible.

[Jimbo_EX]

There were some engine failures on the accord because the engines were running dry of oil within a few thousand miles. The CRV does have the stickers - I think they recommend checking oil when refuelling, as did the handbooks for my Civic Type R and petrol Accord.

[Hughesy]

I just bought some Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0W-30 fully synthetic oil at Halfords: £14.99 for one litre.
That's pretty expensive! But there are few oils on the market that meet the requirements.
I think the Honda dealers have similar Castrol oil without the name, its probably the same stuff.

[stan]

There were some engine failures on the accord because the engines were running dry of oil within a few thousand miles. The CRV does have the stickers - I think they recommend checking oil when refuelling, as did the handbooks for my Civic Type R and petrol Accord.

I checked mine and it has a sticker - it recommends that you check everytime you fill up with fuel - that just aint practical - I am at the petrol station nearly every other day!

almost 8500 miles on the car now - did check the oil last weekend and its at the full mark (phew!)

[Jimbo_EX]

I just bought some Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0W-30 fully synthetic oil at Halfords: £14.99 for one litre.
That's pretty expensive! But there are few oils on the market that meet the requirements.
I think the Honda dealers have similar Castrol oil without the name, its probably the same stuff.

Thats the oil ive topped up with. Since then my average mpg has risen from 35 to 37+ with no difference in fuel, driving style, routes etc.

[DaveC]

I just bought some Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0W-30 fully synthetic oil at Halfords: £14.99 for one litre.
That's pretty expensive! ...

I bought some of that last week too. £43.99 for four litres = £10.99/litre !
That's quite a shock when I was getting oil for the RX8 in bulk @ £3.50/litre. Mind you, I suspect it will last longer in the V :)

[Hughesy]

Liquid gold.

[davidamacphee]

I've had the low oil light (Orange not red) come on twice...previously had a highly tuned CTR that reved to 9200rpm. It used less oil than my CRV.

And before anyone says I should check with the dip stick, I do. But when storming through Europe and near the top end for a hour after hour it burns oil quicker than I'd have thought possible.

[Jimbo_EX]

whats youe mileage. Mine wnt from full to empty by 4.5 k miles on the clock, but from 4.5 to 11k miles never used a drop

[davidamacphee]

I'm now at 22k...I had the CRv for a rear diff problem, mentioned that in addition, I'm surprised that it's drinking over a litre ever 5k. I was told this is an acceptable consumption amount.

Acceptable to them maybe, but not me.

[Davy]

My 55 plate Accord ictdi was serviced 3 times over 2 years of ownership with only 15000 miles done and between services I put a total of 1 litre of oil in myself to keep it topped up. I doubt I really needed to put any in as I could have left it to go nearer the min mark between services.

I guess any diesel vehicle owner knows the term 'oil burner' and it's just good sense to check the oil regularly especially if your a high milage driver.
I don't think Hondas are much different to any other make when it comes to oil consumption.

I've recently bought a 06 CR-V ictdi and while on holiday I did just under 1000 miles and after checking the oil it needed a gulg (good technical term) '®™Red916'

A friend of mine who drives a Volkswagon Caddy for his buisiness says he has to top it up with oil once a month.

[Demonstarter]

I have a 2008 ex 2.0 auto which is requiring topping up every 500 miles I am now at the stage of rejecting the car but obviously the dealer is not too keen. The vehicle has only done 4000 miles and the first issue raised its head at 1300 miles and has continued to get worse---no oil leaks and no blue smoke---anyone any ideas as the dealer has not

I also have wind noise coming from high up on drivers side plus squeling brakes when weather conditions dry----- my first and last Honda

A fed up scotsman

[Radar24]

I had a 74 Volvo 142 I bought it from a couple with ~109k miles just 2 years old. I picked it up for $1600 I think??? Built like a little tank and it ran great! Supposedly a bullet proof lower end but with soft cams in some cases. Now comes the but part:

The original owner said new it would hardly do 1200 miles per quart since new. Volvo’s position was any consumption better than 600 miles a quart was within normal range. That was typical for other manufacturers too at the time.

Normal! Yeah right!

