Oil change

I'll be changing the oil in my daughter's 07, CR-V E, and I have three questions. (1) What are the tightening torque values for the oil pan drain plug and filter?; (2) Can the oil be drained with the front wheels on ramps, i.e., does the drain plug face the rear of the car, and (3) Is the filter above/near the exhaust flex coupling--in a position that the oil will drip on the exhaust piping?

Thanks

I'll be changing the oil in my daughter's 07, CR-V E, and I have three questions. (1) What are the tightening torque values for the oil pan drain plug and filter?; (2) Can the oil be drained with the front wheels on ramps, i.e., does the drain plug face the rear of the car, and (3) Is the filter above/near the exhaust flex coupling--in a position that the oil will drip on the exhaust piping?

ThanksTorque - just use a new crush washer and don't try to be Superman. You will never see a dealer tech use a torque wrench on an oil pan plug. Yes, ramps are OK. However, you don't need it on ramps to drain the oil - but you do need the ramps or to jack it up to get to the oil filter. It's a bugger.
It won't drip on the exhaust.

http://www.handa-accessories.com/oildeflector.jpg

A handy tool, I suspect the dealer's use this for the CRV oil filter removal.

You can get it here (http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvmaint05.html).

I thought that this tool was not required on an 07 CRV, but instead was needed on earlier models. Am I correct?

G'Day people,
On the subject of oil change. I just got a new 07 CR-V and is due for the 1000km service/check-up. In the manual, it says not to change the engine oil until the 10,000km service. Through experience, i always thought that the engine oil should be changed at the 1000km service to remove all the engine residue from the engine manufacturing. Thanks

G'Day people,
On the subject of oil change. I just got a new 07 CR-V and is due for the 1000km service/check-up. In the manual, it says not to change the engine oil until the 10,000km service. Through experience, i always thought that the engine oil should be changed at the 1000km service to remove all the engine residue from the engine manufacturing. Thanks


That believe held true for cars built in the 70s and before... Today's mfg technologies and the cleanliness of the assembled components no longer rely on the engine oil and coolant to flush out the carp the the factory didn't get. In today's low clearance assemblies even small amounts of sand or other dirt could have devastating effects on the engine's and worse yet, the transmission's functions. I have heard / read, but was unable to confirm, that Honda is using a special 'break-in-oil' for the initial delivery and wants one to run it for at least 5,000 miles. Can anyone comment on this?? lizzurd?

That believe held true for cars built in the 70s and before... Today's mfg technologies and the cleanliness of the assembled components no longer rely on the engine oil and coolant to flush out the carp the the factory didn't get. In today's low clearance assemblies even small amounts of sand or other dirt could have devastating effects on the engine's and worse yet, the transmission's functions. I have heard / read, but was unable to confirm, that Honda is using a special 'break-in-oil' for the initial delivery and wants one to run it for at least 5,000 miles. Can anyone comment on this?? lizzurd?


Hi cwalti,
Thanks for your replay. I've heard of the special break-in-oil as well but i can't confirm that. I've been searching the internet for this and haven't found anything solid to back this up.
Also, there's also different school of thought on the subject of oil change as well, hence the reason for the posting of the question here. :)

My dealer also told of the "special break in oil" and to leave it in until the MM says it is time to change. I have also read about it on CR-V forums.
I have a couple of thoughts on this.
A few years ago the government mandated the removal of a zinc compound (zinc causes failure of catalytic converters)that had been added to motor oils, this compound aided in the break in of the camshafts. Specificly flat tappet cams not roller cams, When the additive was removed there was a large increase of camshaft failures, especially in the aftermarket. It is now recommended by the major cam makers to use a Diesel oil (like Shell Rotella) during break in, because it still contains the zinc compound.
Honda camshafts are flat tappet cams.
My assumption is that Honda may be using a additive to get their cams past the crucial beak in period.

I thought that this tool was not required on an 07 CRV, but instead was needed on earlier models. Am I correct?


I have an '06, so you may be right.

No need to "search the internet" for info about Honda's break-in oil. It is in your owner's manual....

The factory oil fill has a high level of moly in it. Kepp it in there. But don't baby the engine. Let it rev, under load (not in neutral) often and give it a good workout. The break-in procedure is really for the brakes, tranny and other assorted gears, not the high revving Honda engine.

There have been multiple threads on this throughout the forum.

Thank you for the clarification! I understand the concept of breaking in a machine but was a bit unclear what it all entails in a modern vehicle. With greatly improved engineering and mfg technologies, much closer tolerancing and vastly superior materials, the term 'breaking in' also transitioned...

However, you don't need it on ramps to drain the oil - but you do need the ramps or to jack it up to get to the oil filter. It's a bugger.
It won't drip on the exhaust.

Ok, we have an '08 on order. Is it going to be a pain to replace the oil filter? My daughter bought a 95 Avalon and I find:

the filter is directly under a very hot exhaust manifold
it drips on the exhaust system

I am not amused. Please tell me the Honda filter is not going to be hard/dangerous to get to or drip on parts that will cause a bad smell until it burns off.

Does anyone use that oil deflector referenced here (http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4867&postcount=3)?

Ok, we have an '08 on order. Is it going to be a pain to replace the oil filter? My daughter bought a 95 Avalon and I find:

the filter is directly under a very hot exhaust manifold
it drips on the exhaust system

I am not amused. Please tell me the Honda filter is not going to be hard/dangerous to get to or drip on parts that will cause a bad smell until it burns off.

Does anyone use that oil deflector referenced here (http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4867&postcount=3)?

I haven't actually done it yet, but I have read that the oil filter is out in the open on the 07 (08 should be the same) and no deflector is needed. I should be able to tell you in a month or so, I am at 30% on the maintenance minder.

