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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings all. I've been troubleshooting an issue with my drivers side door for some time now and finally just decided I'd post here and see if someone may be able to help me.

Brief background. I have a 02 CRV LX which was purchased used, so I'm the second owner. It came with an aftermarket keyless entry system installed at time of purchase. Some years later we decided to add a Viper 5101 Remote start / keyless box as a gift for my wife. Somewhere a few months later the drivers door actuator started to mess up, not unlocking. I replaced the actuator with help from a video online and I remember it working again.

Some time after that the Viper began to die on me, first it stopped starting by remote, then weeks later unlocking, finally locking as well. SO I resorted to using the key cylinder in the door and went about my merry way.

For several months now, my key in the door has been sticky and would take 20 tries to unlock. It finally died on me completely last week, so I ordered a replacement Honda cylinder with 2 new keys, and installed it today.

I also purchased a new actuator to put in while I had it all apart. And a new door switch just to make sure that wasn't causing any issues.

After working on it today, the key cylinder works great again, but the actuator is still not allowing the door to unlock, or unlock all doors. Prior to the rebuild today the key would open all locks if turned to the unlock side, and lock all as well, but the switch would not unlock, it only locks.

The switch was doing the same thing prior to the rebuild, it only locked, no unlock no matter what, unless turning the key on the door outside.

Now even turning the key will not unlock all doors, meaning I have no access to my rear door at all. What did I do wrong?

Also, is there any way for me to figure out why the door switch won't trigger the actuator to unlock, only lock? I tested the switch I had and it works fine, even tried the new switch. I also installed the original actuator which was unlocking with the key and it still doesn't unlock.

I remember the switch on the door working even after the Viper box died on me, so I don't want to blame it for my issues. I also checked the wires tapped to the Viper and the only wires connected are T'd to the switch lock - unlock, no wires cut under the dash. To the best of my knowledge it's completely dead, and somehow still lets me start my car even though I'm sure it's outfitted with some sort of starter kill.

My end goal is to have the key unlock and lock all doors as it used to, and the door switch as well. I am stumped at where to look next. I have to be missing something with the switch, and maybe I messed something up internally in the latch when installing to prevent the key from now unlocking?

Any guidance much appreciated. This issue is plaguing me!

HH
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I may try and order a new latch all together if needed, but there are 2 versions, one Japan build and the other Great Brittan. I wonder if the 2 would fit in either vehicle if you changed the actuator as well. I could use help with the correct latch part number for replacement if it comes to it.

I am good with a tester as well, If needed I can test wires here and there.
 

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Usually the ones we get here in North America is from Japan the year you have but double check it. If the VIN # starts from JH its from Japan. I would suggest to try to reset the system by disconnecting the negative terminal for 10 minutes be sure you have the radio code handy? Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Glad I picked the coldest day of this year to work on this issue.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, My model is a Japan model. I haven't pulled the battery in some time, but it's been drained, died, jumped several times since the unlock issue started.

I tested a few things earlier, my results were somewhat puzzling.

I have 12 volt power on both the unlock and lock wires under the kick panel and where T'd to the aftermarket alarm. I only have 12 volt power at the unlock side on the switch harness, the unlock harness is 0 volts. Black I assume is a ground. (driver door)

So, somehow power isn't getting to the unlock side of the switch plug on the door. This explains why maybe the switch doesn't work, but it doesn't explain why the locks "unlocked" normally when I used the key on the outside of the door prior to the rebuild.

Something else to note, when pressing the lock on the door, all actuators lock, and there is a brief electrical "whine" sound from under the dash. I checked behind the console flip-up storage panel, and found no aftermarket receiver installed. Is there a relay or something that could be causing a communication issue?

And I can't figure out how it knows to send a signal from the latch itself when using the key outside the door to automatically open all the locks.

I'm usually better at troubleshooting things, I feel totally lost on this.

My next step is to hop in and try to figure out how to get the door boot out and inspect the wiring there without cutting the boot up.
 