I could not pass it up so I bought it. I knew how well made these Volvos were compared to Fords and Chevys. The Volvo safety cage reputation and 4 wheel disc brakes setup so even with a failure of 1/2 the master cylinder it still had 3 out of the 4 wheels braking. And it was the best I could afford.

Oil consumption:
The only symptom was a small puff of smoke when decelerating or down shifting the manual 4sp to stop. Other than that no other signs of using oil. No leaks of any consequence. You should check your V with a chase vehicle for smoke as the oil has to go somewhere! Under what condition exactly does it smoke! This will help diagnose.

Any way burning went on until the third valve job was done at close to 200k miles. When you burn that much oil, carbon deposits build up on the head and valves. If any pieces of carbon break off (as they normally do) they can get stuck between the valve and the valve seat. The resultant as you guessed it is a burned valve, seat or both. The original owner had one; I had two more on two different occasions. So something was definitely causing the valves to burn.

Such was the diagnosis by two engineer co-workers that were automotive gurus. In any case the diagnosis fit the actual observation well. That was carbon build up, puffs of smoke visible only by a chasse vehicle when decelerating. No smoke clouds definitely seen in the rear view mirrors.

The second valve job (my first) I changed all of the valve guides and the valves on the theory that the guide clearance could be the problem. It was near or greater than the max clearance specified when measured. It was a theory consistent with the oil getting sucked into the head past the seal and guides during high vacuum while decelerating or down shifting.

Anyhow the full blown valve job did not help much with oil consumption as it turned out. It went from 600 to maybe 800-1000 miles. By now the car had about 165k miles when it burned valve number 2. As a result of all that carbon build up the burned valves were collateral damage so the theory went.

So 600 mile/qt of oil consumption has consequences. It is not normal! If it was my new V doing so I would be outraged.

Now the new theory was that the crosshatch pattern was not properly done.Instead it was lightly cross hatched for driving in the autobahn at high speed. Better to use oil than to blow the engine driving at 5k rpm for hours. That was the theory.This was a pushrod engine with redline under 6k RPM. With top speed near 100 MPH and 5k RPM. The added oil consumption helping out. Yes the theory was a little iffy buy plausible.

At burned valve number 3 near 200k miles it was using a quart every 450 miles! :eek:
I took the head off and the pistons out. Bingo, the cross hatch pattern was hardly visible the entire length of the cylinder wall. Near the acceptable limits where worn the most near the top ½ inch or so of the cylinder wall. So I just re crosshatched the cylinder walls and put in new rings, main bearings, cam bearings, oil pump gears and seals or gaskets...every possible seal I could possibly change. The engine was in excellent shape otherwise (B1800 ?) when disassembled. No cracks were found on the block after testing. The bottom 2/3 of the cylinder wall showed practically no wear. The piston ring groove wear was acceptable too. The ring gap was slightly over spec but not nothing that a new set of rings would not fix. Even though the top of the cylinder wall was worn near the limit at the top of the cylinder wall (actual wear and taper was about .006-010”). Possibly accelerated by carbon build up and resulting abrasions.

I just quit at that point and changed no more parts and reassembled it.

TADA! The oil consumption went from 450 to ~3,500 miles per quart!

So oil pumping (as I believe it is called when cylinder wall taper causes oil consumption) was not a major contributor to any significant degree. A consumption of 3500 miles per quart of oil in those days was not bad at all! I would have reduced the oil pumping somewhat by putting in new pistons in perfectly honed and parallel cylinder walls but after all the car had 200k miles. It would have been overkill in my opinion to put that much effort and money into it.

It took me about 6 years from the time I bought it to solve the oil consumption problem to a tolerable level. The crosshatch pattern all along could have been the majority of the problem for driving in the US. Or just a poorly machined cylinder wall. It was hard to tell. No manufacturer is perfect.

I drove it for possibly another 35,000 miles with no further issues with the engine before selling it. At more than twice that of what I paid for it 8 years earlier to another family looking for affordable Volvo safety. About ten years before the Gen-1 CR-V ever came out in the US market.

