Photo Essay Diff Fluid 07CRV Discussion

[Black Pearl]

. Discussion .

[Carbuff2]

My biggest problem with the fill-with-a-tube procedure is,

there is always some fluid in the tube because it stays in the low areas....then when the tube is withdrawn it spills out (can't hold it in as I pull the tube past the wheel)

On one DPF change I tried a cheap pump...too cheap I guess because the tubes fell out of THAT and made a mess too!

Atwell "Pig-Pen" Haines ;)
'06V
NJ

[Black Pearl]

Like changing oil, messes (and bloody knuckles) are part of the bonding process. When I filled mine, I wisely removed the full drain pan to avoid knocking it over. Dame Black Pearl was doing the pouring, but alas she was shooting for the mystical 1/3 quart. Somewhere before 10 oz it started running out. Its amazing how big of a splotch an ounce of oil makes.

[Carvingbarn]

Thanks for the time and effort you put in your post Black Pearl. It is well done .

[GoGreen]

Fantastic Information Black Pearl.

Your Step-by-Step Photo Essays are the best on the web! :cool:

[sdaniel105]

Do the maintenance minders reset themselves? I have to reset my 04 Odyssey and wonder what I have to do when it comes time to do my oil in my 08.

Sean

[SunnyB]

Last night I changed the dual pump fluid on our '07 V and found it to be pretty straight forward thanks to the posts in here. I never had a noise from the rear diff, but an older, wiser person once told me that "oil is cheap". So at 28,982, out with the old and in with the new. One thing I tried that seemed to work well is the fill device I had laying around for whatever reason. I think it was purchased at autozone for a couple of bucks like 3 years ago, but it worked well. You can screw it onto the plastic container of fluid and have it turned off so no fluid will come out until the yellow end is turned 1/4 turn. There is enough room to have the plastic container lay fairly flat, but still being above the level of the fill hole. Once set, a 1/4 turn and let it flow. One other thing I did was pour the .3 quart in the empty container from the full one and it just barely started to run out the fill hole when done. Keep the drain pan under your work area and not a drop spilled.

[tcturner]

Black Pearl you do a great video like this and you still say you are not one of the more knowledgeable members and you wonder why I disagree.
Fantastic job.
Jim in To

[Black Pearl]

Last night I changed the dual pump fluid on our '07 V and found it to be pretty straight forward thanks to the posts in here. I never had a noise from the rear diff, but an older, wiser person once told me that "oil is cheap". So at 28,982, out with the old and in with the new. One thing I tried that seemed to work well is the fill device I had laying around for whatever reason. I think it was purchased at autozone for a couple of bucks like 3 years ago, but it worked well. You can screw it onto the plastic container of fluid and have it turned off so no fluid will come out until the yellow end is turned 1/4 turn. There is enough room to have the plastic container lay fairly flat, but still being above the level of the fill hole. Once set, a 1/4 turn and let it flow. One other thing I did was pour the .3 quart in the empty container from the full one and it just barely started to run out the fill hole when done. Keep the drain pan under your work area and not a drop spilled.

Welcome to the club, and clever filling device. I bought something that somewhat resembled the yellow part of your contraption (without the hose) but using an empty oil container I was afraid it wouldn't work. I am going to keep an eye out for your contraption. Any idea where you bought it?

I am a little concerned with your mileage at your change. With an 07 your MMI should have given you a 6 subcode (for changing the rear differential fluid) somewhere between 13,000 miles and 20,000 miles. If you are not using the MMI, you should try to change the fluid every 15 to 20 K. You are exactly correct, fluid is cheap. Honda has had a good bit of trouble with the rear differentials and fluid changes are important. So keep after that rear differential fluid a little more often than 28K.

Welcome to the club and again neat oil snout!


tcturner, thanks for the kind comments, but writing a procedure for changing rear diff fluid doesn't take a whole lot of knowledge. A good camera is helpful. When you see me writing a procedure for rebuilding a transmission, then I'll agree with you. But thanks for the compliment.

