Hitch confusion

[duggmann]

We're looking to get a hitch for our 07 CRV, but we're undecided about the 2" vs. 1.25". Seems like 2" is a bit of overkill for a bike rack, which will likely be its only use.

The other issue is Hitchsource only lists the Curt #13555, which is 2". Etrailer lists the Curt model #12555, which Curt doesn't even list as a model number on their application page. It also looks substantially different than the pictures on the Hitchsource site.

So, 2" or 1.25", and Hitchsource or Etrailer?

[2RedV's]

The 2" is the way to go. (I gave some additional info in your other post about bike racks)

Don't necessarily rely upon web site pictures. They can be wrong. I have purchased from etrailer before and was quite pleased with pricing and delivery as well as the actual products. I also bought a wiring harness adapter which was perfectly designed.

[GordonFan]

I purchased a U-Haul Class II+ with 2". It is actually the Valley brand private labelled. It was easy to put on.

When all is said and done, regardless of 1-1/4" or 2", the price is the same.

Also, alot more items that connect to the hitches are 2". I recommend it.

[RottRide]

2" all the way, the versatility is much better. I haul every thing from bikes and landscaping trailers to my track toy (1985 Mazda RX-7 gutted of course)

[rsbeemer77]

I purchased a Curtis 2.5 Hitch from the Hitch Shop. Approx 150 including shipping to Calif. 2 inch is the way to go. A nice looking heavy duty hitch. Easy installation, except putting the rubber muffler hanger back on. A little dish detergent helped. This is a much better hitch than the factory and at a fraction the cost. You will be happy. At the Hitch Shop, Curtis #12555 It is a Class 2.5 Receiver Hitch
2007 CR-V Glacier Blue

[Jeff M]

The smaller hitch attaches through two holes that YOU drill in the bottom of the storage well. The 2" attaches to four pre-existing holes in the frame, which is why I went with the larger one (Curt/U-Haul). U-Haul wanted $300 installed, I did it myself for about $150. Easy job. Hitch is rated for 3500 lbs, which of course you'd NEVER do. My '06 pulls 1200 lbs pretty nicely, as long as you keep in mind what it is.

[Sandpebble]

You can't exceed 200 LBS tongue weight or 1500 LBS towing weight (trailer and load). The Class I is 1-1/4" for a reason. If someone exceeds the tongue or trailer weight they are going to be in violation of the law and if an accident happens with the cause being the incorrect hitch and load owner is lible not insurance company. The bigger hitches are for framed vehicles not unibody as the CRV is. Get an adapter for 1-1/4" to 2" that recieves bike racks,but do not install 2" hitches on the CRV. Check all the law suites for incorrect hitches and you will see who won. Ford v Uhaul is one.

[2RedV's]

You can't exceed 200 LBS tongue weight or 1500 LBS towing weight (trailer and load). The Class I is 1-1/4" for a reason. If someone exceeds the tongue or trailer weight they are going to be in violation of the law and if an accident happens with the cause being the incorrect hitch and load owner is lible not insurance company. The bigger hitches are for framed vehicles not unibody as the CRV is. Get an adapter for 1-1/4" to 2" that recieves bike racks,but do not install 2" hitches on the CRV. Check all the law suites for incorrect hitches and you will see who won. Ford v Uhaul is one.I have to disagree. The European CR-V's have a much higher tow rating for the same vehicle and has been that way for years. Europeans are required to have trailer brakes for that extra weight though.

There is nothing wrong with using the Curt hitch if you don't exceed the limits of the vehicle - not the hitch which is rated more than the vehicle is. If you have the factory hitch and stand on the hitch, you will bend the underbody mount. (This has been reported before) A bike rack will extend outward and act as a fulcrum/lever. Get the Curt hitch and no worries.