Conclusion:
1) 500-600 miles per quart is not normal!
2) Something was wrong all along from day one in the Volvo’s case! Most likely in yours.
3) It is either :
a. The oil control rings
b. Valve stem to guide clearance or seals
c. Cross hatch of the cylinder walls was improperly manufactured. A case where more crosshatch results in more effective oil control. Since it was like that since new it cannot be attributed to wear.
d. A host of other possibilities I am not familiar enough with on the V were oil is sucked into the combustion chamber from one or more pollution control devices or ports.
4) Honda should put in a new head and/or engine depending on where the problem is

Nobody is perfect. Do you quit being a fan of your favorite team that has been number 1 over 50% of the time just because during the last world championship match or game they choked? Or in this case sucked? :)

Get the regional customer service manager involved if the dealers cannot fix or find the problem.

Complain, complain, complain! Do not take no for an answer. Escalate until you get it resolved.

If all else fails get a lawyer or the authorities involved or sell it and pass the problem on to some sucker. You do know about Karma? :rolleyes:

The squeaky wheel gets greased!
Good luck.

-Rg

[Jimbo_EX]

mine is the 2.2 ctdi but used all its oil on the first 4.5 k miles from new. Then went to 12k before needing a top up - the more miles it does the more the oil consuption has slowed down. My 2.0 petrol Civic type R was the same from new.
High oil consumption has long been a feature of Hondas. The handbook recomends checking the oil every time you fill up with fuel!!
When you say needs topping up every 500 miles, exactly how much has the oil level dropped in 500 miles?

[Radar24]

Of course I forgot to mention that during break in 500 miles per quart is not so abnormal or unusual. Often even more is used the first couple of K miles. But at 4k-6K miles it should be practically broken in and settling on the 'normal' usage.

At near 3k now the oil level on my '08 V is practically rock steady with no discernible usage. At first it used a quart in about 1K miles. This however was difficult to tell as E. Liberty Ohio tends not to factory fill right up to the full mark. So the reference point initially is a little wishy washy.

All in all I expect use in the range of 4k-6K miles per quart. That would be more main steam for the gas 2354 cc with the 5sp A/T. So far my V seems to fit right into the norm.

There is a normal distribution curve for oil usage I'm sure Honda could provide. If they wanted to. It is unfortunate for those at the lower end. However a lower acceptable limit must be set. More than 1 quart per tankful does not seem reasonable. At that point we are approaching a 2 cycle w!th a gas/oil mix of 50:1 automatically!

For crying out load this is a pressure lubricated 4 cycle and not an oil injected 2 cycle that are currently running at up to 100:1 and more ratio. Injected as a function of throttle, load and RPM or some combination of that.

In my case time will tell where exactly in the bell curve my V falls. :confused:
It is looking good so far! :)

-Rg

[Demonstarter]

The dealer has been in touch today and will come and take the car away in the morning, I sent a letter stating they had one more attempt to resolve the issues or they have to exchange or refund, they by getting in touch agreed to this, I have also now got Honda Customer services on the case who are being very attentive, possibly due to the threat of court action.

I will let you know how I get on---they are giving me another CRV as a replacement whilst mine is in the garage---can but hope it is better than the one I purchased

Demonstarter

[Lucky Duck]

My new EX frightened me last week by lighting the oil indicator.:eek:
I can't recall ever having this happen on any car EVER.

Mindful of friends experiences with Alfas (slurp) self-destructing through lack of oil, I very gently drove the couple of miles to the nearest place to get a top-up. Happened to be a Honda dealer. £10/litre thank-you, sir. Kerching!

Anyway, it took the full litre to get it from just above low level to max on the stick. this was at 3500miles from new.

Guess I'll be carrying a bottle around with me now.:(

LD

[Radar24]

Lucky Ducky,
I don't doubt your story, I enjoyed it. Well no it was horrible, I was on the edge of my seat. It was just the way you told it. I get a kick out of the true English. I was going to say slang but as it turns out it is the other way around?

Let me get to the point as I just keep digging a hole for myself.

I will assume a 5 qt or greater capacity on the diesel or petrol (you did not specuify). That is what it is approximately on the 2.354 Liter USA Petrol. There is much debate about the specified 4.4 qt. It seems that might be to middle of the dipstick range. Most everyone puts in 5 to the top or full mark after an oil change.