[SunnyB]

BP,
Thanks for the welcome.... I've been reading these posts for some time now and just chimed in when I thought I had some constructive input. As far as the fill device, I'm sure it was autozone or advance where I got it. I seem to remember doing a diff oil change on my old chevy pick-up awhile ago and needing it for the 90 wt oil. As far as the MMI, I'm a 7,500 mile change guy. I've had percentages ranging from 50% to 60% at 7,500 intervals. I reset the MMI at each oil change and try and keep an eye and ear on everything else. We have had our 07 for 15 months now and so with our VIN being out of the "suspect" range for the Honda TSB I figured 30k was a good start. Besides breaking off the damn rear window squirter when it was snowing out and the somewhat less than average factory tires, we are pleased with the V. Plus it's fun to drive in the snow before the plows get out....(don't tell the wife).

[Black Pearl]

One problem with changing oil earlier than the MMI calls for is missing the subcodes being called up. If the oil life never gets down to 15%, the subcodes will not be displayed. As I mentioned above, I think most members are getting the 6 subcode for changing the rear differential fluid between 13000 and 20000 on the second oil change. With the difficulties that Honda has experienced with the rear differentials, you want to keep a good record that you have changed the fluid in the recommended intervals. Even if you have trouble after your warranty expires, you may be eligible for good will consideration if you have changed the rear differential fluid by the MMI's recommendations.

To advoid missing the codes, you can check the codes that are coming up on the next cycle. Check out post #2 on this thread:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1886

[Bill R]

I did my 2005 CRV and the rear diff is different with the fill above the drain plug. I had to remove a protection shield from the fuel evap cannister to get better access to the plugs - after that it was simple. I used a sqeegee bottle with a 8" long 1/4" Id hose shoved onto the pointed tip and put it in this way - had to fill the bottle about 4 or 5 times to get all the oil in. I had enough hose so I could tip the bottom of the bottle up get almost all the oil out each filling. Just fill until the oil starts to run out fill hole. The factory manual says, for mine, the oil level should be up to the bottom of the fill hole with the vehicle level.

[ZenLunatic]

Ok, so I am 16K on my 07 CR-V. I took it in to get an oil change and they tell me I need a rear differential change. They charge like $100 and like $25 for tire rotation. I am in no way handy enough to do the differential change or want to do the tire rotation. Is it worth paying the dealer? Can I find cheaper elsewhere?

[Black Pearl]

If you do have a third party change your rear differential fluid be absolutely sure that they will use only Honda Brand Dual Pump Fluid II. If they use some other fluid it will damage your rear differential and Honda will not honor a warranty repair. Extreme caution is called for. This situation occured to another member.

Read the instructions at the beginning of this thread, changing the rear differential fluid is not difficult, and the instructions are very detailed with photos. Good luck.

[SniperD]

Is that 5/8 OD (outer diameter) on the hose or ID (inner diameter). I'm a big fan of just buying exactly what somebody who knows what they are doing tells me to buy! :)

--edit
Clearly stated in step 11 it's the OD.

[Black Pearl]

Is that 5/8 OD (outer diameter) on the hose or ID (inner diameter). I'm a big fan of just buying exactly what somebody who knows what they are doing tells me to buy! :)

--edit
Clearly stated in step 11 it's the OD.

I corrected step E under Required Tools. Thanks for pointing out my omission. One shouldn't wait till step 11 to find out the size hose. I appreciate you helping to make the instructions better!

Thanks again!

[roabf]

Thanks Black Pearl and Sunny B!!! I changed my oil and rear differential fluid this afternoon. It was a breeze with the fluid container spout tube thingy that Sunny B mentioned. I didn't drop or spill any of the fluid. I purchased it at Auto-Zone. Again, thanks guys.

[Energy One]

I was in Harbor Freight a few days ago and they had a fluid pump and hoses for 5 bucks so I bought one. I thought this would be an easy and clean solution for getting the fluid in the rear differential. It is a manual pump but it has a good size dimension to it so it would not take long to pump a quart in no time at all. I am still a long way off from changing the fluid but when I do I will report how it works.

