Trouble Identifying High Speed Brake/Wheel Vibration - Page 5
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Thread: Trouble Identifying High Speed Brake/Wheel Vibration

  1. #41
    crv|oc Rank: Junior
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    Wow, that is a bizarre outcome! I would never have predicted it. But it does go to show that sometimes, if you want it done right, you just have to do it yourself. Or, to add some humor, an ounce of observation is worth a pound of gesticulation. A cautionary tale, to be sure.

    FYI, I use PB Blaster in my shop, too, but go find a can of Kroil and see if you don't like it better for breaking things loose. I rebuild Quincy compressors, and have found it to be excellent stuff.

    Thank you very much for keeping us in the loop on this, it's valuable information, for sure!
    Larry


    Now that I've learned my lesson, I'm supremely confident that next time I'll make a different mistake.


    2007 CR-V EX-L AWD Green Tea Metallic
    1991 Ford F250 Lariat Supercab LWB 4X4, 460 AT

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  4. #42
    Everything in Moderation Carbuff2's Avatar
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    Glad it is resolved.



    I’ve never heard of a paste that would not squeeze out.

    I use anti-seize between the wheels and rotor to act as a heat sink. Same thought as the heat sink grease we coat the mounting areas of power transistors.


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    Atwell "Buff" Haines
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  5. #43
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kloker View Post
    Wow, that is a bizarre outcome! I would never have predicted it. But it does go to show that sometimes, if you want it done right, you just have to do it yourself. Or, to add some humor, an ounce of observation is worth a pound of gesticulation. A cautionary tale, to be sure.

    FYI, I use PB Blaster in my shop, too, but go find a can of Kroil and see if you don't like it better for breaking things loose. I rebuild Quincy compressors, and have found it to be excellent stuff.

    Thank you very much for keeping us in the loop on this, it's valuable information, for sure!
    Yeah, i was pretty surprised myself. It looked just like some delaminated rust at first. Then i ran my fingers over the surface after cleaning the first time, and it was still raised up and that's when i realized something else was on there. Rust won't survive more than a brushing or two, and the majority of the hub was clean steel after the first round of cleaning. Would have been much easier with power tools, let me tell you...

    I spent my whole life working on cars (out of necessity, not desire) without the use of penetrating oil. I'd tried wd-40 in the past but was never really impressed; never thought it helped. When i got my first real job out of grad school at age 26, I was out on a bridge inspection with my project manager Ruel and we needed to stop to get some KY for the D-meter cause we ran out of gel. He grabbed a bottle of PB blaster for himself at that Walmart that day for the Jeep he works on, which i inquired about.

    Next time my Accord needed work, i grabbed myself a can...i was blown away. I couldn't believe i hadn't discovered the stuff earlier. It's a life saver. It's saved my ass so many hours of effort. It also works amazingly well at silencing door pins in a house BTW! Like, it's a permanent fix for sqeaky doors, no BS. No reapplication periodically, like with silicone spray. You just gotta spray the pins outside and let the fumes wear off for a bit or your house will wreak of chemicals. I did all my squeaky doors about 1.5 years ago, and I've heard nothing from them since, not a single one has squeaked even a little.

    I'm definitely open to trying other things. My two biggest complainants with PB blaster are (a) the smell, which makes using indoors very challenging, and (b) the spray stream. The stuff gets all over everything. Why is it even in an aerosol can? It should just be in a dropper bottle. I used so many paper towels yesterday just trying to shield other components from overspray.

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  7. #44
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbuff2 View Post
    Glad it is resolved.



    I’ve never heard of a paste that would not squeeze out.

    I use anti-seize between the wheels and rotor to act as a heat sink. Same thought as the heat sink grease we coat the mounting areas of power transistors.


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    Well I'm just speculating that it was paste. I mean what else would someone put back there? It was too thick to be anti-seize. It was too difficult to remove to be grease. It wasn't simply delaminated rust. Not sure what else that leaves. Chewing gum? Ha ha

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  8. #45
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    I have a theory on the mystery material.

