electronic load detector on a 98?

[illegal]

So I just fixed my a/c and when I turn it on at idle the rpm's drop, and dont readjust. it goes down to 400rpm, and the clutch cant engage on the compressor, at 800rpm it's fine, so it works when I drive but I cant figure out why the cars not adjusting to the load and readjusting the rpm. It does it a little when the lights are on at night, and I have no other issues. I adjusted the throttle cable with the a/c on to 800, but of course when it's turned off at idle it goes to 1200rpm, so I put it back.

Any idea's?

[illegal]

anyone?????

?????////////////?????

[illegal]

Originally Posted by illegal

anyone?????

?????////////////?????

?????????????

[Dahmer]

**** man that sucks. I hate it when you don't get replies. thus I respond just so that it can get bumped up to the top for you. I don't actually know anything that would help your idle speeds. I just cut the belt on my A/C a week ago actually:P

anyhow best of luck

[tsmithvt]

Missed the thread for some reason.

Electronic Load Detector (ELD) would certainly be a good suspect if Gen 1 had one. In Gen 2 Vs the ELD is located in the engine compartment fuse box.

San Leandro Honda Online Parts
Part #19 (2006 Vs)

I have never seen one referenced for Gen 1, however.

[illegal]

I found that it is the brown box in the under hood fuse box, I just have to swap it out to see if that fixes the problem. I dont think it's the alternator

[illegal]

swapped it out, no change. I am going to go through the iac reset procedure to see if it works, if it does i will explain how to do it. I will try this when I get off work this afternoon.

[illegal]

got the iac code all week on vacation, but I have a brand new one!? I guess I'll have to get another one again?!

[illegal]

get a #1 and random misfire again! Random...

[illegal]

well I figured some stuff out. The misfires are due to me haveing a 98 AUTO jdm b20. It is the usdm ecu, which doesnt make much of a difference, but the bypass for not haveing the crankshaftspeed fluctuation sensor must be the culprit. You take those 2 wires normally and add them into another 2 wires for the bypass, which has been done.

I also have a fast idle thermo valve, but I have a manual, so I'm looking into that. I wouldnt think it would make much difference, haveing it just runs the coolant line less directly, by I may bypass it to see.

I did a continuity test on the Idle Air Control valve and got a good reading, but all my reserch came up with differnt wire colours and ecu pinout locations, so thats back to square one. At least the wires are not cut.

I wish it had a usdm swap in it to not have the headaches, but I will have to contact the installer and complain for now, and see what can be done. Problem being it was done before I purchased it, but I know the guys/shop that did it.

All idle reset procedures are a bomb, and I dont even throw a code with the damn thing unplugged!