[Black Pearl]

Mentioning Harbor Freight* fired some rarely used neurons in my head. I bought a cheap plastic pump for something or other at work and we found it to be loaded with plastic chips and shavings. Actually I bought the pump at Grainger or McMaster Carr but some of my dealings at Harbor Freight have not inspired a great confidence in quality. If you can dismantle the pump, thoroughly check it out for assembly debris. If the pump can't be dismantled, I would recommend thoroughly flushing it prior to use.

Ha! But flushing it with what? NOT WATER! If you use anything other than Dual Pump fluid, you risk contaminating your rear differential with the remanent flushing oil. Perhaps we have just found a use for that remaining .7 quart left over from the last change!

That applies to hose and plastic snouty things as well.

*EDIT: The home of Pittsburgh Professional Tools which are made in China. I looked at a map of China and did not see a Pittsburgh anywhere. One thing that really POs xenophobes (such as myself) from Pittsburgh is the use of our fair city's (ha!) name on foreign made tools. If they must sully The Steel City name, could they at least leave the H of the end? (Black Pearl's fingers quiver over the keyboard in an xenophobic rage of the hijacking of his city's name by Communist Capitalist Industrialists half way around the world on a forum devoted to a Japanese car. Ah yes Black Pearl, you are a man of principle!) Alas a bit of thread drift!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Name_of_Pittsburgh

The original Black & Gold (Image credit Wikipedia)

[harold]

Changed fluid in my new used 2006 V today. 59000 Kilo. on the meter. It was never changed since new! I still could not make it moan, but I just had to change before it moaned! The filler and drain plugs are both on the drivers side on the 2006 model. You also have to remove a skid plate from I think, a fuel pump? , in order to get the 3/8's drive onto the plugs for removal. The oil was a darker red than the new pump 11 oil. Thanks to this site it made my work much less of a job.:D Hal

[Carbuff2]

You also have to remove a skid plate from I think, a fuel pump? , in order to get the 3/8's drive onto the plugs for removal.

Hi Hal,

The cover is for the evaporative emissions "box" (charcoal canister and associated plumbing)

Not too hard...it is held on with three bolts with 10mm heads...make sure you apply some anti-seize if you live in areas where road salt is applied to the roads.

[harold]

Thanks Carbuff for the explaination of what that was. That was the first thing that crossed my mind , these are usually found in the engine compartment. Got to find a manual. Hal:D

[06CivicCoupeEX]

I apologize for sounding like a noob, but has anyone used this DIY on a 2nd generation (more specifically, a 2003) CR-V? If so, is it pretty much the same procedure? I looke don the link to the Element website, and it depicted that the drain/fill plugs were slightly different (with the filler being locate don top of the drain). Is this the case with a second generation CR-V? Thanks for the help.

[Black Pearl]

The second generation has the plugs in a different location, and there is something blocking one of the plugs. Read posts 23 and 24 above.

I believe that someone did a gen 2 rear differential video on YOU TUBE.

Although it is different, I don't believe that it is very difficult, you just have to remove reinstall the device referred to above.

[Febrile Mech]

06 Civiccoupe ex I just did this today. I changed it in my 2004 CRV EXL. I used the funnel method and thought it to work out pretty good. Changes in equipment made due to what I had on hand were I used wine siphoning hose. This I fed through the left rear wheel to the top fill hole. I then positioned my funnel at the open fuel door. With the distance established I cut the hose so my funnel could be wired to the fuel door. I Used piece of hose to fit the smaller hose to the funnel. I also used compressed air to blow out the hose and cleaned the area around the fill plugs. I used Pearls tip and cleaned the area with a brush and pad. I further blew compressed air at the plugs when I first cracked them free. I drained the oil into an old square Tupperware container. After it stopped dripping I removed and placed it on a level surface and marked a line at the level of oil that came out. I dumped my reddish looking oil and filled the Tupperware container to that line with the new oil. It was less the US quart by about two tablespoons. I have had no problems or noises with my diff so I left it at that. It wasn't coming out of the top hole when I finished. It, IMO, with a smaller hose it siphon a bit better from a the low spot. I decided also to put what was left from the quart in to account for the bit left in the hose. I did the oil change without putting it on a jack. I had the reposition myself to tap my ratchet with a mallet to loosen the plugs.