Anyhow, I do not know of any engine that has the oil light go on when only one quart low. It may. It just seems odd that with 80% of the oil in the crankcase that the pressure would drop enough so the light would go on. Not without pulling a few Gs around a turn so all the oil in the sump goes to one side or the other. An impossibility? I do not know how you drive. :) More normal is to put in 2 quarts or more to get the dipstick to the max level after the oil light goes on. That would indicate that even with 50-60% of the oil in the crankcase the engine might operate without the oil light going on consistently. Such behavior is all I have ever seen or been told about.

As a matter of fact I have been in a jam with the oil drained and only three quarts in the house. No one else home. With three out of the 5 quart capacity in the crankcase it has been enough to get the oil light to go out. I might have even driven a couple of miles to get the other two quarts without having the oil light go on. I forget. It has been a long time. Mind you this was not on a Honda.

Perhaps Honda has like a pre warning setup with two different sump oil intake levels. One for the warning light. And a lower second level for the engine itself. Such a more complicated system might not that difficult to implement with a two stage oil pump. It certainly would then be a true low level WARNING light as opposed to a OOPS! ‘YOU ARE TOTALLY SCREWED IN A FEW SECONDS' oil light.

Whenever the light comes on it indicates low oil pressure in the systems I am aware off. Under those circumstances if you drive as you did any farther than a minute (the time varies) any bearing or high stress parts like the cam lobes will eventually dry out. Having no oil film the metal to metal contact will at some point immediately wear a layer at a time at the microscopic level. Continued use will do really nasty things. Yes it might run for a while with no oil circulating, no oil pressure before quitting but the damage is there.

It might run OK at the moment but that does not mean that no damage has occurred. Instead of lasting 5000k miles as some diesels do, it might only last 300k miles. 100K? You pick a number. Your guess is as good as mine.

BTW there is a runaway mode in diesels. If it burns enough oil or oil leaks into the intake you cannot shut it down. It will continue to run on the crankcase oil it burns just as if it were oil in the tank. Whether the oil is injected or leaks past the rings or into the intake manifold is no different. It will run on either source. If you do not believe this read:

http://mercedesshop.com/Wikka/RunAwayDiesel (http://mercedesshop.com/Wikka/RunAwayDiesel)


As I started out, having the oil light go on with 80% of the oil in the crankcase seems odd. Let’s hope for your sake and the sake of all those that have the same thing happen to them that Honda has a true warning system.

My wife keeps procrastinating to check our '08 petrol but today it will get checked! :) It has about 3K miles too. It has been checked at least a dozen times. Initially it used some oil but it has stabilized. This is normal break in behavior as the rings seat and wear in. I added 2/3 of a quart so far. Since the weather is so cold here it might be using more oil than it would at normal temperatures. So it will get checked today. My wife will be taking a trip next week. I will make sure it is all the way up to the dipstick max level before she goes. And I will add Mobil1 instead of Honda’s fossil oil this time!

-Rg

[Lucky Duck]

I don't know about US spec models, but the UK spec handbook details a dual-function warning light.
If the Oil-Can lights up RED, it relates to low oil pressure. Course of action - PANIC!
If it lights up AMBER, it indicates low oil level and "...reminds you to check the engine oil level" ie not so serious.

Another gem of info from the handbook:
"...The rate of oil consumption can be up to 1 litre per 1000km/625miles. Consumption is likely to be higher when the engine is new..." :eek:
You're not kidding! That works out to something in the region of 70:1 diesel to oil.

LD

[Radar24]

It looks like the US petrol only has the RED low oil pressure PANIC light.

Possibly since the diesel uses more oil they added the orange LOW OIL LEVEL Light.

I think they all should have it!

70:1 diesel to oil, no wonder they last 500k miles.
Diesel by itself is not a bad lubricant.

You practically do not even need oil splash on the cylinder walls for lubrication.
It's a diesel, no it's multi fuel, no it's a fuel mix 70:1 4 cycle... :eek:

-Rg

[Demonstarter]

The petrol has the same system in that amber low oli level ===Red --Panic

Obviously Honda are aware that their engines use oil as demonstrated by the blurb in the handbook, however you do not get sight of the handbook till after you have taken delivery of your expensive purchase, would it not be reasonable for the dealeship to make potential buyers aware of these facts before selling you the car/

Mazda MX5 uses oil and has poor petrol consumption and they are very upfront about it ,so what have Honda to hide??

