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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
SOLVED ON LAST PAGE 2004 honda crv...

Hey guys, I need your help pretty bad. So I went to change my valve cover gasket as it was leaking, it went well and put it back together. Car ran fine with a short trip to the gym. On the way back, it starts idle surging from 1k to 2k rpms. I make it home and start checking everything over. Refitting the air cleaner and checked all the vacuum hoses I could see, still surging. Checked the cruise cables, triple checked the air box filter and hose that runs to the valve cover. Everything is secure with no obvious issues.

Drive the car to work and on my way home, it gets worse. Throws a CEL and started dying when applying the brakes. I got it home okay but it was going through stages of surging from mild to severe. I was racking my brain all day and remembered when I took the valve cover off, 3 out of the 4 spark plug tube seals ripped. I figured I would take care of that this weekend but thought maybe air was escaping? Picked up 4 from Honda on the way home and replaced them, hoping it would solve my issue. Left the battery disconnected for a minute and started her up. No dice, original surge from 1k to 2k when in park or neutral. I must be missing something as it ran fine before the valve cover gasket change. Any suggestions???? Ill take a photo of my engine bay, see if anything looks out of place.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here are some pics. I can't find anything out of the ordinary. I'm sure it'll throw a CEL and I'll probably head to the auto parts store to see if it can point me in the right direction.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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You are getting the classic symptoms of a vacuum leak.


Sometimes the errant hoses end up tucked out of sight...

I'm sure that the CEL code will point you in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's what I'm thinking. It already came back so I'll get it pulled and see if that helps tracking it down. I'm sure it's a loose hose tucked under something.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone with any tips? I've combed the engine bay for hours, taken apart the airbox, nothing. I seriously cannot figure out what could be leaking. Leave next week but when I get back ill have to break down and take it to a mechanic which I really dont want to do. I know I put the tube seals and valve cover gasket on right, doesn't seem to be leaking any more oil.
 

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If those are the codes you are getting, look for a subtle, hard-to-see crack in the rubber hoses to the intake. Its possible they are not as flexible as new, and you cracked one? Also look UNDER/BEHIND the throttle body for errant hoses or electrical connections.

What is the little hole just before the TB on the 1st and 4th pictures? (My '06 is DBW so its different that yours.)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did find a small crack in the line that goes from the air box to the valve cover. I put rtv on both sides with duct tape. The car still bucks at part throttle, shows a CEL, and idle hunts. But it's not as severe and it won't die on me like it did before. I'm going to see if I can get that part from Honda and I was thinking of taking the valve cover off and pressing the spark plug tube seals all the way in. Maybe I didn't press them in all the way.

I noticed the hole you speak of, it looks to go nowhere. I'll hold my finger over it when the car is running to double check.
 

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FYI since these don't have a Mass Air Flow Sensor, any rubber hoses attached to air box/tube have no effect on intake air flow. The big hose is a vent for the crank case, nothing more, will run fine without that hose even attached (but will suck up crap into the engine crankcase). The other hose only matters at cold start when coolant is below 150F.

Now for what to check:

Look to the left of your air box, there is a hose that goes from the intake box/tube to a unit that's attached to the housing that the upper radiator hose goes into. Then another hose off that which runs under the plastic "i-vtec" labeled cover back to about the middle of the intake.

That is likely where your problem is. Chances are that the switch is cracked (one that attaches to the housing the upper radiator hose goes into). VERY VERY easy to do when replacing the valve cover gasket. Mine was damaged (and taped off) when I bought my V. I have since removed the hoses and plugged them, putting a cap on the port at the intake. Cold start idle is a little higher but not more screwing with that sensor. Need to get off my butt and get a plug to put in the coolant housing so I can delete the entire set up.

Best way to chase vacuum leaks, grab a can of brake parts cleaner, start engine and start spraying all around intake and vacuum hoses. You'll hear the engine buck and stumble when the brake cleaner hits the leak and gets sucked in. Only place intake should be getting air is from the airbox.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for that advice. I'm going to get on that right now. I was thinking how I didn't think those hoses would affect idle so you confirmed that. Will report back
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I sprayed a lot of areas with vacuum lines, around the valve cover, the spots you mentioned, around the throttle body. Nothing, no change in wacky idle. It'll rev up to 2k then settle around 1300 to 1400, just erratically idling. Sprayed around switches, air box, this is frustrating!
 

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Did you check the temperature switch between the small hose coming off the airbox and hose going back to the intake?

It's also simply possible your IAC just went bad right after you did the change. Hit up a junk yard and see if you can find one to try without buying a new one. It's just 2 screws and a plug.

Sometimes these weird coincidences happen.

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Discussion Starter #13
I did a visual check, the switch appears to be fine. It could be that it went bad. Unfortunately I'm biting the bullet and taking it to a shop this morning. I need the car for my 2nd job and its getting horrible mpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Shop hooked it up to a smoke machine to test for leaks. He had to leave early but he can hear a vacuum leak but wants to spend more time with it when I come back. I thought I could hear a leak too. Couldn't find it after a quick test but thinks he can with more time. I'll update this thread next Saturday unless anyone else has any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I was able to take it back to the mechanic who said he ran a test and it came back as the IAC valve was bad. I haven't done a ton of research but should I replace the whole thing? Looks like it's about $65 to $100 varying online.
 

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You have to change the entire IAC. Not something that can be just repaired and put back in.

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