'99 LX starting and running issues
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Thread: '99 LX starting and running issues

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member kalanikaau's Avatar
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    '99 LX starting and running issues

    I am experiencing problems with my '99 LX 4x2 automatic with 200K miles which started about a month ago, the issue has been increasing in frequency recently.

    After a 'hot soak' period of about half an hour, the engine will not start, it just cranks but won't fire up. If I am lucky enough to get it running, the idle is higher than normal, about 1200 rpm.
    Additionally, placing it any drive gear will cause the engine to stall, followed by another extended crank time to get it running. I neglected to check spark quality @ the spark plug cable.

    The check engine light does not come on when this happens, yes the light works. The ECU is not displaying any trouble codes at all.

    Cold engine starting is fine, the problem only happens after the warm engine has been shut down for half hour or so. I suspect it may be a distributor issue, the unit appears to be original.

    Has anyone experienced this problem?

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    It could be the Main Relay. Check for spark or the quality of spark when this happens. Was anything done before this happened?

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    crv|oc Rank: Member kalanikaau's Avatar
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    Thanks for your response,
    Are you referring to the PGM-FI main relay? If so, doesn't this relay deal exclusively with fuel delivery?
    I will check for spark the next time the problem happens.
    Absolutely nothing has been done to the vehicle repair wise prior to this issue.

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    crv|oc Rank: Freshman CRnotVtec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalanikaau View Post
    Are you referring to the PGM-FI main relay? If so, doesn't this relay deal exclusively with fuel delivery?
    He is, and you're right. The solder joints on the Main Relay tend to go crack over time, and when there's heat involved they can expand causing a poor connector. Hence, hard/no starting. The coil and the ignitor are the weak points in the distributor, however once they go bad then it'll never start. There's no in between, so I don't think that's your issue at this point.

    Check also the ground on the thermostat, it's the main ground for the ECU and Main Relay, I've seen these get loose overtime. It's a small 10mm head bolt on the thermostat housing itself.

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    crv|oc Rank: Member kalanikaau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRnotVtec View Post
    He is, and you're right. The solder joints on the Main Relay tend to go crack over time, and when there's heat involved they can expand causing a poor connector. Hence, hard/no starting. The coil and the ignitor are the weak points in the distributor, however once they go bad then it'll never start. There's no in between, so I don't think that's your issue at this point.

    Check also the ground on the thermostat, it's the main ground for the ECU and Main Relay, I've seen these get loose overtime. It's a small 10mm head bolt on the thermostat housing itself.
    Thanks for your response.
    Inspection of the relay revealed it to be (I assume) the OEM Mitsuba relay, I'll change it out as it is not very expensive.
    The ground connection is tight and secure, I had cleaned it several years ago when I replaced the cooling system thermostat.
    Will keep you posted.

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    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    CRnotVtec is right it could also be the ground point bolt of the thermostat. If you like you can test the Main Relay PGM-FI. When the symptoms arise , take out the ignition key then remove the Main Relay & take out the cover spray something to cool down the solder on top of the relay. Then plug it back, see if its runs normally. It's the best that you replace it. I have a few collections of these Main Relay. Let us know.

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    Usually an ignitor (takes the place of points) will start failing when it gets warmer. Then, finally will just quit and never work again.
    A weak ignition coil usually presents itself with hard starting due to a weak spark.
    Have you ever changed the fuel filter that is mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the firewall? Pretty easy to change, but just be aware of the fuel pressure that stays in the line. There are good vids online on youtube on how to properly and safely change that filter. Pretty easy. overall.
    Here is a link to possible ignition problems on that gen of CRV: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda...system-tests-1

    Buffalo4

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    crv|oc Rank: Member kalanikaau's Avatar
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    Thanks for your response.
    As it turns out, the problem was with the PGM-FI main relay. Inspection of the faulty unit revealed separation of soldered connections on it's PC board.
    The fuel filter on this vehicle is easily accessible, try locating the filter on a circa mid seventies Civic CVCC of which I owned 3. It has been my experience that a restricted fuel filter will manifest itself when the engine is under a load (such as climbing a ling incline).
    Mind you a CVCC engine equipped Civic, the Civic 1200's fuel filter was located in the engine compartment. I only owned 1 of these, a Hondamatic which only had 2 forward gears (slow and slower)

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    crv|oc Rank: Silver
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalanikaau View Post
    Thanks for your response.
    As it turns out, the problem was with the PGM-FI main relay. Inspection of the faulty unit revealed separation of soldered connections on it's PC board.
    The fuel filter on this vehicle is easily accessible, try locating the filter on a circa mid seventies Civic CVCC of which I owned 3. It has been my experience that a restricted fuel filter will manifest itself when the engine is under a load (such as climbing a ling incline).
    Mind you a CVCC engine equipped Civic, the Civic 1200's fuel filter was located in the engine compartment. I only owned 1 of these, a Hondamatic which only had 2 forward gears (slow and slower)
    Thanks for the reply! We're glad that you found the problem!

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