    So I decided to take a photo of the passenger hub and rotor before cleaning (see links below). It doesn't look too out of the ordinary in the photos. But if you look at the rotor, it appears there's some residue left on the rotor from the manufacturing/packaging. You know that sticky yellow crap that's damn near impossible to remove without power tools. I bet that's what's all over the hub. It probably just transferred surfaces over the years through all the heating and cooling, and probably infused with some delaminated rust to become super annoying sticky yellow crap.

    https://flic.kr/p/2foa49v
    https://flic.kr/p/24LB4H2

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  9. #46
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfehr613 View Post
    Thanks. Do they typically add a bevel along the edge as well do you know?
    I've never seen a bevel on any of my rotors. The outer edge is machined square (90 degrees).

  10. #47
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kloker View Post
    Wow, that is a bizarre outcome! I would never have predicted it. But it does go to show that sometimes, if you want it done right, you just have to do it yourself. Or, to add some humor, an ounce of observation is worth a pound of gesticulation. A cautionary tale, to be sure.

    FYI, I use PB Blaster in my shop, too, but go find a can of Kroil and see if you don't like it better for breaking things loose. I rebuild Quincy compressors, and have found it to be excellent stuff.

    Thank you very much for keeping us in the loop on this, it's valuable information, for sure!
    Meant to post this follow-up sooner...

    So the following weekend i went back to finish the rear brakes which i was also never able to get the brackets off of months before. This time, i got myself an 18" breaker bar and a set of shallow impact sockets (figured i might as well just spring for the impact ones, since shallow 6-points aren't always easy to find anyway therefore get expense). Also got myself a Kano Kroil and some little dropper bottles on Amazon (DO NOT EVER order flammable liquids from Amazon! Zero packaging, zero labeling, damaged bottle! But no leaks thank God!).

    Dude... That stuff is amazing! It really does put PB blaster to shame. And i thought PB blaster was awesome! Before taking the caliper off, i threw a couple drops on the bracket bolts. I didn't even need to attempt it with the breaker bar on either side. Got both with a 1/2" drive rachet in like 3 seconds. I couldn't even believe it.

    I did have a HELL of a time getting the rotors off though. I didn't realize they were those combo disc/drum brakes in the rear for the parking brake. Wasn't even thinking about the fact that the rotor was shaped like a freaking bowl lol. The parking brakes weren't set, but those things still took me like 2-3 hours to get off. Almost gave up on the second. I emptied so much Kroil AND PB blaster into the crevasses, and was wacking the back side as hard as i could with a regular hammer. Wasn't moving. Though eventually it gave way. I feel like there's some way to back those things off IIRC from last time i serviced drum brakes (2002? Lol), but i was so covered in brake dust, anti-seize, and grease, i didn't want to get out my phone to look it up. I figured it out my way. Also, don't ever buy "coated" rotors, that is, unless they make it a point to protect the interface at the hub and at the parking brake. Advance Auto rotors are just completely coated. Took forever to clean those surfaces, then took an extra long test drive to burn off the coating on the regular disc surface so i could properly bed the brakes.

    Brakes are buttery smooth now You want something done right, gotta do it yourself.

    Unfortunately, now we're having repeat issues with the AC, and i just went off on the shop who we'd just paid $900 for a new compressor (there's more to that story). AC is an obvious limitation with this rule Ain't no way i can evac and charge lines.



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  11. #48
    crv|oc Rank: Junior BDub's Avatar
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    For future reference, if you pop the rubber plug out of the rotor face and roll it down to the bottom, you will find the brake shoe adjuster. Just back it off and they should come off pretty easy.
    -Brent

    2018 Honda Accord 2.0T Touring
    2012 Honda Civic Si
    2006 Honda CR-V EX 6 Speed Manual 4WD
    2000 Honda CR-V EX 4 Speed Automatic 4WD

  12. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDub View Post
    For future reference, if you pop the rubber plug out of the rotor face and roll it down to the bottom, you will find the brake shoe adjuster. Just back it off and they should come off pretty easy.
    Thanks. I knew there was something like that in there. I did see the plug and all. Just felt like wacking it with a hammer instead of getting down on my hands and knees in broken glass and rat bones.

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  13. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfehr613 View Post
    Thanks. I knew there was something like that in there. I did see the plug and all. Just felt like wacking it with a hammer instead of getting down on my hands and knees in broken glass and rat bones.

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    Thought I had it bad having to work in the dirt sometimes.
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    2018 Honda Accord 2.0T Touring
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