This CRV was last serviced from a Honda dealer and Ive had it for 1 year this month. The only thing has happened is the light for the drivers seat heater does not come on. The seat heater works.

Thank you Black Pearl for the walk through. I would have likely used a thumb pump available at most marine supply stores for gear case filling.

[bespringer07]

I am new to the forum and my questions might already be addressed somewhere but haven't exactly found them so hope you are patient.

I need to change tranny fluid in my 07, it has 20K on it but is 2 years old and I often tow it behind a motor home. How do I reset the maintenance minder for this?

Also, haven't got an indication on changing rear diff fluid but need to do that also. How do I reset it's MM?

Thanks for your help.

[Badgerland]

I am new to the forum and my questions might already be addressed somewhere but haven't exactly found them so hope you are patient.

I need to change tranny fluid in my 07, it has 20K on it but is 2 years old and I often tow it behind a motor home. How do I reset the maintenance minder for this?

Also, haven't got an indication on changing rear diff fluid but need to do that also. How do I reset it's MM?

Thanks for your help.

Here is a quick link for you to look at regarding resetting the Maintenance Minder system. Although it will give you good info, reading through you owners manual will give a better explanation of how and what codes you receive each time you get the "wrench". You haven't told us what codes you have gotten in the past so I will let you read about them before explaining for you.

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5705&highlight=resetting&page=2

[kbz1960]

You can also see the upcoming items without resetting.

You can see what codes are coming up. Select the oil life display, hold the button until it shows OIL LIFE CANCEL, turn the button until OIL LIFE is flashing, press the button once, and it shows what codes are coming up. Press the button momentarily and release to return to the normal display, and it won't reset.

[Black Pearl]

I am new to the forum and my questions might already be addressed somewhere but haven't exactly found them so hope you are patient.

I need to change tranny fluid in my 07, it has 20K on it but is 2 years old and I often tow it behind a motor home. How do I reset the maintenance minder for this?

Also, haven't got an indication on changing rear diff fluid but need to do that also. How do I reset it's MM?

Thanks for your help.

Unfortunately there is no way to set individual services. That is, there is no way to reset the MM for the ATF or the rear differential fluid, unless those sub-codes are displayed when the wrench icon appears. When you reset the MM, it is assumed that you are doing only the maintenance required by the displayed codes. Keeping a written record is the only way to record maintenance performed that is not called out by a specific code.

For instance, I change my engine air filter annually, and the first time, I had 16,000 miles on the car. I reset the MM at that time for the other services that I performed. At the next oil change, at 24,000 miles, the 2 subcode was displayed. I had already changed the air filter 6 months and 8,000 miles ago so I simply reset the MM when I performed the other required services. So I have to keep a written record. The MM is OK if you are performing the minimal required maintenance, however, for those who choose more frequent intervals for certain select services or all services, the MM leaves a lot to be desired.

[fonzy_cat]

I just changed the rear diff oil in my 1999 CR-V that I bought a couple of weeks ago. I changed it because there was a high pitched whine coming from the back of the vehicle(some where toward the rear). After reading some of the posts on this forum I figured that was my best bet. The whine changed pitch with the speed of the vehicle and it was not terribly loud - but noticeable at speeds above 25mph.

The fluid that I drained out looked very clean and still had a pinkish hugh. I guess that is not necessarily a good indication of the condition of the fluid however? It took just over one quart of Honda Dual Pump fluid to refill. I have yet to drive it to see if that fixed the high pitched whine - I will let you know.

[greenteacrv]

I just changed the rear differential in my '07 CRV at 31,800 miles. My original differential clutch pack was replaced under warranty at 1300 miles due to failure. I did a change at 16,000 miles and both times I used an 8 ounce bottle with a pump (actually an empty clean Germ X bottle) and pumped 1.2 liters of Dual Pump II fluid in the final drive. It takes a while, but is rather easy with no unusual contortions on my part. One thing that I found by reading the manual tonight......RTFM.....the total replacement quantity for the 4wd CRV is 7.6 quarts.....thus by replacing 3 3/4 quarts today = half of the total ATF in the transmission.

Just FYI