[Sandpebble]

2002 and newer 1500LBS. Older than 2002 1000LBS; Hitch Class I

[2RedV's]

2002 and newer 1500LBS. Older than 2002 1000LBS; Hitch Class IYes, IF one has the US factory hitch which bolts to the tub and not the rear sub-frame and has no trailer brakes. Same vehicle in Europe gets a better hitch and higher weight limits, provided they have trailer brakes, which makes sense.
There have been some cool pics posted of European members in other forums in which they were legally towing much heavier campers and boats.

[Sandpebble]

Since the V's weigh around 3300 LBS (some more some less depending on year)the trailer can't exceed 50% of the towing vehicles weight. If it does the trailer wags the dog. The cart is before the carrage. The wiggle is in the begiggle. The baby is carring the mama. The heavier the trailer the less chance the V has to say on the road. Just not smart to overload the suspension of such a light duty vehicle.

[Boxer]

I need help with my trailer hitch. I needed a 2 inch receiver with an underbody mount. I contacted U-haul because around here, they are suppossed to be the experts. They installed a Class II, 2 inch receiver which was perfect for my needs. I do not intend to exceed the tow weight of the vehicle. It is mainly for a bike rack and I wanted the 2 inch receiver so I could use the same bike rack as our larger SUV. Anyway, I hate the receiver they installed. My muffler now rattles against part of the hitch. I took it back today and they said I should check with a muffler place. I want the hitch taken off because from what I can see, there is no way this hitch won't rattle against the muffler. My husband checked out the muffler and there is nothing wrong. All brackets etc are fine. Any suggestions? Do you think U-haul will remove the hitch and give me my money back. I will probably check into the Curtis hitch mentioned elsewhere in this thread. Anyway one have trouble with other hitches rattling with the muffler?

[2RedV's]

I need help with my trailer hitch. I needed a 2 inch receiver with an underbody mount. I contacted U-haul because around here, they are suppossed to be the experts. They installed a Class II, 2 inch receiver which was perfect for my needs. I do not intend to exceed the tow weight of the vehicle. It is mainly for a bike rack and I wanted the 2 inch receiver so I could use the same bike rack as our larger SUV. Anyway, I hate the receiver they installed. My muffler now rattles against part of the hitch. I took it back today and they said I should check with a muffler place. I want the hitch taken off because from what I can see, there is no way this hitch won't rattle against the muffler. My husband checked out the muffler and there is nothing wrong. All brackets etc are fine. Any suggestions? Do you think U-haul will remove the hitch and give me my money back. I will probably check into the Curtis hitch mentioned elsewhere in this thread. Anyway one have trouble with other hitches rattling with the muffler?Welcome to the forum! :)

I have not heard of people having issues with rattling with any of the various hitches, "U-Haul" brand included.

[2RedV's]

Since the V's weigh around 3300 LBS (some more some less depending on year)the trailer can't exceed 50% of the towing vehicles weight. If it does the trailer wags the dog. The cart is before the carrage. The wiggle is in the begiggle. The baby is carring the mama. The heavier the trailer the less chance the V has to say on the road. Just not smart to overload the suspension of such a light duty vehicle.Not entirely true. How do you explain a 7000 pound truck towing a 12,000+ pound trailer? It just don't wag the dog..

[RinconVTR]

Since the V's weigh around 3300 LBS (some more some less depending on year)the trailer can't exceed 50% of the towing vehicles weight.

Not true at all. Could have been an old "rule of thumb" may be. But I liked the rest of your comments very much!!!

I am again bothered by the continueing efforts to prove the CR-V in America can use the higher ratings given to European models.

FACT is, European ratings do not not apply in the US, and its really unprofessional to continue to imply & hint we can all tow beyond AMERICAN Honda ratings.

[jpod]

I know that towing limits is an old and hot topic on this forum. And for good reason, towing limits are important safety considerations. But the difference between US and European towing limits begs some questions.

My questions are directed at 2RedVs, or RinconVTR, or anyone else who might be able to answer them. And they're not rhetorical questions. Im not trying to make a point, just looking for technical answers.