Welcome to the club and good luck with you new purchase.

I changed the oil and filter over the weekend. The filter is no problem at all, but the oil plug sits almost perpendicular to the ground. When you pull the oil plug out, it flows backwards in a horizontle stream with some authority. I tried the drip method that 2RedVs spoke about and it dripped so slow that I would still be trying to get it drained. I had the collection pan sitting in the drip mode, and removed the plug a little further at which time it completely threaded out. I tried to hold the plug in place to let it partially flow, but I had the engine hot as the manual states, and it didn't take long for me to decide to get my hand out of that oil. Whoosh it overshot the pan. I slid the pan back but probably dumped about a quart on the floor. But that is what cat litter is for. See my post here:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204&page=2

Below are some pictures of the oil filter and drain plug with the camera on the ground.
1. The edge of the drain plug is just visible at the bottom of the picture.
2. Better shot of the drain plug again with the camera on the ground.
3. Side view but the camera was at an odd angle. The bottom of the oil pan and filter are actually parallel to the ground.

Below are some pictures of the oil filter and drain plug with the camera on the ground.
That is awesome. Thanks. It looks pretty easy. I've had other cars that did the horizontal stream thing, so I'm used to that part. My dealer is having a little gathering of new owners to meet the staff and techs next week. I'm going to ask them to put the CR-V up on the lift so I can see it for myself and get tips about the best way to do this.

That is awesome. Thanks. It looks pretty easy. I've had other cars that did the horizontal stream thing, so I'm used to that part. My dealer is having a little gathering of new owners to meet the staff and techs next week. I'm going to ask them to put the CR-V up on the lift so I can see it for myself and get tips about the best way to do this.

to teach you how to service your car! I think the idea of the get together is so that you will have the techs service the car. Save yourself the effort, put on some old clothes, slide under the front of your V and have look. You don't have to jack it up. I am not the slenderist pencil in the pack and I had no trouble.

Is it common in the US for people to change the oil themselves on a new car?

Here in the UK one wouldn't do it becuase if anything went wrong with the engine, you couldn't prove that the service schedule had been adhered to. So the warranty would be void.

The only way you can save a little money is to buy the oil yourself and pay someone (preferably a dealer) to change it.

I have changed the oil on lots of cars and motorbikes over the years, but I wouldn't touch any of my less than 3 year old Hondas!

There's a US law that says that 'do it yourselfers' don't void the warranty. Unless it is obvious that you didn't change the oil for 50K miles before the engine exploded, I've never heard of a reasonable dealer/vendor who wouldn't honor the warranty.

This forum not withstanding, I'd guess that most folks don't change their own. They use either the dealer or some oil-change shop. Personally, I grew up in a garage (my Dad repaired Volkswagons). I have a jack, stands, etc. And I still do NOT change my own oil. I'd have to go to Pep-Boys (or whereever) to buy it, too messy to change laying on your back and I then have to haul the stuff over to my local recycler to dispose of it. Not worth my hassle. It takes all of 15 minutes or so and I never have to get out of the car.

This forum not withstanding, I'd guess that most folks don't change their own. They use either the dealer or some oil-change shop. Personally, I grew up in a garage (my Dad repaired Volkswagons). I have a jack, stands, etc. And I still do NOT change my own oil. I'd have to go to Pep-Boys (or whereever) to buy it, too messy to change laying on your back and I then have to haul the stuff over to my local recycler to dispose of it. Not worth my hassle. It takes all of 15 minutes or so and I never have to get out of the car.

While I agree with all the arguments presented above, I have owned automobiles for forty years and have never had an oil change that I didn't do myself. I worked in a gas station when I got my first car and I guess it became a habit.

I find the notion of having to make an appointment, and show up for it far more oppressive than doing it myself. The mess is not that bad. I recycle the oil at the autoparts when I buy the next batch. You avoid the shennagans (wrong oil, charge for a filter but don't change it, etc) that are rife in this forum, and you know it has been done right. It takes about 20 minutes.

It is a simple albeit messy job. I can understand the not worth the hassle sentiment, but I must confess that I find doing it myself far less aggravating than making the appointment and wondering if they are doing it correctly.

Change the oil vs cut the grass. I'll take the oil everytime.

.... I tried the drip method that 2RedVs spoke about and it dripped so slow that I would still be trying to get it drained. I had the collection pan sitting in the drip mode, and removed the plug a little further at which time it completely threaded out. I tried to hold the plug in place to let it partially flow, but I had the engine hot as the manual states, and it didn't take long for me to decide to get my hand out of that oil. Whoosh it overshot the pan. I slid the pan back but probably dumped about a quart on the floor. But that is what cat litter is for. ....ROFL I have done that before! Makes you kinda mad, doesn't it? All that careful prep and still a big mess.

ROFL I have done that before! Makes you kinda mad, doesn't it? All that careful prep and still a big mess.

compared to how good my hand felt to be out of that oil. Hot oil is odd stuff. The thermal conductivity is less than water, so when you get splashed with it, you think at first "Oh this ain't so bad." But a few seconds later you decide "Good God, this is really bad." Then its "Yoweeeee, get your hand the hell out of there."

A pound of cat litter took care of the mess.

I use to do all my own work in the past, but because of time, warranty, as well as a place to even do the work, I instead have the dealer do it.

Now-a-days, in the case of doing the engine oil, I simply purchase my own oil and filter, and bring it to the dealer to do. It cost's me between 10 to $15 to have done. The only difference here is you still get to use your own preferred oil and filter, the dealer has a record of the maintence, getting rid of the oil is now their problem and not yours, and finally, the time and labor in doing it, all for 10 to $15. :D

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