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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2013 EXL and pulled the trigger on a 10.1 Android radio from China. The factory unit has XM which I stopped using and its the non-nav non-touch screen model. It's pretty ugly. After reading about some other members projects, I decided to go for it. The unit ended up costing only $57. I will explain later...

Overall, I am very happy with the outcome. It's a clean install and it came with the vent surrounds to make it fit nicely. The unit itself is a 32GB Android tablet with a 45 watt amp. It comes with all the wiring harnesses to make it virtually plug and play (more on this below). This is the unit:

The price I paid was originally $225 but the seller said the unit I purchased would not work in my car, so he gave me this unit for half of my intended $225. So the price became $113. Then there was an issue with the wiring harness. They did not take in to account that my car has a factory amp and sub. They told me to take it to a shop and have them wire it for me, and then gave me another 50% refund. So now the cost was $57. I managed to figure out the harness issue and wired the amp trigger myself. Note that if your car does not have a sub, you will not have this issue. It would be literally plug & play.

I also bought a dashcam and connected it to the radio which supports this. You can see in the split screen shot I have Waze on the left and the dashcam on the right.
Everything works great. I have an aftermarket amp and sub and it has an output for this as well and does a great job on the 80Hz filter. I did not touch the factory speakers. In fact, they sound much better now with this unit. It has a great EQ and cleans up the sound nicely.

What does not work:
  • Phone buttons on the steering wheel. I have not figured out how to make them work.
  • Reverse cam on the new unit is not connected. I have a replacement backup camera as my factory unit is crap. I just haven't had time to connect it. It does still show in the iMID.
What does work that I did not expect would work:
  • The iMID!! Everything on it still works, as does the steering wheel controls. It does not show source info such as radio but it does show volume, custom pics, backup cam, etc.
  • Clock! It displays the time that I set on the Android unit.
  • Changing the volume still displays on the iMID
  • All other steering wheel controls work such as source, volume and forward/back (left/right).
Other cool features with the unit - it's Android and has Google Playstore so once you are logged in, it will allow you to install whatever you want. I have almost all my apps from my phone on this, including some streaming apps such as Prime Video. I also have a thumb drive connected full of movies and tunes. It supports more cameras but I only need a front dashcam. It also supports a backup cam which I will install at a later date.

Overall, I am very happy and would recommend this to anyone looking for a great upgrade to your clunky factory unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for sharing this. I read many complains that these andriod head units are very slow. How is yours now?
I don't have any issues with slowness on mine. But i was very careful not to get the entry models with low memory. Stay away from 1 - 16GB memory models. Grt 2- 32 gb or 4 - 64 gb models. Mine is a 2 -32.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great post. I have a 2012 Exl and bought almost identical 10.1 head unit from ebay. Everything works except there is no sounds at all and I suspect it is similar to the issue that you solved. Could you go into more detail about how solved the harness issue?
Its actually quite simple. If you have the 7 speaker system like mine, it is powered by a factory amp. The harness that came with the android hu doesn't trigger the amp to turn on. I found the wiring diagram for the factory hu and ran a wire from the android harness to the factory amp wire and i got sound. I will see if i can find my pics and wiring info and post it here this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Honda Radio Wiring Diagram

See page 10 of 17 - this is for my radio (6 speaker + sub no nav). Pin 21 (red) on the factory harness has is the amp trigger on/off signal.

Then find the amp wire from your Android radio harness. My radio came with a wiring diagram in the manual. On mine, it is Pin 17 (blue/white). Take a spare piece of wire and simply join these 2 wires together and you should get your sound. That was all I had to do.

They ended up giving me money back on my purchase as they didn't have a pinout on the harness for the Blue/White Pin 17 wire, so the it would not turn on the factory amp using the harness, hence this bypass was needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great post. I have a 2012 Exl and bought almost identical 10.1 head unit from ebay. Everything works except there is no sounds at all and I suspect it is similar to the issue that you solved. Could you go into more detail about how solved the harness issue?
Did you get yours working?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Question 1.
When you cut pin 21 you were connecting the wire from the car side and not the 24 pin box correct?
Yes, I connected to the car side behind the factory radio plug. I didn't actually cut 21, I spliced into it by slightly pulling a small part of the wire shielding away and joining a short piece of wire to it. Your pics look correct so I'm not sure why it did not work for you. See more in #3 below.

