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Discussion Starter #1
Problem occurs hot or cold. 82000 miles. If I try to start the car normally, without touching the gas pedal, it cranks, but won't start. I can only get then get it to start if I remove and dry out the very wet spark plugs and keep gas pedal to floor when cranking. So it's getting gas (maybe too much?). If I start out with the gas pedal to the floor it starts and runs just fine from then on, until the next time I need to start the car. Put new NGK spark plugs, no change. Ignition coils look clean, tried swapping between cylinders, no change. Used OTC6589 HEI Spark Tester, good spark from on all 4 coils. Occasionally get P0300, or 301 or 302 or 303 or 304 DTC misfire code during the extended cranking. P0304 seems most often. But I suspect these codes are a byproduct of the crank/no start, not a cause. Many times, no codes. Checked the fuel injector resistance, 9.8, 9.8, 9.8 and 10.0. It just seems like there is too much fuel at startup. I checked the plugs one time BEFORE trying to start, just to see if the injectors leaked fuel after shutting the car off. They were dry. To review, the engine starts with the gas pedal to the floor and runs just fine once it starts. Any thoughts?
 

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Sounds like there may be a timing issue or possibly need the valves adjusted. When you press the accelerator all the way to the floor, that puts it into "clear flood" mode. Does it run OK otherwise? This is something that is kind of hard to trouble shoot without being with the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BDub, It runs perfect except for startup. I'm open to all ideas. Why would a valve mal-adjust or timing only affect startup? How do adjust timing? Very frustrating problem. I travel with all the tools I need now, in case it floods and I need to clean the plugs and I'm away from home.
 

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With them using variable valve timing I'm leaning towards something else. Unless for some reason the timing chain jumped a tooth. But I know that having valves out of adjustment will make an engine hard to start. If your valve adjustment hasn't been checked by now it's probably time anyway. I would start there and move on to something else if that doesn't solve the problem.
 

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Possible that the cylinder head temp sensor is sending the wrong signal to the ECU. These can usually be checked via continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Carbuff2, are you referring to the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)? I can't find any reference to "cylinder head temp" sensor. I'll try testing the ECT. Is this the sensor that feeds the temp gauge, because the temp gauge appears to be operating normally? Thanks for your suggestion.
 

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Sounds like to me you have a leaking fuel injector that is not closing when you shut the car off...the fuel lines has pressure after you shut the car off...a leaking injector could be dumping fuel into the cylinders.

But I would think your drive performance and fuel economy would suffer as well...

https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-symptoms/

https://www.injectorrx.com/leaking-fuel-injectors/

https://community.cartalk.com/t/flooded-fuel-injected-engine/45985

Also, your engine is not a DI type...so, the fuel from the injector would not be spray directly into the cylinders where your spark plug is located...it would spray onto the intake valve in the head. So, pulling plugs after you shut off the engine may not show you that you have a leaking injector.
 

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Carbuff2, are you referring to the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)? I can't find any reference to "cylinder head temp" sensor. I'll try testing the ECT. Is this the sensor that feeds the temp gauge, because the temp gauge appears to be operating normally? Thanks for your suggestion.
That was an off the cuff comment (nomenclature surely a result of the bad one I encountered on a Toyota years ago). BLUSH

Very often, whatever sensor feeds the dash gauge, and the one that the ECU reads to control running parameters, are different. I did not have time to look up the details.
 

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Is the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) valve operate properly?
That failure would give you a P1077 code wouldn't it?


While a common repair (replace the solenoid in the upper left of the diagram first, THEN the actual IMRC) I'm not sure if that is a documented reason for poor starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. I have "solved" my problem by punting. I decided to replace my 11 year year old vehicle. I got a nice value for a trade-in. It will probably go to auction and be solved by someone else. I sure would like to know the result though. Thanks again.
 
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