I for one would have thought long and hard had I been made aware of the built in issues---just how many more are their to discover?

They are obviously happy to sell you a litre of oil at £10 a pop--nice little earner, however an expensive on cost if you do lots of miles==== £20 per 1000 miles x the life of the car--- say 100k miles=£2k or almost $3k

I will wait and see what they have to say about my car and maybe just start using our little Volvo C30 which has done the same amount of miles and the oil level has hardly moved on the dip stick

A POOR CRV owner

[Radar24]

Demonstarter,
I can sympathize will your surprise. I was likewise surprised with the rear diff issues on.

Interestingly enough I have not seen any complaints that I remember off on this forum for US and Japanese made CR-Vs on oil consumption below say 1k miles/qt. The problem might be more of a Honda UK petrol and diesel problem.

I recommend you wait and see what happens after you have 6k or maybe 10k milers. It might get better when fully broken in.

Do you do a lot of high speed driving or use the turbo boost a lot?
That would tend to increase oil consumption.

Did you read my 'An oil Story' post concerning the oil burning of the '74 Volvo? We had a theory that to prevent engines from self destructing on the autobahn, the engines are built in Belgium to burn a little more oil. I'm not sure where this originated but in might have actually come from a Volvo tech.

BTW burning too little oil is not good for cilynder wall wear and longevity. I'm not sure what is optimum.

-Rg

[WiltshireStuart]

My Diesel CR-V will be 1 year old on the 1st March 2009 and has done nearly 8,000 miles. During this time the oil level has barely moved, added about 100cc
(one tenth of a litre or 0.0264 US gallons) in December.

How the vehicle is driven makes a huge difference to both oil and fuel consumption. I do a mix of very short journeys (lots of 3 mile trips from cold) and a few motorway trips and still manage to average about 45mpg (UK gallons, which is 37.5 US mpg).

I suspect the main difference between UK cars and the US is not the cars themselves, but the type of roads and the way they are driven!
I have noticed that fuel consumption is particularly poor on hills compared to my previous cars.

Tip - Never ever attempt to accelerate up a hill in a CR-V!

[Radar24]

WiltshireStuart,
I take it that is 8000 miles and not kilometers.

If so then it looks like you are following the MMI. Waithing for it to indicate when to change the oil. Is that correct? Are you certain that the dealer is not topping it off during service or other type of work? I am asking because I believe diesel normally use somewhat more oil due to the design and high compression/vacuum. It might be the short trips that are diluting the oil with the diesel getting past the rings when cold. Diesels do better running constantly rather than being shut off and started cold. You never see truckers here do that, they just let them run instead of shutting them down for short periods of time.

The same can happen too with petrol getting into the crankcase. It then seems to be burning less oil than it actually is. Might be a good idea to sniff the oil on the dipstick to make sure it does not smell like diesel . If it does then you want to drain it ASAP and put in fresh oil. Diesel is a good lubricant but it does not have the high pressure or thin film lubricating properties that oil does.

Just a brain fart! :D It is probably OK. Just the same it is an easy check.

Finally, what is the deal why the US gallon is about 3/4 that of the UK gallon? I take it that the Yanks screwed it up somewhere along the line. :D Or was there a change related to the metric system?

Just curious.

-Rg

[Demonstarter]

Update

Dealer has just called to say that one of the plugs was dis coloured and they have discovered that oil has been leaking into the cylinder and the car will nedd a new head---so much for all the rubbish on what is normal oil consumption

The brake squeel and grinding is a known fault and they will be doing the repair to rectify this

The wind noise they cannot check as yet due to engine being in bits.

Honda reliability I dont think so---quality dealership appears not to be the case as I was made to believe that everything was as it should be!!

I think I will be looking to get a new car and not one with a new head or may just ask for my money back and go elsewhere

CRV owners watch your oil consumption especially on the petrol models.

Demonstarter

[twinspark]

Mine used a total of 1 litre in its first year (serviced at about 11K miles). Most of that 1 litre was used between 1,500 and 6,000 miles. Thereafter usage was minimal till the service was done.

Between the first and second services, very little was used (I'd guess 200 ml maximum) and I didn't need to top it up.

