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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's 1997 CR-V with over 250,000 miles on the clock is suffering from an occassional and sudden, loss of power. The symptom is difficult to describe but it feels like the throttle is failing to respond to input and the car begins to slow. It's kind of like a misfire but without the lumpiness. And it's not an abrupt loss of power that you would get with a fuel cut or complete ignition failure. She normally just pushed the accelerator more and more and eventually, it picks up again, maybe in response to the pedal or maybe just because the issue just went away. The period of the issue is usually around 10, maybe 15 seconds. Sometimes you can drive 20 miles from cold and it doesn't happen. Other times it can happen 3 times in as many minutes just on flat level cruising at no particular speed. No codes from the engine management.

I gave up trying to diagnose it and took it to a local mechanic friend who spent quite some time trying to figure it out. He ran engine cleaner through a couple of times and after several test drives was convinced the issue was fixed. I drove it home 20 miles and was happy this was the case. My wife drove a 30 mile trip without issue but then today, it came back again.

Any suggestions on what might be going on here?
 

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Have you ever had the fuel filter (mounted on the passenger side of the firewall) changed?
Could be a failing fuel pump or main relay.
Is the timing belt within limits in age or mileage?
Have the 'codes' checked. I would think your mechanic would have checked. Have you actually had the codes read? I mean checked, not just looking at the check engine light?
Could be a combo of things, including a weak ignition coil, valve lash adjustment, worn timing belt, catalytic converter, etc.

My best two guesses would be fuel filter and timing belt.

I would also suspect ignition problems, including dist cap, rotor, ignition coil and igniter.
Here is a very good link to diagnose ignition problems:
Buffalo4
PS: If you have never replaced the PCV valve, it would be worthwhile to do so.
Same with O2 sensors.
 

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Along with what Buffalo4 has mentioned, I was also thinking a flaky throttle position sensor. But with a vehicle of that age and milage you really have to go thru and check everything
 

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Along with what Buffalo4 has mentioned, I was also thinking a flaky throttle position sensor. But with a vehicle of that age and milage you really have to go thru and check everything
That suggestion makes a lot more sense than mine.
Good job,
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info.

Like I said. codes have been read - there are none.

I recently replaced distributor components including coil and ICM and I have to wonder if they might be at the root of this?

I'll take a look at the TPS.
 

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You said that their were no codes through the engine management system and that could mean that the check engine light wasn't on, Didn't know for sure if you actually had the codes read or not, and that is why I mentioned it.

Has the fuel filter ever been changed?
Sometimes a Main Relay causes the fuel pump to shut off after the relay gets hotter.
That TPS is definitely at the top of the list.
Buffalo4
PS: What about your timing belt? If it is off a tooth or so, you can experience almost a no throttle response, but usually that is while first accelerating from a standstill and not while driving at speed or higher rpm.
 

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Thanks for the info.

Like I said. codes have been read - there are none.

I recently replaced distributor components including coil and ICM and I have to wonder if they might be at the root of this?

I'll take a look at the TPS.
What was the reason you replaced the coil and igniter (ICM)? Were they OEM replacements?
Curious.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Car
What was the reason you replaced the coil and igniter (ICM)? Were they OEM replacements?
Curious.
Buffalo4
Car died at the side of the road and I diagnosed no spark. I ordered both coil and ICM but just changed the ICM, which fixed the issue. About 3 months later, the coil went and I still had the part so I changed it. I used RockAuto for parts and I don't recall specifying OEM or even selecting Denso or the like. I have wondered if that could be an issue here but as the issue is intermittant I may have discounted it.
 

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Car

Car died at the side of the road and I diagnosed no spark. I ordered both coil and ICM but just changed the ICM, which fixed the issue. About 3 months later, the coil went and I still had the part so I changed it. I used RockAuto for parts and I don't recall specifying OEM or even selecting Denso or the like. I have wondered if that could be an issue here but as the issue is intermittant I may have discounted it.
OK, thanks on that. Thanks.
If, you turned the engine over with the starter after putting in the new ignition coil without the dist cap on or with any spark plug wire not attached to a inserted spark plug or not having it grounded, it 'can' short out even a new ignition coil.
I don't think that is your problem, but I thought I would mention it.
Did you check out the link I posted in reply #2?
It 'might' help, but I really don't know if your problem is ignition related or not.
Once again, have you ever had the fuel filter replaced?
Thanks,
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, thanks on that. Thanks.
If, you turned the engine over with the starter after putting in the new ignition coil without the dist cap on or with any spark plug wire not attached to a inserted spark plug or not having it grounded, it 'can' short out even a new ignition coil.
I don't think that is your problem, but I thought I would mention it.
Did you check out the link I posted in reply #2?
It 'might' help, but I really don't know if your problem is ignition related or not.
Once again, have you ever had the fuel filter replaced?
Thanks,
Buffalo4
I haven't had chance to check out the link but did watch a number of similar videos for checking out the ignition when I had the previous issue. Does your link offer a more comprehensive assessment? I'll take a look.

On the fuel filter - I don't recall the last change and not to dismiss this as a possible cause, the symptoms don't feel like fuel starvation and recovery from fuel stavation when power returns. It's just not that abrupt. I've chased fuelling issues on many other vehicles and never has the fuel filter been at fault. If the symptoms occurred under high fuel demand and/or were less intermittant then I'd be more likely inclined to chase this as a possibility.

I do have another theory too and perhaps you could comment...

This car has always been very under-powered and even running the AC produces a noticeable drain on power. My wife tells me that she has (since new) often disengaged the AC when going up hills. Whether related or not, I noticed the the PAS pump is leaking and had to fill the tank yesterday. Might a failing PAS pump add enough drag to the system to produce the symptoms I 'm experiencing? The other evidence I have that this might be contributing is that when she came home a few days ago I thought I caught the scent of hot rubber. I replaced all the belts around 18 months ago after a seized alternator literally burned through that belt. I don't see anything on the PAS belt to indicate this added resistence but belts are pretty good at hiding such wear.

As I'm going to have to change the pump anyway, I guess I can eliminate this without fear of wasting money on parts that won't fix the original issue.
 

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Hi. I have quite literally just joined the Forum, but was drawn to your post because it was a familiar problem. My daughter had an ageing 2.0 VTec that started to exhibit the same symptoms. As the mechanic had given up on it, I decided to have a go. I didn't want to throw much money at it, so I drained the oil, used a quality engine flushing oil, emptied the system, then removed and thoroughly cleaned the VTec solenoid and filter. As soon as the filter came off I felt confident that that was the problem, and so it was. They have a short service interval for a good reason.
It may be the wrong path, but it isn't costly. That said, I'm surprised there were no codes
 

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Likewise, i have just joined too and this is all sounding familiar, odd very slight loss of power almost 'chugging' I took car for a service and mentioned to the garage.... after service he said both air and oil filter were clogged, he added cleaner to the fuel (diesel) but said that my turbo pipe was/is damaged for excess oil that split due to somone not putting the oil cap back on after filling (no me btw) he said the pipe was 'shirking in width' - im slightly confused by this as I've looked at that particular part and it look like its metal...? think I'm going to get a second opinion.. my honda cr-v is a 2007. Diesel.
 
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