Hello, new member, long-time lurker. I hope I've put my thread in the right place, if not, feel free to move it, and my apologies in advance.

So last night my wife informed me that the blower in her 2002 CRV was not working. My first thought (and hope) was a blown fuse, but then she explained that when she started the car, it wasn't working. A few minutes later, it came on, then went off after about a minute. Shortly thereafter she was home. I went to check it out a few hours later, and when I started the car, the blower worked for a minute, but then quit. I poked around under the hood at the fuses & relays for a while, even pulled the fan relay (it was rather warm to the touch, even though I had only been trying to run the blower for about 5 or 6 minutes) and checked the coil resistance (98 ohms) and cycled the relay with a 9-volt battery (did not think to check that it was actually closing the circuit). Put the relay back in, started the car, and again the blower worked for a minute then quit.

I've read through the diagnostic techniques for the transistor and motor, and I'm confident in my abilities to do said tests (plan on doing those tonite), and even replace either or both parts. Beyond that, though, I'm humble enough to think I could be getting in over my head if I need to tear things apart any further. Did anything I described above suggest that there could be something else going on here other than the transistor or motor? The intermittent operation makes me think of some sort of self-resetting thermal fuse, but I don't believe there is one anywhere in the circuit.

Thank you in advance for your help.

So, I picked up a couple of bits, which I was going to adorn my V with. But recently, I have had serious change of plan with it, and am going to continue where I left of 12 months ago, as such, I have a couple of bits up for sale.

So, first up, is my Sports Grill. I have only ever seen one of these fitted, in all my time of looking at Hondas, so when it came up, I grabbed it... Enjoy !!





(this picture isnt mine, but shows how it fits/looks).


This has never been fitted, comes in its original box, with all fixings and instructions.

$350.00 + Shipping costs (to be established). (Original retail on this item was £298.65 + VAT = £350.91 ($540.75))


And more recently, I snagged a set of original Honda Roof Bars, complete with the adjustment tool. Fair warning on these, there is only 3 of the Honda covers for the end, the 4th was missing when I bought them. You MAY be lucky enough to track one down, but, I have told you its not there.







Again, these have never been fitted, even the rubber feet are still all attached together from manufacture.

Open to offers on these, original selling price of them was £228.55 + VAT = £268.54 ($413.82). I am aware that the missing Honda cover may be an issue for some and would expect offers to reflect this. I wouldn't expect offers to try an exploit this !!

PLEASE bear in mind, I am in the UK, and these are quite large items, so shipping wont be cheap. I will be completely transparent with shipping costs, and show you whatever quotes I get, I have no concerns about you arranging your own courier if you wish, and items will be packed to within an inch of their lives !!

Thanks for reading !!

Si

Hi All...I'm Kamarul, a new member from KL, Malaysia. Just got my 2010 crv this month.

Just want to ask you guys (esp in M'sia) whether you install any additional security/locks - or is the standard immobilizer system good enough?

Thanks

The car has a hesitation through the full range of rpm's. I took the VTC control valve out last night and it was not clogged up. It looks like I would have to take the A/C compressor off to get to the bottom bolt of the VTC oil strainer to check it(not looking forward to doing that!). Should I just go ahead and replace the VTC control valve and see if that fixes the problem or should I check the strainer first? Anybody know of problems with these? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Hello, I'm new to this and new to CRV's.
Just bought myself a bootiful CRV (2000 plate). I'm having problems with it stalling at low revs and a "up n down" idle. After looking at various sites n forums I wanna try cleaning the filter in the IACV. But....... i can,t find the damn thing, I've removed the intake manifold resonator and found what i THINK may be the iacv. Does anyone have a pic of it in situ or can give me idiot proof description of where it may be and/or what it looks like.
Many thanks :)

The premium audio system power is rated at 270 watts. The standard audio system is rated at 160 watts. It is easy to assume the standard system is 40 watts per channel because it is a 4 channel audio system. But the premium audio system has a subwoofer so it is not so easy to determine the power distribution.

Does anyone know what the power is for the 4 main channels and for the subwoofer?

I know there is more to the story when considering peak vs rms power but I will stick to my basic question above.

I have a 1st gen, what is the largest I can go on tires without rubbin'?

My first 'major' attempt at DIY auto maintenance...

Yesterday, I replaced the 6 bulbs that light up the heater/AC controls following the guide posted here http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8460

The good news: I was able to replace the bulbs easily and they are working as intended.

The bad news: While re-attaching, I damaged the switch assembly for the hazard lights - and so the hazard light and the turn signals are not working. :o

I had some difficulty when I was re-attaching the switch assembly for the hazard light: The copper component broke off in two pieces and the little bulb broke off at the base when I tried to snap the connecting assembly pieces together.

