Brake Rotors?

[Rotarctica]

I've got to do the front brakes on my mom's 2005 CR-V LX 2WD...the pads are available at Autozone...but not the rotors? Please don't tell me I've gotta get them from Honda....how much?

[2RedV's]

I've got to do the front brakes on my mom's 2005 CR-V LX 2WD...the pads are available at Autozone...but not the rotors? Please don't tell me I've gotta get them from Honda....how much?

Are the rotors too far gone to turn? Hard to believe you need rotors already though? If you (her) are hard on brakes, you may want to consider upgrading to something like the Brembo rotors - go with the standard blanks, not the slotted and drilled over-priced ones. Check places like tirerack.com for them. Then, get better pads for it too.

[Rotarctica]

Are the rotors too far gone to turn? Hard to believe you need rotors already though? If you (her) are hard on brakes, you may want to consider upgrading to something like the Brembo rotors - go with the standard blanks, not the slotted and drilled over-priced ones. Check places like tirerack.com for them. Then, get better pads for it too.

They've been turned once, and I'm not about to turn them again. I know that seems extreme, but I personally think it's a waste of money when you can just replace the rotors with new ones for the same if not lower price than getting them turned.

She's not hard on the brakes, she also does not ride them. I'm a bit more firm with brakes. Neither of us have ever warped rotors before. So either Honda chose crappy rotors that heat-soak easily (We've been over this in another thread about rotor warping, I believe), or it's my older brother's fault. I know he has a habit of riding brakes, but he's never actually warped a pair before..

Brembo...hm...it's hard enough trying to convince my mum that she needs to get some coil-overs and a Mugen exhaust for the V. :D

Price is of some concern, here. My grandmother died three weeks ago, and, well...you can imagine... Any other options other than Tirerack? Cheaper maybe? Nothing too too cheap....though my Duralast rotors on the Jetta that I give hell haven't complained. :cool:

[2RedV's]

I mentioned tirerack because they feature good products. You could probably find the Brembo rotors for less elsewhere though. Turning costs $10-$15 each, here, way less than new ones.

Still, warped rotors, twice already on an 05? Our 04 now has about 50k miles and the front pads are nearing 1/3 left with no rotor issues. My 99 had front pads only put on around 70k and now has 135k miles with lots of pad left and no rotor issues. The 99 still has the original rear shoes! I have owned over 60 vehicles since about 1980 and these 2 Hondas amaze me all the time.

[Rotarctica]

I mentioned tirerack because they feature good products. You could probably find the Brembo rotors for less elsewhere though. Turning costs $10-$15 each, here, way less than new ones.

Still, warped rotors, twice already on an 05? Our 04 now has about 50k miles and the front pads are nearing 1/3 left with no rotor issues. My 99 had front pads only put on around 70k and now has 135k miles with lots of pad left and no rotor issues. The 99 still has the original rear shoes! I have owned over 60 vehicles since about 1980 and these 2 Hondas amaze me all the time.

Yeah, this whole rotor thing shocks me too...I find it unacceptable. Never has my mom warped rotors. Never have I warped rotors, and we're the two primary drivers! My dad hates the thing (He drives a Chevy and swears by it...), my sister won't touch it, my little brother is 12 and my older brother isn't allowed to drive it much anymore.

$10-$15 each?! It's $90 per rotor here!!!!

[2RedV's]

$90 to turn a rotor? New ones are cheaper! OMG! As easy as it is to pull the pads and rotor off... Hold on. I think am going to have a heart attack. I would MOVE.

[Rotarctica]

$90 to turn a rotor? New ones are cheaper! OMG! As easy as it is to pull the pads and rotor off... Hold on. I think am going to have a heart attack. I would MOVE.

Hence why I just replace the front pads and rotors to save money over having each rotor turned. :cool:

Trust me, if it weren't for my boyfriend (Shhhhhhh.....) I'd move!

Regardless...Tire Rack, according to the make/model search...has brake pads. No rotors. For my mom's car.

Where else?

[HandA]

We've just added the Honda ones at:
http://www.HandA-Accessories.com/crvmaint05.html

$41.83 for the pads and $68.50 each for the rotors.

-Trevor

[Carbuff2]

Rotarctica,

If your Mom has never had the REAR pads checked, do it now. If there still is sufficient "meat" on the rears, then the edges of the pad backing plates need to be lubricated. They can corrode and stick (resulting in all the brake action being accomplished by the front pads). There is a TSB about that I believe. (Perhaps that is why she has warpage problems?)

