Diff oil change

[fyr]

I dont have a owners manual handy, but I am interested in finding out when I should change my differential oil, 1999 Crv,
Thanks

[jpkearney]

I've read on some other sites that there is a technical service bullletin out for the 05 CR-V about the rear diff. not getting enough lubrication and there is some "fix" for that, other than just continuing to incur the expense of changing the dual pump fluid every 10-15K miles. Does anyone know what this bulletin is or where I can view this? I feel like the dealer here in Kansas City is just giving me the run around on this. Any help would be appreciated!

[Carbuff2]

:confused: I've been following the CRV Forums for almost a year and don't know of a TSB regarding insufficient differential lubrication.



But to get to the OP's question, you should change your rear differential fluid (using Honda Dual Pump fluid only!) when you hear the "rubbing" or "moaning" noise on sharp turns. If you go by mileage, every 30,000 miles should be OK. (05 and 06s might need more frequent changes due to the cam-lock engagement action). Also damp weather is supposed to make the fluid wear out sooner, so YMMV.

There are videos posted on YouTube of many CR-V maintenance procedures. Look for videos posted by FishyComics.

Have fun... with routine maintenance the V will last hundreds of thousands of miles...

And, on your '99, it is suggested to adjust valve clearances every 30K miles, as well.

[bls]

I found this Service bulletin 07-024 while searching about this problem. It is dated Apr 20, 2007. It applies to 2002-06 Honda CR-V 4WD. See text at
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF. It says it will be covered during the warranty period and possibly out of it if you negotiate right.

The service bulletin for the 1997-2001 CR-V was 01-079 and can be found
at http://www.crvownersclub.com/TSBs/2001/01-079.pdf

The 2007 CR-V has a much worse problem - search this forum for the recall info.

I'm taking my 2005 in this week for servicing. I hope this info I found while researching will be helpful for others.

[2RedV's]

Basically, many people buy CR-V's and try to treat them like cars - nothing but oil changes. You HAVE TO keep the various fluids changed if you want true, trouble-free performance for hundreds of thousands of miles. The rear differential needs to be serviced either every 30k miles or so OR more often if you drive through deep water. It has a breather element built-in to the top of the unit and hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs water - which contaminates the fluid.

30k miles is quite reasonable for the fluid changes. Many full-size SUV's and trucks require much more frequent (15-20k miles) changes and require synthetic gear lube and they also have a transfer case to change fluid in. Try pricing synthetic gear lube and limited slip additive remembering that most of those other SUV's and trucks have TWO differentials to service.

Driving style will also play into your fluid change interval. Aggressive starts and tight turns will engage the rear wheels much more often than you think. This causes fluid wear (and clutch pack wear).

[rb516]

Great post, very helpful (YouTube video was great)

Has anyone had a differential clutch pack go bad?

If so how difficult are they to replace?

[2RedV's]

Great post, very helpful (YouTube video was great)

Has anyone had a differential clutch pack go bad?

If so how difficult are they to replace?Dealers charge about $1200 for the replacement clutch pack. However, changing the fluid every 30k miles (or more often if you drive thru deep water) will save the unit. The clutch pack is surprisingly resilient to neglect and will probably be fine with a fluid change (or double change, per the TSB).

[AWDnoise]

Don't do the maintenance yourself! It's covered under warranty, see:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF
If your warranty is expired, it can be pre-approved for goodwill consideration. This is a known huge problem by Honda. The service advisor at Scott Robinson Honda (Torrance, CA) charged my fiancee for the fluid change for our '05 CRV still under warranty. Before knowing of TSB 07-024, I went to the dealer the next day suspecting somethying fishy. The same person stated the fluid should be changed every 15k miles and that it's in the owners manual and not covered by warranty. After leaving the dealer, I read the owners manual and it states 60k miles for fluid change. He lied right to my face. That got me hunting on the web and there are numerous owner complaints. Finally, I found the TSB. The service advisor also lied that only the fluid needs to be changed. The clutches must be burnished first and it must be followed up w/ a test drive. Now I have to go back to the dealer to have the charges reversed. Grrrrrrrrr

[Black Pearl]

This has been a very hot topic lately. Thanks for the info regarding the service bulletin.

