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I have a friend who has a 2002 CR-v that is giving us some CEL codes. She was having issues with her light (circumstantial, not part of the issue I'm looking at) and so we pulled some fuses to make sure that it wasn't caused by that first. (We did pull the ECU fuse. Not sure if that has any importance) After we verified all fuses are working, she started driving, and told me she was getting a 'jerking' with her car. I drove it and it seemed fine, unless you put the peddle to the metal, or over 4k RPM (I learned my friend has a lead foot and normally drives like this) The CEL also came on during this, but I didn't get the codes the first time. Once the car got to this point, it would feel like the engine dropped severely in power, and the car would slow dramatically. If you kept your foot on the peddle, it would chug. Pulling your foot completely off, and then accelerating normally would seem to resolve this issue.

I did some reading online, and some people claimed that resetting the ECU would fix this. We reset the ECU, and then drove it around a bit. I started off accelerating normally, and everything seemed fine. Then I tried to rev the engine a few times, and it still seemed fine. However, after a little while, the CEL kicked back on, and at the exact same moment it started having issues again. This time, however, it would start to lurch around 2800 RPM. The issue did seem to become more sporadic as the engine ran longer. I took it to Advanced Auto Parts, and they gave us the codes P1298 and P1259. I told her to take it to the dealer since she had a warranty on it. She took it in a couple of days later, and they told her that it was an electrical issue with her transmission and that electrical issues weren't covered by her warranty. She said that they couldn't get it to duplicate the issue, and that they pulled the same codes as we got earlier (P1298 and P1259) I told her to get a second opinion from another mechanic.

The other mechanic hooked up her car for a reading and pulled a P1298 and P0700 (the dealer did not pull a P0700) She's freaked out that it is a transmission issue, but other than this late-coming P0700 code, nothing else really seems to point to the transmission. Even the 'jerking' or 'lurching' (I'm not sure of the best term to use to describe it) doesn't feel transmission, but more like a sudden spasm in the fuel injection or something.

I'm wondering if anyone has good advice as to where to start on this car. I'm tempted to replace the ELD, and maybe the V-Tec oil pressure sensor, due to the original two codes, but the P0700 has thrown me off a bit. Can a bad ELD trip false codes, by chance? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Was anything done before this happened? It sounds like the dealer is trying to pull a fast one on your friend. If the engine is jerking or not running properly the operation of the tranny will also be affected. When was the last time it had a tune up? Let me know.
 

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My friend just bought the car less than a month ago from a used-car dealer. I will have to check and see if she has that information. I'll post back as soon as I can find out.
 

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The P1298 is an electrical load detector (ELD) fault. There is a TSB from 2005 about bad solder joints on those. Quick to replace.

The P1259 is the (common) VTEC solenoid fault (which "fits" with the stumbling on accel symptom).

Sounds as if she needs to buy a couple parts (unless the car had a warranty from that used dealer).

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Have you looked under the oil cap to see if everything looks clean? I'd be tempted to do a couple low interval oil changes with Mobil Clean 5000 or similar, THEN repair the faults.


Likewise, I'd be thinking about replacing the tranny fluid with Honda DW-1 fluid 3 times (10 quarts needed), to get everything fresh in there as well. Just a recommendation.




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Anytime you can obtain a code, put it into Google, E.G. " P1259 CR-V" and you will usually find out how to fix it.
 

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Sorry for the late response. My friend is telling me that her car isn't having the issues any more, even though the CEL is still on. I am still going to replace the ELD and I'll respond with the results of that.

As per the last tune up, she's not sure, but both the oil and the transmission fluid seem to be fine.
 

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So my friend took it to a mechanic's shop that specializes in the electronics aspect, because apparently the issue popped back up. They told her that the key and ECU had shorted out, and that they needed to replace the ECU and reprogram the key. Before they did this, they had already replaced the ELD. When they finished with the ECU, they said that it ALSO looks like the oil pressure sensor was bad and they need to replace it.

Here's my question, if the key had become shorted/ unprogrammed, wouldn't that have prevented the car from starting at all with the immobilizer system? What they are telling her doesn't seem to add up, from my understanding. To me it seems like they should have handled the ELD and oil pressure sensor first, to see if that fixed the problem. The car didn't seem to have any symptoms of a key issue. I'm fairly inexperienced with this end of things, so any insight would be amazing. Also, sorry if I may have left anything out. Ask more questions if I missed some necessary information.
 

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If the ECU (or, PCM in Honda-speak) had shorted, yes they would need to reprogram the keys when it got replaced. Not before.

I've not heard of a shorted or otherwise failed Honda ECU/PCM in several years of monitoring Forums, though.
 

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Sorry for the delayed response, it's been a busy couple of weeks. We've seemed to have gotten the problem solved, but I figured I would inform you as to everything done (in case someone else has a similar issue). Also, I still have a problem with what the mechanics did, so maybe we'll see if people agree or disagree with me.

When all was said and done, the ELD, oil pressure sensor, and ECU were replaced. The mechanics first replaced her ELD. After replacing her ELD, they told her that her key had been shorted out by us pulling the fuse, and that it also likely fried the ECU. So they sold her a replacement ECU as well. To make this clear, they said that BASED ON the fact that the key was not programmed anymore, they could tell that the ECU was bad and needed to be replaced. After they replaced the ECU, they said it was STILL having the same issues, and had to replace her oil pressure sensor as well. When she asked why the replaced the ECU at all (as she had told them about the error codes involving the oil pressure sensor and what the research I had done showed) they told her because it was a "process".

This is where I have issues. First, if what we did had shorted out her key, her car shouldn't have started anymore. From my understanding, the purpose for the chip in the key is to send a signal to the immobilizer that verifies it is an authorized key. If the immobilizer doesn't get the correct signal/code, it won't allow the fuel injection system to start, so the car won't run. So for them to claim that something we did caused the key to short out sounds suspicious, and to add to the fact that not until after they replaced the ELD did they bring this to her attention. Shouldn't this have been a readily noticeable thing that they should have caught well before replacing other parts? Then, on top of that, it didn't fix the issue at all, and they still had to replace one of the parts that I said they should have replaced in the beginning. It seems weird that they would jump to replacing a several hundred dollar part that is far less likely the issue first, before replacing a sub-one hundred dollar part that has a record of causing the exact problem she was having.

Well, that was my rant. Anyway, the fix seemed to be replacing the ELD and oil pressure sensor, and, very questionably, replacing the ECU.
 

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Glad you got the problem resolved, I agree that the troubleshooting by the garage wasn't the most logical. Hopefully it didn't cost too much.
 

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hi I have similar issues with my 03 crv 1259 and 1298 code
flushed engine changed oil and filter replaced eld was a little better but both codes came back-I cleared but both come back together so my question if it is vtec solenoid problem why does it set eld code also?
thanx for your time
smax
 
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