CRV MK2 2006 Diesel (Manual ) - judder pulling away in second.
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Thread: CRV MK2 2006 Diesel (Manual ) - judder pulling away in second.

  1. #1
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    CRV MK2 2006 Diesel (Manual ) - judder pulling away in second.

    Hi all,
    I love my 2006 MK2 CRV and have started soending money on her as I plan to keep the car for several years yet.

    I recently replaced front suspension struts and springs, track rod ends, front pads and some bent wheel studs, rear pads ( all work done Myself ).

    I still have the nearside rear pads to replace , as the calliper piston was seized solid . I'm waiting on a new piston and seals kit to arrive.

    Here's my problem that is particularly annoying as I am getting on top of the jobs on the car.

    Pulling away in second gear I get a short wobble or judder/vibration. No noise really, just the vibrating judder that lasts a second or two. It's fine pulling away in 1st gear, then I change to 2nd and as I pull away, the initial acceleration brings about the judder for a second and I accelerate past it.

    This was even more pronounced prior to changing the front suspension ( the front offside shocker had completely given up the ghost).

    Currently I'm thinking:

    1) Engine or gearbox mount ( most favourable)

    2) Drive shaft(s)

    3) Clutch , bearing or dmf .

    Anyone have any ideas on here? . I really want to get the car problem free and look after it as it is a brilliant vehicle .

    All responses very much appreciated.

    Thanks
    Mark

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  3. #2
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    I have since taken the prop shaft off to rule that out. Still have the judder .
    A mechanic suggests drive shafts but is not certain as nothing is too obvious .
    The judder is pronounced pulling away in second but at other speeds too and a pulling towards the right ( drivers side here in UK).
    Where is the best place to buy the drive shafts? . I'm guessing from what I gave read here that original reconditioned ones is the way to go over aftermarket ones. New from Honda is absolutely out of the question.

  4. #3
    Super Moderator rocky's Avatar
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    Interesting case.

    Those 2.2 diesels have a dual mass flywheel. It's very common for DMFs to generate a shudder that's when it's very severe can cause the shifter to visibly vibrate.

    I'm guessing that if you are accelerating harder in second than in other gears, then perhaps you are seeing evidence that the DMF is getting to the end of its life.

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    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky View Post
    Interesting case.

    Those 2.2 diesels have a dual mass flywheel. It's very common for DMFs to generate a shudder that's when it's very severe can cause the shifter to visibly vibrate.

    I'm guessing that if you are accelerating harder in second than in other gears, then perhaps you are seeing evidence that the DMF is getting to the end of its life.

    Hi Rocky,
    Thank you for replying.
    I had initially thought DMF may be the problem, the car has now done 107,000 miles and I suspect it is the original clutch and DMF.
    A mechanic said if it was the dmf, you would hear a knocking sound when switching engine off?.

    I don't know what to think.
    We have had this car two years and I love it, it is so practical for the family. Money is very tight at present, so I really could do with replacing only the failing parts.
    A local parts place can supply a LUK clutch and dmf kit for £500 . That is still a sizeable wedge of money on our tight budget. I have not fitted a clutch before but will likely have a go at doing this one, should it be needing it . ( I do all my own servicing , replace brakes , suspension parts etc).

    Are there any other tell tale signs of the dmf failing?

    Thanks
    Mark

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    Super Moderator rocky's Avatar
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    The ultimate proof of DMF failure is total loss of drive.
    If your gearstick starts a crazy dance/vibration when you are driving along then you have your diagnosis.

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    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky View Post
    The ultimate proof of DMF failure is total loss of drive.
    If your gearstick starts a crazy dance/vibration when you are driving along then you have your diagnosis.
    Hmm, gearstick has no vibration at all ( nice to know the symptoms though).
    I full expect to have to replace the clutch and dmf going forward at some point.

    Looks like drive shaft is the main suspect then?

    When I replaced a rubber gaitor on drivers side, I noticed the bottom swivel hub ball joint is fairly worn and plan on replacing both sides, but doubt this is the cause of the problem.

    Would you say a worn inner cv joint could cause judder and pulling to one side?

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    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    One more thing:
    I noticed a noise in engine bay that I don't recall hearing before when Revving car, so opened bonnet and discovered sound coming from air filter box. Mechanic guy said it's just the sound of turbo gate valve opening and shutting.
    I took a short video here:
    https://youtu.be/tUlpZ6URyGY

    Does this sound normal for the Diesel engine ?

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    Super Moderator rocky's Avatar
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    I'm more familiar with Land Rover diesels than Honda diesels. You just don't see Honda diesels here. You hear noises with the bonnet/hood up you don't hear behind the wheel. Sounds good to me.

    I'm thinking you need to just drive it a bit more. Let the vibration issue make its presence clearer.

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    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky View Post
    I'm more familiar with Land Rover diesels than Honda diesels. You just don't see Honda diesels here. You hear noises with the bonnet/hood up you don't hear behind the wheel. Sounds good to me.

    I'm thinking you need to just drive it a bit more. Let the vibration issue make its presence clearer.
    Thank you Rocky, sounds like a plan . I must admit it is driving me nuts though, I just want to get to the bottom of it.
    Will be a few weeks before I can afford drive shafts , go on from there.

  12. #10
    crv|oc Rank: Member
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    After sleeping on it, here is my plan of action going forward.

    I have the propshaft off, so be easy to jack up front ( with axle stands) and rev up car to visually see front wheels moving and hopefully see which side the judder is coming from .

    Replace offending drive shaft .

    Many posts on here state aftermarket drive shafts are simply no good.

    Contacting some drive shaft firms here in the U.K., they state their drive shafts ( brand new ones) are top quality to British ISO standards etc and come with 12 month warranty.

    Original Honda refurbished shafts are around £50 each more expensive but a seller in ebay gives theirs a 2 year guarantee.

    Anybody had success stories with aftermarket or refurbed drive shafts?

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