With properly operating brakes, the rears should last about the same as the fronts so they should be checked now, anyway.

Trevor's price on the pads are excellent. The '05/06 V has OE ceramic pads that don't dust nearly as much as aftermarket. As long as fading is not an issue, I like the stock Honda pads because they come with the anti squeal shims and hardware.

[Rotarctica]

Rotarctica,

If your Mom has never had the REAR pads checked, do it now. If there still is sufficient "meat" on the rears, then the edges of the pad backing plates need to be lubricated. They can corrode and stick (resulting in all the brake action being accomplished by the front pads). There is a TSB about that I believe. (Perhaps that is why she has warpage problems?)

With properly operating brakes, the rears should last about the same as the fronts so they should be checked now, anyway.

Trevor's price on the pads are excellent. The '05/06 V has OE ceramic pads that don't dust nearly as much as aftermarket. As long as fading is not an issue, I like the stock Honda pads because they come with the anti squeal shims and hardware.

While that's a great possibility (And something new I just learned!), I doubt that's the problem. If the fronts were doing all the braking, I'd have long noticed it by now. And I did check the rear pads about two months ago, and they've got meat on 'em...not like-new, but they're maybe 50%-60% worn.

The rotors first warped when my brother had no car and he was driving it a lot. So I'm pretty sure now that he's the original cause. We're not talking a light pulse in the pedal...the rotors were so bad that the steering wheel would shake with FORCE upon braking...and shake violently at 70mph. The pads were so unevenly worn that they've screwed the resurfaced..er...surface...

Anyways, the bottom line is, I just need inexpensive rotors. I'm having zero luck, so, if someone knows of cheap rotors.. speak up. :cool:

[STOWC]

Rotarctica,

Do you have the torque settings for the caliper bolts.

I've got to do the same job on my wifes CRV which has warped the discs at 20,000 miles. The previous owner must have been a lead foot.

Probably not much use to you but we can get rotors for £23 + tax from www.brakeparts.co.uk.

Regards
Craig.

[Rotarctica]

Rotarctica,

Do you have the torque settings for the caliper bolts.

I've got to do the same job on my wifes CRV which has warped the discs at 20,000 miles. The previous owner must have been a lead foot.

Probably not much use to you but we can get rotors for £23 + tax from www.brakeparts.co.uk.

Regards
Craig.

You can call me stupid, but I don't use the torque settings for brakes... Technically, most every nut and bolt on a car has a torque setting. It doesn't mean you must use it...

[STOWC]

OK thanks.

[Carbuff2]

Uneven torque of wheel lug nuts can lead to rotor warpage, you know. With an alloy wheel the spec is 80 ft-lbs. Torquing them evenly is your main concern.

Beware the tire shops and their impact guns! :eek:



The calipers are not independently bolted-on in a Generation 2 CR-V. There are two little Phillips screws on each that holds the rotors in place on the hub. These screws are often corroded in place, so an impact driver is a useful tool to have when removing rotors that have been in place for a few years.

[watkinra]

I also have an 05 CR-V and have just turned my fronts after only 31,000 miles. My wife and I have had a few different Honda products and the only weak link that they all shared is the front brakes. The engineers are very supportive of Honda's parts department. POOR DESIGN!!!
The good part is that they easy to work on. I replaced the pads and rotors in about an hour. I had the rotors turned so didn't count that time.
I got my pads from AutoZone...Duralast ceramics for $39.00. So far, the residue is not apparent, compared to OEM, and they really do a good job of stopping even when cold.

[2RedV's]

I also have an 05 CR-V and have just turned my fronts after only 31,000 miles. My wife and I have had a few different Honda products and the only weak link that they all shared is the front brakes. The engineers are very supportive of Honda's parts department. POOR DESIGN!!!
The good part is that they easy to work on. I replaced the pads and rotors in about an hour. I had the rotors turned so didn't count that time.
I got my pads from AutoZone...Duralast ceramics for $39.00. So far, the residue is not apparent, compared to OEM, and they really do a good job of stopping even when cold.I don't go along with the poor design idea on the brakes. They are amazingly easy to change out (if you have an impact driver) and our 04 V is nearing 45,000 miles on the original pads with just under 1/2 wear left. No warping on either Honda either. The 99 is on set 3 of the fronts and still has the original rear shoes with about 1/4 left.