This is the first car I have owned that has required me to add oil - I've had a succession of Fiats, a Lancia and Alfa~Romeos - none of which required a drop between services (with the level on the dipstick never changing).

One thing I have noticed with all the cars I have owned from new; At the first service, the oil was obviously cleaner than before the service but not as golden coloured as you would imagine, however from the second service onwards, the new oil was indeed golden syrup coloured. This was always checked the day after the car was serviced (so I knew the proper oil level in the sump, the oil having fully drained down overnight).

Drifting off topic slightly - You should all try running a Smart car and checking the oil in it. The process is not straightforward. Some Porsches and other exotica require you to check the oil with the engine at temperature and running, normal cars, with the engine cold and the oil settled back down. Smart was different. Engine had to be up to temperature and oil checked several minutes after turning engine off. If you sampled the oil level every 30 seconds from switch off it went something like this Overfull, Overfull, Overfull, Overfull, OK, OK, OK, OK, OK, OK, OK, OK OK, OK, No Oil!, No Oil! (Of course there was the time it came back from the dealer's service and after half an hour was still overfull - yup they had to pump some of the stuff out!).

Back on Topic - Will see what the CR-V does during the 3rd year of ownership. Hopefully the consumption is indeed tailing off.

Gordon.

[ndj]

I have an 04 petrol with the K20A engine. It needed around 0.25L of oil in its first year but non since. Currently at 42000 miles.

However, an Accord Type-R I owned many moons ago was an oil drinker!

[Demonstarter]

etter arrived today from Dealer saying they have fixed all the faults and stating "they were not allowing me to reject the car"

Over to the lawyer now to issue court proceedings

--they have replaced the head, removed the shims from the front brakes, replaced the discs and pads at the rear and can find no fault with the wind noise " over and above what is normal for any CRV???"

All this on what is supposed to be a new quality car !!!!!!!!!!

Would anybody accept this from a main marque and supposed quality dealership???

[Jimbo_EX]

Nope. Your 100% correct

[Flinty]

Hi Guys, Talking oil ! what oil do you all use to top up ? I just went to Hallfords to buy a Lt Of Mobile 1 and toke out a morgage with them only need it to have just in case in the boot,come on you boffins talke to me about oil.?

Flinty

2007 CR-V 2.2 i-CTDi EX Gold

[Radar24]

That bad? I hope you will not default as the foreclosure vultures will be flying overhead:).

The USA is not going to bail you out or have we already? :rolleyes:

-Rg

[ndj]

The USA is not going to bail you out or have we already? :rolleyes:

-Rg

Errr, no, we all had to bail ourselves out after the US financial system imploded due to sub-prime greed :eek:

[AoS]

My i-CTDI CR-V has 114.000km (~70K miles) now and have added 1 litre between each oil change (every 20.000km/12.500 miles).

[Radar24]

Errr, no, we all had to bail ourselves out after the US financial system imploded due to sub-prime greed :eek:
I agree. But to be technically correct you have equally greedy types too. It is not a US exclusive illness. Just about every country has their greedy vultures and thieves counterpart. If a money making scam will fly man will try.

-Rg

[Serj22]

CTDI OIL USAGE!!!

Careful, or you're all going to the naughty spot.

[Radar24]

CTDI OIL USAGE!!! Careful, or you're all going to the naughty spot.
... the naughty spot? That would be???

-Rg

[Serj22]

... the naughty spot? That would be???

-Rg

On the chair in the corner looking at the wall. No dinner either.

Not "A" naughty spot or "someone's" naughty spot:rolleyes: Radar...

[ndj]

I agree. But to be technically correct you have equally greedy types too. It is not a US exclusive illness. Just about every country has their greedy vultures and thieves counterpart. If a money making scam will fly man will try.

-Rg

Agreed.

Now I'm 100% back on topic to avoid staring at the wall all day ;)

Apologies for the earlier thread hijack Serj!

[thodoriscrv]

i got my '09 i-ctdi on june.After 13000km,i have only added only 500 ml.I use 10w40 honda genuine motor oil.As you can imagine,the oil consumption is zero taking under consideration the high temperatures here in greece and my typical way of driving is 'pedal to the metal".Be aware of warming up the engine especially during the cold morning hours,change the oil and the filter at the corect service times and your engine will be "singing' like new for ages.