Why shouldn't European ratings apply in the US, or visa versa? Are European CRVs significantly different than US CRVs? Does Canada have different ratings than the US or Europe? What role do Electric brakes play? Do European ratings apply to surface mounted Class I hitches or frame mounted Class II or Class III hitches?

Im hoping there are some technical answers to these sorts of questions as this summer I am hoping to tow a 2400lb trailer on an extended trip.

JPO

[RinconVTR]

I know that towing limits is an old and hot topic on this forum. And for good reason, towing limits are important safety considerations. But the difference between US and European towing limits begs some questions.

My questions are directed at 2RedVs, or RinconVTR, or anyone else who might be able to answer them. And they're not rhetorical questions. Im not trying to make a point, just looking for technical answers.

Why shouldn't European ratings apply in the US, or visa versa? Are European CRVs significantly different than US CRVs? Does Canada have different ratings than the US or Europe? What role do Electric brakes play? Do European ratings apply to surface mounted Class I hitches or frame mounted Class II or Class III hitches?

Im hoping there are some technical answers to these sorts of questions as this summer I am hoping to tow a 2400lb trailer on an extended trip.

JPO


This is a heated topic fueled by the difference of ratings printed by Honda in different countries. It is ASSUMED they are 100% identical engine and powetrains, but no one knows for sure but Honda. There is no documentation from Honda stating why the difference within OEM manuals exsist.

Same hold true for flat towing CR-V's in Austraila, the OEM manual there says the CR-V cant be flat towed, such as towed on all 4's behind an RV. But here in America, the CR-V's manual says its good to 65mph and RV's love the CR-V. Here the Aussies want to use the US ratings to justify flat towing their CR-V assuming they are identical.

I can also add that I rarely see truck owners who tow 6-8k RV travel trailers try to skirt the limits and exceed ratings. Some RV dealers and even OEM web sites are really jumping on the bandwagon of calculating safe towing weights, because MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, a given tow rating assumes a lot...one being a single driver without payload. There's so much more to tow ratings than meets the eye.

But about the CR-V and all Honda's for that matter...no one knows all the answers but Honda. All we have as "matter of fact" documentation is our OEM manuals.

Lets take a quick look at the Pilot & Odyessy, they have max tow ratings of 3500 using Honda's "tow package". The Pilot can go up to 4500lbs if its a boat...go figure that!!! Both are MUCH bigger and stronger than the CR-V, but only tow up to 3500lbs per Honda. Yet so many claim the CR-V can tow double its rating, 3,000lbs. Should we then assume we can double any rating and claim the Pilot and Odyessy pull 7,000lbs?

To answer your questions directly, most are summed up but the general facts above. The other, such as brake and class of hitch have some bearing. Brakes, per OEM CR-V ratings have no bearing on the subject. The 1500lb rating does not say "with trailer brakes". European ratings last I looked, do require trailer brakes to tow at or near max, but at 3,000lbs all state in the US require brakes also.

Regarding towing a 2400lb trailer with your CR-V, that decision can only be made by you.

[MrDCrV]

After looking at the installation PDFs, I ordered a Hidden Class 3 Hitch ($124.95) from Etrailer and a Hitch Lock and ... . Orders of $150 or more get free shipping, I saved $21.00. I also ordered a Go Rhino 36" Hitch Step ($99.95) from another site, Etrailer only had an 18" Hitch Step. Where I live parking is always a problem so people park on top of you. I would have considered a wrap around rear bumper guard if I had found one. What I ordered gives me more flexibilty for about $250.

http://img170.imagevenue.com/loc800/th_70476_hitch_step_black_122_800lo.jpg (http://img170.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=70476_hitch_step_black_122_800lo.jpg )

[Tim Vance]

I know that towing limits is an old and hot topic on this forum. And for good reason, towing limits are important safety considerations. But the difference between US and European towing limits begs some questions.

My questions are directed at 2RedVs, or RinconVTR, or anyone else who might be able to answer them. And they're not rhetorical questions. Im not trying to make a point, just looking for technical answers.

