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#11 |
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crv|oc Rank: Stuffing
1999
4WD LX 5AT
Satin Silver Metallic Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 6
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OK, I'm going for broke and punching through that red arrow grommet, unless anyone wants to wave me off--I'd love to hear from someone who can confirm that this one is OK.
I'll let you all know if fluids come gushing out. Pops |
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#12 |
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Moderator
2000
*Not a CR-V owner
Sahara Sand Metallic Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: myrtle beach south carolina
Posts: 2,277
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dont just stab it or anything see if you remove it and check for problems then b you can make a more precise hole in the grommet. but if i were you i could also seal around both sides of the hole with RTV silicone once the wire is in place. i did that on my V and on my blazer
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If you have any forum issues, questions, or comments please send me a private message! Forum etiquette please read before posting CR-V|OC STORE! 1984 Chevy K5 Blazer 4X4 350ci 5.7l v8 .030 over bore flat tops aluminum intake, edelbrock performer carb low & mid range RV cam 33'' Dayton timberline A/T Flowmaster super 44 true duals R.I.P 2000 Cr-v SE RT4WD |
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#13 |
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crv|oc Rank: Stuffing
1999
4WD LX 5AT
Satin Silver Metallic Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 6
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Great News!
The upper grommet (red arrow) popped right off with a screwdriver and it's a hole right through to just slightly above the passenger's leg area.
Thanks everyone for the help! |
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#14 |
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Moderator
2002
4WD EX 5AT
Other Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: California, Bay Area
Posts: 3,712
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Like I said before, now that you have a spot to run a wire through, make sure it's protected when it touches the firewall. Grommetted.
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#15 |
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MECP Audio Expert
1998
4WD LX 5MT
Sebring Silver Metallic Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 1,335
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per the op request I am posting in the thread for this install to help.
I am not "back". The first fire wall pick with the top gromit is fine. As you apparently did, just pop it off and you will see how to get through it. I would use the original gromet as the new one, by drilling it out with a unibit to the exact size. Then it is a perfect fit and seal back into the fire wall and protects the wire, and the car from burning down. Putting a coat hanger into the wire, then taping them together and adding a tiny but of lotion or soap gets the wire through a pre-existing gromet or wired area, and helps as a guide for most firewall pull issues. On the oposite side of the car there is also a large wire loom area going through the fire wall that you can also feed the power wire through, and is what is done on 90% of all vehicles that dont need a new hole made, or when there is no blank gromet available. Once in the vehicle please use zip ties under the dash and behind the glove box, and in the engine bay. (like you own stock in the company). Wire loom helps to make the install look stock. Keep the wire away from clips and anything that can knick it when putting the trim pieces back on doing down the length of the car, past the B and C pillars. Grind all the paint off the metal where the ground will go, using 3 self tapping screws and lock washers. Make sure the ground is at least the same size wire as the power wire, and keep it 8 inchs or less if possible, if not, it's ok. Only use spade and ring terminals. If the amp needs them. Dont just shove the wire in and hope the fringes done touch each other and burn the car down. Dont skimp out on good rca's, you will get noise. Alternator whine is from a bad ground BTW. Dont tap the remote wire into the fuse box, run it to the acc. at the radio only. Mount the amp, but not to the box. Any more questions, pm me..... I might get the pm eventually....-Later |
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| amplifier , firewall , generation 1 , installation , subwoofer |
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