So something like this?
Amazon.com
I could splice the wires off of the plug, and route them through the headliner. my only concern would be cooling if it was flush mounted. Any suggestions on that front? Looking at the fuses for the rear of the vehicle, there is nothing close to the amperage required by the above inverter. I have a few spare 30 A inline fuses, so would there be any problem with just running some 8 gauge through the firewall, up the a pillar, through the headliner and down the C pillar? Is there usually a ground bolt near the cigarette lighter? Or would I have to run a ground wire back to the battery? Thanks!
View attachment 160128
I was thinking more along the lines of
this one, which has actual power bind posts to it in my first response.
For the unit you linked, no power posts, so if it was me, I would eliminate the 12v socket plug entirely on the power cable into the inverter, and then hardwire the inverter cable with a cable extension up to the battery in the engine compartment. Attach a
small eyelet or blade contact to each wire and then install the eyelet/blade connection under the small bolts on the battery terminals, and tighten it back down. That gives you a rugged electrical connection, and then you route the cable somewhere through the firewall and up through the headliner to the rear of the vehicle and then connect to the inverter there. Be sure to put a 30 amp fuse in the 12 power line to the inverter. Way better than trying to tap off some existing fused path in the vehicle.
Personally, being an electrical engineer by profession (now retired) I would not use the chassis for the ground path, but rather route both a power and a ground wire up to the engine compartment. I don't trust chassis for small wire grounding, as if you do not do everything perfect, you will end up with a ground fault later at some point.