Illustration #2: Switch Assembly
Illustration #13: bulb for hazard light

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/z...e&x=1107&y=553



I know I will need to buy a replacement bulb but I'm not sure if I need to buy the whole switch assembly just for the broken copper piece. Has anyone every run into this issue before? And can provide any suggestions on the most cost effective way to fix this - I would greatly appreciate it. :)

Additional info: The hazard light/switch assembly connection had to be detached so that the dashboard pocket could be taken out so that I could access the two screws holding in the heater control unit.

A couple of months after I bought my CR-V 2010, a particularly bad rainstorm occurred and caused a leak in the interior of my car to the right of the drivers side window. When I was seated in the driver's seat, the leak was above my head to the right, near where the door meets the left of the front window. It was very wet, actually mushy with water. I got out of the car and pushed down on the plastic runner that goes down the roof of the car, and the leak stopped and never came back. Right after that, electrical problems started happening. The display started telling me that either the driver's door or the driver's side rear door was open.The interior lights wouldn't go off. My car alarm would go off for no reason even though I only pushed the lock button once on the remote. Pushing once shouldn't engage the alarm, it should just lock. I took it to the Honda place, where they put it through a vigorous water test for an hour and a half and could not recreate the issue. It didn't happen again for three months..the other night, rainy again, the car alarm went off for no reason, and once I pressed the remote to stop it, the interior lights would not go off. Again it said the driver's side passenger door was open when it wasn't. I don't know what to do because the Honda place said there wasn't anything they could do unless I brought it there while it was happening. I can't lock my car anymore for fear it will happen again. Any suggestions?

Hi to all. Just thinking about replacing original stereo with one of the following: JVC KW-XR811, Clarion CX609E or Pioneer FH-P80BT. I want double DIN and BT connectivity. From the reviews i've read there doesn't seem too much between them except the price. The JVC is the cheapest @£173, then the Clarion. I believe any of them will fit straight into the radio slot without modification? Eventually, i may replace speakers but would also prefer them to be a straight replacement without modification.

Just wondered if any members have experience of these units.

Many thanks,
Keith

Hey everyone, I just joined the forum and hate to do it like this but I have to start off with an urgent question as I think I'm onto an extremely good buy. I need answers fast -hope every understands where I am, I don't want this one to get away. In the future I hope to contribute to make up for it but PLEASE HELP.

It's an '08 CR-V EX 4d 2wd with 33k on it. All is excellent except for one thing: As the owners story goes, they ran it in a pothole about 9,000 miles back and damaged a tire. Took it to "Tire King" (bad idea, I know) and was charged for a part (couldn't remember name of it), an alignment and 2 new front tires, (bill = $800).

Here's the issue. The right front tire is already worn down twice that of the left front (but worn very evenly). Again these tires were supposed to have been brand new. I checked the air pressure (my own gauge) and the worn (right front) tire was at 25psi(cold). The still new looking (left front) tire was at 27.5psi cold.

I drove the car and noticed nothing unusual about it's handling. Namely it did not seem to drive like anything was out of alignment still. I realize the tire pressure in both are low and have 2.5lbs difference in them.

My questions are: 1) shouldn't the auto tire pressure sensors be alerting to this? 2)Any ideas on what the cause of that one tire to be worn twice as much as the other in only 9000 miles since new?

I very very sincerely appreciate any help since I hope to make a decision on this tomorrow.

I just got a call from my salesguy who told me that my 2010 Urban Titanium EX-L was scheduled to be produced yesterday. I was surprised they were still making the 2010's, so I'm betting I'll be getting one of the last ones made.

Even though it's being made in Ohio and I live in Louisville, KY, it will still take about a week for it to get here. So, I'm expecting it around the Sept 10th.

I can't wait.

Maybe a stupid newbie question but I searched and didn't find the answer.

I got a 2000 v and was told it was an LX, but all the LXs I see have steel wheels and mine has alloys. Maybe they were changed out but there is no indicator anywhere on the v as to what it is. No pic up yet but it has non color match bumpers, power windows and locks, no sunroof or roof rack, vinyl spare cover, abs. AWD, and cloth seats....Is there a part of the vin that states model? THX.....:)

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This is what I was thinking of replacing my CR-V's stereo and speakers with:

Rosen HD0710 Navigation Receiver - I know there are better performing navigation units for this price but I really would like to keep the factory look and steering wheel controls. Has anyone had any experience with this unit?: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_135HD07...ures_and_specs

Front Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/s_091130V...RS.html?tp=105

Rear Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/s_065SC55...55.html?tp=105

Subwoofer: http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1369442...rl.html?tp=113

Is this a pretty good mix?

I am trying to get this bolt off and it wont move a bit and am about to give up and take it to the dealer, but thought I try for a little while longer.

Has anyone tried to remove this before? The only thing I can think of is maybe I am just pulling in the wrong direction. Every website says that "most" Hondas require a counter clockwise pull, is it possible that the CR-V is the exception?

Thanks for any help given.