[Augie Dog]

This is what i have ,i bought car brand new wife drives it abot 100miles a day..The first time we went to mountains the car vibrated bad while going downhill and braking. It also did the same thing while driving on interstate. It vibrates and surges just driving around town. My wife is sole driver and is very conserative driver so much i can't stand to be in car while she is driving.I took the car back to Honda before warranty ran out and they turned the rotors and it operated great. After about three weeks it went right back to where we are now. We now have abot 65,000 k on odometer and i know i am ready for brake job. Is this what i can expect from this vehicle and it's CRAPPY BRAKE SHUTTER AND SHIMMY!! Some thoughts from ya'all. Thanks Augie

[Carbuff2]

Is this what i can expect from this vehicle and it's CRAPPY BRAKE SHUTTER AND SHIMMY!! Some thoughts from ya'all. Thanks Augie

Well Augie,

After 47K miles on our '06 V we have had no shimmy or vibration problems at all. Being in the Rust Belt I have done yearly Brake Service and inspection on the calipers and rotors: lubing the slider pins and greasing under the rear stainless pads as per the TSB 04-006, dated February 20, 2004. Look in the TSB area here for the details.

We still have the factory rotors on our Acura TL as well, 145K miles. Only turned once (due to rusty edges), never replaced.

It always helps to 1) have a clean mating surface between the wheels and hubs. I coat ours with anti-seize to assist in heat transfer and prevent corrosion. 2) ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS torque lug-nuts properly. Don't trust anyone carrying an impact wrench. :eek:

[Augie Dog]

Sorry to bring this up again. Thanks carbuff for the reply. I got side tracked and totally forgot to check back on this site. My rotors started vibrating from the dealer! No wheels were improperly torqued due to this being a brand new vehicle. Brakes and rotors vibrated from the get-go. I am going to do brake job and see if this will eliminate the problem. Now where is best place for parts and what brand of rotors and pads is recommended???? I will monitor this time ...i promise Augie Dog

[Jwood70]

Just because it was bought new from the dealer doesn't mean that the lugs weren't over torqued. FYI

[his-n-hers]

My V is an 03 with 61,000. At the recent oil change at a dealer, I was told my brakes are still okay. My wife and I have been the only drivers of the V since it was new and we are easy on the brakes. Anyhow, there is a clicking comming from the front end at low speeds, sounds like brakes, and I had found a tsb on this to get different brake pad retaining clips installed.

I took the tsb (printed off of this great site) to the dealer and talked to him about it. My option was to buy the new clips and put them in either there or myself, or to not worry about it untill I need a brake pad replacement. I was told the new pads would take care of the clicking and those new clips in the tsb would be thrown away. He was telling me not to waste the time and money now in other words.

So, I am learning alot from this forum and want to get a set of oem pads from H and A and have them installed. Now, do I; A-leave stock rotors on and only put on new pads, or B- have rotors turned with new pads, or C- install new rotors with new pads?

Sorry this is getting long but can anyone tell me if the tsb pad retaining clips are needed or not needed with a set of new pads. The dealer said its now a shim on the new pads and the retaining clips in the tsb are not needed, is this true?

[Serj22]

Sorry this is getting long but can anyone tell me if the tsb pad retaining clips are needed or not needed with a set of new pads. The dealer said its now a shim on the new pads and the retaining clips in the tsb are not needed, is this true?

I'd only get new rotors if the brakes have been chewing them, and I'd go for ceramic pads because they leave less dust on the wheels and they work great. IF the rotors do need replaced, they are fairly inexpensive, and to turn them is even less. But you may not need to turn them at all.

[his-n-hers]

Which ceramic pads do you recommend? I don't need anything fancy and just want the feel of new stock brakes. And, should I do the rears too just to have a fresh start on all 4 wheels?

I have read a lot about brakes in the forum and all the members who have greased the slide pins. I know this has never been done and after reading how important this is I want to do a brake pad install also to get this lube done. With a pad brand recommendation I will get what I need soon.

[Serj22]

The 2nd gen's brakes are designed to wear out at the same time on front and back, so I'd replace all just to be safe. Not sure of the name, but I managed to get some performance ceramics for $60 for the front and $40 for the rear.

[GTCB-chris]

i thought the front end was responsible for like 60% of the breaking, or has this changed?

[Serj22]

IT is responsible for 60% or so. But they are a lot thicker the rear pads are tiny little jokes, so they wear out at exactly the same time, just because the rears are smaller.

[GTCB-chris]

i just noticed that, good design, i guess.