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I agree sometimes it happens. When its nice outside everything works well. But when the weather is cold that's the time things go wrong. Can you totally remove the Aftermarket Modue= Viper under the dash without cutting any wires? This could be the source of all of your problem. You are right, the master door lock switch will not unlock as you are getting 0 volts on the unlock harness. For the other doors to open you can only unlock the other doors via the key fob, or open the driver side door & flick the unlock switch to the unlock position to unlock all doors. Not to worry I am here to help. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, i am afraid to remove the Viper box as this is the 2nd installation of an aftermarket keyless system and the harness is a mess. Some wires are cut here and there, mainly the thicker ignition wires, making me think i should just leave it, if I remove the box it may not start, but i probably could remove the connection to the lock wires easily, as they are only 2 connectors.

I just stumbled upon this thread on another forum after hours and hours of reading through search engines..
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?59228-Wiring-diagram-for-Front-Driver-Door-(Lock)

This sounds very similar to my issue. I will try again in the morning and see what disconnecting the wires to the Viper box does. If nothing else I may try this fella's trick and run a new wire through the door if I can ever get it through there.. Almost dread that as tight as it is.

My overall plan was to get the locks functioning again, and install the Honda factory keyless box for this car and cross my fingers that it worked. Sure hope I can get to that. I don't want to dish out any more money on this issue.

I'll update in the morning.
 

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I just realized that the keyfob to open your doors is an Aftermarket Unit. Non OEM. This makes me think that there is really something wrong with the Viper unit. For the whine sound , ask someone to trigger the lock switch & listen carefully underneath you might be able to pinpoint it. It could be the Viper module making the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well, not disagreeing with you regarding the viper box, however I quickly ran out and grabbed a section of wire, and jumped the white/green (unlock) wire under the dash, with the white/green wire on the switch, and pressed unlock. All the doors unlocked like they should have.

I'm really not sure where the problem lies, but somehow, the switch needs to be getting power for any of them to cycle. So tomorrow I will be trying to fish a wire through the door without tearing something else up. I will just disconnect the viper door lock connections (2) and hope that it continues to function with the jumper wire.

I will update on the overall results tomorrow. Appreciate you helping!

I made an appointment for troubleshooting a few weeks from now with BestBuy, the installer of the Viper unit. What's going to be funny is when I discover there's nothing actually wrong with the unit at all other than I have no key fob programmed for it. I found the toggle switch under the dash set to "off" which explains the remote start dying, (may have kicked it), and the no unlocking may have started whenever this wire died on me. Glad it takes me about 2 years to fix something :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, sure enough, it's fixed.

I was able to cut the green/white (unlock) lead from the kick panel to the door switch, and fish a new wire through the door grommet with a stiff plastic fish rod. I routed the new 16 gauge wire up the existing harness and zip tied it all the way to the switch, where I spliced the old wire off and the new wire on.

Once it was all buttoned up, the switch now both locks and unlocks.

It's almost impossible to get any view of the wires inside of the door wire passage, it's sealed up pretty tight. All I can assume is that the wire that feeds power to the unlock side of the switch is frayed or cut inside of the door passage somehow.

Based on this I am going to assume that the aftermarket alarm was not at fault, and I reconnected it for troubleshooting of the alarm unit itself later. For now, I am happy to have the door lock control back. I haven't read about this issue anywhere else but the link provided above, so hopefully someone else experiencing some similar symptom will be able to find one of these 2 posts and figure it out.
 

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Thanks for posting on how you fixed it. Nice job troubleshooting. :D
Sometimes the wires (inside the wiring harness) that go from the body to the door get broken due to flexing and poor materials and design.
Nice job!!!
Buffalo4
 

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Congratulations on the fix! One of the hardest things to fix in a car is wiring issue. The info you gave will be invaluable to the next person. I agree with Buffalo4 in regards about the door & the flex conduit. Many times the Aftermarket stuff will cause problems. But there are some companies make good quality components & parts out there.
 
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