Why shouldn't European ratings apply in the US, or visa versa? Are European CRVs significantly different than US CRVs? Does Canada have different ratings than the US or Europe? What role do Electric brakes play? Do European ratings apply to surface mounted Class I hitches or frame mounted Class II or Class III hitches?

Im hoping there are some technical answers to these sorts of questions as this summer I am hoping to tow a 2400lb trailer on an extended trip.

JPO
Quick answer - legal liability.
Lets face it, American's are quick to sue anyone for anything...easier to sue the manufacturer than take responsibility for ones own actions :rolleyes:

Without getting into the lengthy debate again, and rehashing opinions that have already been posted (check the previous posts in this thread), you are the only one who can decide what you want to do, or are able to do...

I have many years of experience in commercial transportation, and can advise that unless a vehicle has been specifically designed to tow, I would be wary of exceeding the manufactures limits....

That being said, and unless manufacturers have drastically changed the materials vehicles are made from, the rule of thumb used to be that you didn't exceed 3/4 of the vehicle weight with a towed weight...so if your vehicle Gross Registered Vehicle Weight was 3500 lbs, you should be able to tow 2625 lbs....
BUT there are too many ppl who don't know how to tow at all, don't properly balance their load, don't pay attention, etc, etc...and end up in an accident - and end up being sued, or suing someone else...

There have also been many changes to vehicle manufacture - unit body frames, thinner metals, etc, that will impact how much your vehicle can pull...

So do your homework, and draw your own conclusions...(sorry, but no one here will say, sure go ahead and pull your 2400 lb trailer, it'll be ok...)

btw - check your State regulations in regards to trailer brakes. Personally, I would rather have the piece of mind, and have always installed an electric brake controller for any trailer towed behind my personal vehicle, with a gross weight of 1000 lbs or more...

[jpod]

RinconVTR and Tim Vance, thanks for your well reasoned replies. After some research I realize there is not a technical answer to my question. I’ll have to decide on my own whether I can pull the trailer Id like to pull. And honestly, with all the conflicting information (some of which is published by Honda) I would not advise anyone else about what to tow.

I think the CRV is one of the best engineered and best performing vehicles Ive owned or driven and I don’t doubt Honda’s strategic commitment to safety. However, in regards to towing limits, Honda has actually created a safety issue by publishing two or more significantly different towing specifications for the same vehicle and not clarifying why there are different specs.

In my experience, other manufacturers of trucks and SUVs publish very clear towing specs. I wish Honda would follow suit.

[jpod]

Forgot to ask this question in yesterdays post.

I have decided to get a Class 2 or Class 3 round tube hitch and have checked out various offerings by Curt, Valley, Hidden Hitch, and Reese.

I think any of these would work for me functionally but in some of the images some of the hitches seem (IMO) to look better than others, they seem to conform more closely to the shape of the spare tire well and fit more snugly against the bottom edge of the bumper.

Any oppinions on which hitch fits and looks best?

Thanks
JPO

[06whtcrv]

Forgot to ask this question in yesterdays post.

I have decided to get a Class 2 or Class 3 round tube hitch and have checked out various offerings by Curt, Valley, Hidden Hitch, and Reese.

I think any of these would work for me functionally but in some of the images some of the hitches seem (IMO) to look better than others, they seem to conform more closely to the shape of the spare tire well and fit more snugly against the bottom edge of the bumper.

Any oppinions on which hitch fits and looks best?

Thanks
JPO

The curt fits up tighter to the bumper - the valley hangs a bit lower than the curt.

[jpod]

06whtcrv,
Thanks for feedback. I found some pics of this hitch installed on CRV at HitchSource (Class III Trailer Hitch - By Curt Mfg (http://www.hitchsource.com/hondacrvtrailerhitch0708classiii-p-27809.html))

Looks good. All the customary sources for this hitch sell it for around $150USD delivered. Will probably order one in next few days.

Will send pics and installation experience later.

Happy CRVing
JPO