[2RedV's]

Don't do the maintenance yourself! It's covered under warranty, see:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF
If your warranty is expired, it can be pre-approved for goodwill consideration. This is a known huge problem by Honda. The service advisor at Scott Robinson Honda (Torrance, CA) charged my fiancee for the fluid change for our '05 CRV still under warranty. Before knowing of TSB 07-024, I went to the dealer the next day suspecting somethying fishy. The same person stated the fluid should be changed every 15k miles and that it's in the owners manual and not covered by warranty. After leaving the dealer, I read the owners manual and it states 60k miles for fluid change. He lied right to my face. That got me hunting on the web and there are numerous owner complaints. Finally, I found the TSB. The service advisor also lied that only the fluid needs to be changed. The clutches must be burnished first and it must be followed up w/ a test drive. Now I have to go back to the dealer to have the charges reversed. GrrrrrrrrrIt "may" be covered under warranty. Each claim is taken on a one-on-one basis. Although not all vehicles will need this done, YOU can "burnish" the clutch pack yourself. All the burnishing process does is to ensure that the clutch pack gets engaged which causes the new fluid to work thru the clutch pack. Get on snow, ice, dirt and floor it. The rear will receive torque and you will burnish the clutch pack just as effectively, but with much more fun than doing it on a lift.

Please refrain from making duplicate posts on different forums/threads. It doesn't help to get you an answer any quicker and it tends to confuse people as they may have already replied to your other duplicate posts. You posted this identical info in 5 separate threads! I have deleted 3 of them, leaving the other 2 due to comments that have been made about your posts.

[Black Pearl]

Please refrain from making duplicate posts on different forums/threads. It doesn't help to get you an answer any quicker and it tends to confuse people as they may have already replied to your other duplicate posts. You posted this identical info in 5 separate threads! I have deleted 3 of them, leaving the other 2 due to comments that have been made about your posts.

Undelete them Red. AWDnoise has critical information. It is not his fault that there was numerous threads on the same problem and he should be commended for taking the time to reply to all the open threads.

[Black Pearl]

By the way the service bulletin that AWDnoise mentioned is applicable to model year 2002 to 2007.

[2RedV's]

By the way the service bulletin that AWDnoise mentioned is applicable to model year 2002 to 2007.Yes it does. He also was repeating the link from post number 4 of this thread which also listed the same link, which is also posted in the Recalls, TSB's and Notices forums. It wasn't new info by any means.

[Black Pearl]

Yes it does. He also was repeating the link from post number 4 of this thread which also listed the same link, which is also posted in the Recalls, TSB's and Notices forums. It wasn't new info by any means.

I have to admit I never seen this thread before I posted and by God there it is in post #4 just like you said dated clear back in August.

But If this Service Bulletin is so well known why wasn't it brought up in this thread:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1852


or this particularly rancorous thread:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511

You replied to both threads and never mentioned this service bulletin.

Red you do a wonderful job on this forum. I admire how much you know about the V and cars in general. I also give you a lot of credit for wading in and expressing opinions that may be unpopular and breaking up fights. But this is one case where I disagree with you, the TSB is not that well known or it would have been mentioned in the other threads. I still say AWDnoise did the right thing by posting on the numerous related threads.

[2RedV's]

I will bet that AWDnoise won't ever post again. Based upon the registration name, the only posts he/she made were identical and complaints related to the registration name and still has not yet posted back....

[shandy]

If you put ur crv into full lock and can hear a groaning coming from the rear of the vehicle whilst moving at slow speed then the dif oil needs changing.

Mileage does't come into it.

About £100 at a Honda dealer.

Shandy.

[Mikeybc]

Just had my 06 rear diff fluid changed under warranty at 38,000 km's. The dealer said theres a procedure to flush out all the old fluid then they refill with the new dual pump II fluid. On the invoice the labor time is listed at 1.5 hrs, so it must be more than a simple drain/fill.

I didn't even have to ask to have it covered under warranty...they did it no questions asked,

[2RedV's]

Just had my 06 rear diff fluid changed under warranty at 38,000 km's. The dealer said theres a procedure to flush out all the old fluid then they refill with the new dual pump II fluid. On the invoice the labor time is listed at 1.5 hrs, so it must be more than a simple drain/fill.

I didn't even have to ask to have it covered under warranty...they did it no questions asked,There is no "flush" to it. It is a double drain and fill along with the procedure mentioned dozens of times, called "burnishing the clutch pack". All it really does is ensure that new fluid gets moved into the clutch pack right away.