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Hello out there in CR-V land and Happy New Year, 2019!!
As a "new" owner of an '05 with 287k on her, l quite like the vehicle....da hunny bunny had an '05 several years ago that impressed me quite much, so much so here l be with one.......had to put a fair bit work into her due to previous owners not doing as required--lower ball joints, cabin airfilters, full tune-up/all fluids flushed and filled, get all the windows operating, repair some exhaust leaks, tires, brakes, etc.......
Anywho, when it came time to replace the thermostat(long warm-up time/fuel mileage/low operational temperature), l did some Internet researching re purging/bleeding the cooling system: no, good ole fashioned Honda air bleed screw--damn! l read about the air evacuation procedure("AirLift" is the system l remember using back in my wrenching days) and many articles of just running/cap off/ add some more/run some more, etc., and wish to convey how l did the bleeding:

l would expect that those who wish to do this level of repair have comptetentcy and basic knowledge of Automotive operations/system/tool usage, etc.....if you Think you can is alot different than Knowing you can....seen and have had to re-"repair" others' attempts at playing "Mechanic"..kinda like what l had to re-do with my insult intended and "When in Doubt...Ask or get someone who is qualified/experienced.....

1) l like to catch all the drained coolant for possible re-use if it's specific gravity is good AND as a reference as to the amount that one has to put back in......
2) ln the attached pictures you'll see a yellow funnel that is part of a bleeding kit that contains various rad cap fittings/adapters to fit the varied diameters of rad fill necks...available from a good automotive job shop/supplier.
3) After reassembling(what l had to do--the thermostat change which is kinda tight and the t-stat housings are plastic-the shouldered bolts rust and may break the plastic!) the yellow funnel is afixed to the rad neck and filled(Picture: CRV purge).
4) Put the cabin heat control to Cold
5) The heat control valve/heater core hose(at the firewall of the engine bay) is disconnected at the L side of the valve(the other hose is continuous to the engine)...again, your are dealing with plastic bodied structures that are aged and can be carefull and patient..release the spring hose clamp, slide away from the control valve body, and gently break the hose/spigot friction(a small flat blade and wedge several times around the hose/spigot contact area). At this point the coolant will start filling the engine block and air will be coming out of the heater control valve and the disconnected heater core hose....da green messiness CRV purge2)
6) At some point coolant will constantly discharge from the heater hose and kinda sputter/dribble from the heater control valve: re-assemble the hose to the valve even as the coolant is dribbling/coming have to keep an eye on the yellow funnel to keep it supplying the coolant to fill the engine block...
7) Go put the heat control to HOT
8) The next air purge/release is at the coolant heating metal u-pipe for the crankcase ventilation to the airfilter box...You can release either side of that pipe/hoses junction....l used the rearward one. With the yellow funnel supplying coolant to the system, air will be coming out of the U-pipe and disconnected hose but eventually coolant out of both.....when there is coolant coming out of both, re-connect those two...again, a spring hose clamp but be carefull as the plastic spigot at the airbox/crankcase rubber hose is kinda weak/may crack, break...(Pictures: CRVpurge1 and Crvpurge3)
9) l like to slightly over-fill the coolant resevoir or atleast make sure it has the proper level of coolant in it... this is so there is ample supply of coolant for when the system cools down and actually pulls in coolant.....
10) With the yellow funnel having coolant in it, start the car, cabin fan to High, heat at Hot, and let 'er warm-up.....keep an eye on the coolant level in the yellow funnel.....Let the car get to operational temperature(the temp gauge indicator needle should be at just below the Thermometer/"water lines"....You may have to increase engine rpm to about 2000/2500 in order to get the rad fan to operate: This indicates that the thermostat is opening/going to open and circulate the coolant through the whole system...
11) With the cycling of the rad fan(it came on and then off) the coolant will be hot so be mindful and remove the yellow funnel/rad adapter and the rad should be full.....full to the neck of the opening....replace the rad cap and all should be good....
12) Upon this being completed, you should check the rad coolant level and resevoir AFTER the engine has cooled-off, ie like the next day...this is because upon cooling, the system will actually pull-in coolant out the resevoir and "fill" the rad......If the resevoir is empty then check the rad's should be at the opening.....adjust as needed...maybe there's a leak?! More fun!!!

Anywho, hope this is of value

CRV purge.jpg
CRV purge1.jpg
CRV purge2.jpg
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