Question 2
Is AMP-CONT not the correct wire? In the directions this seemed like the most logical one. I emailed the guy on ebay and his chinese to english translated message wasnt clear but I believe he was saying the blue wire was the correct one
It sounds just like mine so I believe it is. Mine is blue with a white strip and is labeled Amp-Cont on PIN 17 like yours. Connect this to the wire you spliced into above.

Question 3
After you connected your did the sound come right on or did you need to change any Android settings in the HU?
It came right on, as long as you have a sound source running such as the radio app, the music app, the video app, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Great post FinishLine. Also got the same unit now and need your help, if possible. Can I assume your stock HU is the one show on p.9 (with amplifier) in the document you posted? I received a cable harness that had 4 of the 5 connectors matched with no issue. The only one could not fit at all is the second one from left (connector E 8-pin). Do you recall the same problem? Four of these 8-pin were used (4 bottom ones) for subwoofer and subwoofer only. The other four (top four) were not used. Is the Android HU you have has a subwoofer output? Thanks in advance.
Right, my factory HU is on page 9. The Android HU does not control the factory subwoofer. It also does not have an option for XM satellite radio or the factory steering wheel phone buttons.
Yes, my Android HU has RCA output for an aftermarket subwoofer. I already had this in my car wired to the factory HU. I simply connected it now to the Android HU. It sounds much better now, as does the factory speakers.
In my opinion, the factory subwoofer under the front passenger seat is useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Cjg342 & FinishLine,

Got the same unit (I hope, picture of the back attached). I could not even got all cable connected with good confidence .... FinishLine and Cjg342, could you please help and confirm this is what your back looks like? View attachment 138437

Am I right to connect the 20-pin (A) and 8-pin (B) of cable harness to A and B above? And is the 16-pin connector not used? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 138438
Now, reading both of your posts, @FinishLine, when you said "connect cable Pin 21 (red) on the factory harness to the Pin 17 (blue/white) of the Android", you simply connected them with a splicer, for example, https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/...kwcid=AL!3645!3!340454613742!!!g!543540717259!

but not to "cut" the whole line? Could this be the reason why Cjg342 got no sound? Please advise.
I don't think cutting or splicing makes a difference since it's not wired in the Android harness. For me, it's a personal preference. I don't like to cut the factory wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I forgot to mention...
If there's nothing in the wiring harness on the new Android radio plug for pin 17, then you do need to add a jumper wire from this (17 in the Android harness) to the factory amp trigger wire (21 on the factory wire) as shown in the second pic. Then make sure the wire is connected all the way through the various Android wiring harnesses.

If you guys think it will help, I can pull my head unit out this weekend and take some more pics of my wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Looking for the rear camera signal cable to the iMID screen in the picture below (the small one above the Android screen) for a Gen 4/2014 CRV. Pretty sure I can split the signal and get the Android to display it. Have not been able to find anything here in the forum. Thanks! View attachment 138767 View attachment 138767
There was another post saying it was pins 18 & 19 on the back of the imid. I tried it and no luck on my EXL. The wiring diagram did not match my car either. If anyone has a pinout doc for the imid, please share.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Mine came with a canbus adapter and it was plug and play. It just worked. There is an app on mine called SWC for steering wheel controls. It has settings for the buttons although I've never used it. You can try to reset to defaults. Otherwise it may be an issue with the wiring. On the Android side, it should have a brown and brown/black wire. Make sure those are connected all through the harness back to the CRV wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
I have an option in my radios date and time settings to set the time from the network, which can be wifi or the gps. It automatically syncs the time when it get connected/signal.
It also has an option to set it manually. Once set, it shows on the imid via the canbus connection.
 
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