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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I am doing the valve adjustments on 04 crv. I have the service manual to help. I am familiar with the directions of how to move and line up timing marks. I have a few a questions.
1. When aligning all marks and arrows as stated in manual. I notice that the arrow on vtec gear doesn't fall exactly at the 12 o clock. So to turn the crank pulley the 90°s would not then end at the 3 o clock. Do I need to use a degree wheel to make exactly 90° turn to set up next cylinder tdc? Or do I not need to be that precise?
2. Can I put a dowel in cylinder and use this concept with align marks in service manual?
When I set up cylinder 1 tdc the main arrow is closer to the 1 o clock position. While the the hash marks on bothe gears meet and line up following manual instruction. Am I over thinking this ?? Thank you
 

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With the valve cover off, look at the cam lobe(s), for the cylinder you are checking/adjusting, and their relationship to the rocker/lifter. The base of the cam lobe(s) should be at the rocker/lifter (no pressure on the valve).

On mechanical valve trains, I always adjust to the max number of the range. Tappy valves are happy valves......within spec of course. Never rotate the engine backwards.
 

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On mechanical valve trains, I always adjust to the max number of the range. Tapping valves are happy valves......within spec of course. Never rotate the engine backwards.
Exhaust valves get tighter and intake valves get looser.
Many say to use the max on exhaust and the middle or lowest on the intakes.
Reason: exhaust valves get tighter as the valve recedes into the valve seat.
Intakes get looser because of slight wear on lobe and lifter.
But overall, the big one seems to be to set the exhaust valves to the largest gap in the recommended range.

Buffalo4
 

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Just so that we don't ASSUME anything, you are turning the crank in the normal run direction, and not trying to 'back it up', right?

Regards (2.) , cam position is the most important thing (not crank), so if you have the upper pulleys aligned according to the manual you may adjust them. crv383 has good advice, I will start measuring when the marks are aligned and I can feel the rocker arms 'rock' (meaning the valves are closed and not contacting the cams, as he said, no pressure on the rocker arms).

There is invariably some 'slop' in a chained drivetrain, which is why you should 'measure each cylinder again' after your adjustments are complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes you are correct. I am only turning in clockwise position, using power steering pump pulley. I have never turned ccwise. So not to have timing chain pop or skip tooth. So when at tdc the rockers will move slightly "rock back and forth. This is when adjustments can be made. I appreciate all the insight and advice. Its been quite cold with rain and snow here in wny. I plan on getting back to it when it warms up a bit. I found this and planned on using it to help align everything on each cylinder.
DIY Adjusting Valves 2nd Gen Cr-v (2002-2004) (maybe 06).
Along with everyones insight here. I guess there is some wiggle room in this procedure. Thank You, BB
 

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Dont use crank timing mark, use cam shaft marks. Crank pulley may have been removed at some point and no longer lines up because it is not keyed. Since your new to this, using a dowel to make sure cylinders are at TDC is a good idea to give you a reference. Then look at cam lobes as they should be even distance away from the rocker (dont have to measure, look even is enough) and rockers as you said, can move a little by hand. Use gauge and adjust. Rotate engine for each cylinder accordingly.

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I am only turning in clockwise position, using power steering pump pulley.
I thought the best method was to use the crankshaft bolt? That keeps best tension on the chain.

@Tigris99 , I didn't know the crank pulley wasn't keyed! 😲
 

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Exhaust valves get tighter and intake valves get looser.
Many say to use the max on exhaust and the middle or lowest on the intakes.
Reason: exhaust valves get tighter as the valve recedes into the valve seat.
Intakes get looser because of slight wear on lobe and lifter.
But overall, the big one seems to be to set the exhaust valves to the largest gap in the recommended range.

Buffalo4
Every shop manual I've seen, regarding mechanical valve trains, lists both an intake valve range and an exhaust valve range, regarding proper adjustment. I presumed the OP knew there were different ranges between intake and exhaust valves.......I did say "within spec".
 

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Every shop manual I've seen, regarding mechanical valve trains, lists both an intake valve range and an exhaust valve range, regarding proper adjustment. I presumed the OP knew there were different ranges between intake and exhaust valves.......I did say "within spec".
Yes you did and my suggestions didn't vary from that.
I was trying to point out that the many prefer to set the exhaust valve lash at the biggest gap within specifications and to see the intake valve at the middle or smallest gap specified for the reasons I said.
Buffalo4
 

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DO NOT USE THE POWER STEERING PULLEY. You can snap that shaft. You can use the camshaft as long as you turn the correct direction and dont have the spark plugs in.
I thought the best method was to use the crankshaft bolt? That keeps best tension on the chain.

@Tigris99 , I didn't know the crank pulley wasn't keyed!
I dont know about Gen3 or newer. But k24 engines for gen 2, similar year accords and elemenst, none are keyed. Techs get pissed too because this causes issues with the sensor ring for the crank sensor when you take it apart. The little tab in it that fits the crank key slot snaps. Learned this the hard way the first time. I keyed mine so I dont have to worry about it anymore as the slot is there on the pulley and crank.

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