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Discussion Starter #1
4WD automatic. Shuts down and dies on the highway. Sometimes starts back up- sometimes does not. Honda Parts Counter man, Tony, said this is NOT a "main relay" aka Fuel relay issue- that the relay just needs to work one time, to start the vehicle. On his advice we replaced the Ignition Switch (not the key cylinder, rather a part deeper under the steering wheel, attached to the back of the keyed cylinder. ) The screws on the old one were LOOSE! so we were pretty sure we were onto the answer. Also had seen that it was a common problem. But no, a few drives later the car again stalled driving 60mph. We are thinking of replacing the fuel pump, looks pretty easy but will have to get an aftermarket one, if anyone has suggestions. 17040-S10-C10 is the replacement number I got from an online Honda House, but can't spend $300 like they want! My concern is 1) is there any reason to think the pump is our problem? 2) Fuel pumps I have found online seem to be missing some components, and I'm not clever enough to know whether it's a part I will have to buy separately, or rob off my own fuel pump. Thanks if you can talk me thru this. PS "next time" it shuts down we hope to turn the bolt on the fuel line under the hood- to discover "whether" it has pressure there- or not.
 

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1st of all welcome to the forum. Tony the parts guy is right. The Main relay does what he says. Recommending replacing the Ignition switch is a good move as the 1st gen V's have this problem. You most likely have an Igniter Problem. When the engine stalls check to see if there is Spark. Check also the color of the spark. Don't replace the fuel pump as these vehicles the fuel pump are robust. They don't easily die. Was anything done on the vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We replaced the ignition switch as Tony advised. This igniter you mentioned,
30130-P75-006 , it seemed to be part of a distributor cap? $228 is pricey for chasing my tail, I will check other sources (that number and price was again an online Honda parts house). Thanks! PS you asked, "Was anything done on the vehicle?" YES- we recently replaced the radiator because it was leaking...
 

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I'm researching the igniter you mentioned. Maybe it's also called ignition control module? Auto zone said to "click on the technical bulletin to learn how to test it", which I didn't find on AZ but am finding elsewhere. But in reading about it (the ICM, that is, if it truly is another term for the Igniter) the text sounded much like the Main Relay/ Fuel Relay function, that it would only apply when trying to START the vehicle? It did NOT say that specifically, but my question is, would a bad igniter allow the car to die while hurling down the highway, by stopping spark? Thanks!
 

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I can't believe that was the price so I did an online price check. You're right about the price. Years ago it wasn't this much. Maybe they don't manufacture these anymore. Its better to source it from somewhere. Be sure you don't get off brand. As far as I know these are made by NEC. I've seen many Aftermarket distributor that the Igniter dies. Because of this you'll get a no start or engine dies while driving. When taking out the Rotor be sure you take out the set screw 1st. When rotating the Ignition rotor by the engine be sure you put back the Ignition cap or if you rotate the engine without the cap use the crank bolt. As if you do rotate the engine using the starter without the ignition cap this could destroy the Igniter. Replacing the radiator should not affect the Ignition system. I have a collection of these Igniter. I've replaced many of them. Also check the Ignition rotor if it's still good. Do you feel any hesitation while driving?
 

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yes, if the ICM or Igniter goes bad or it stops sending spark while cruising on the highway. The engine will stall. If the Main relay is bad the symptom will be when the interior of the cabin is hot, you'll get a hard start or No start at all. But once the engine starts, the engine will continue to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi you’ve been very helpful, I can’t fig out How to post on the message board again, but here’s the dilemma: we bought a new NEC ICM. Installed it last night and, Car won’t start now. Cranks but no start. The old ICM is MC – 8541, the new no start one is MC 8132. Don’t know if that’s the trouble but the dilemma I mentioned is the side post on the ICM. There was no wire to the side post when we opened distributor last night. And the research videos I watched last night after getting home frustrated showed a connector on the side post (the video was 1997CRV). I expected we would open it up today and find a wire we had not seen in the dark last night. But there is no wire for that side post… Do you think I just have the wrong ICM? And. My model does not need a side wire?
 

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Hi you’ve been very helpful, I can’t fig out How to post on the message board again, but here’s the dilemma: we bought a new NEC ICM. Installed it last night and, Car won’t start now. Cranks but no start. The old ICM is MC – 8541, the new no start one is MC 8132. Don’t know if that’s the trouble but the dilemma I mentioned is the side post on the ICM. There was no wire to the side post when we opened distributor last night. And the research videos I watched last night after getting home frustrated showed a connector on the side post (the video was 1997CRV). I expected we would open it up today and find a wire we had not seen in the dark last night. But there is no wire for that side post… Do you think I just have the wrong ICM? And. My model does not need a side wire?
I've tried to respond to your PM. But the system said that your Inbox is full, that you can't receive any more message. I think that they might have given you the wrong NEC ICM. It could be for an Accord. Have you tried to reinstall the old one? Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yes it allows 1 msg in the PM box- so my message to you took up all the space! Anyway last nite we started the car before changing anything (just to see it start, cold) . Then we installed the new ICM. And got- no start (and I believe, no fire) . We checked by pulling a spark plug wire at the distributor, holding it close to its contact, and cranking. It was dark and we saw no spark. We thought we may have bought (EBay) a bad unit. Today we found one at Autozone $60 that’s supposed to be right, installed, and again no spark! (Autozone “tested” ours original one while we were there,said it was good. Also tested their new one , said it was good) So we reinstalled the original one, which started the car yesterday. Guess what, NO SPARK! We don’t know what to pursue now...will buy a spark tester tomorrow to make double-dam sure I’m reporting correctly about no spark. So we are baffled... also, there is no side wire to go on the 4th post of the ICm. We thought, this morning, that we’ d go back in and find we had missed a wire in the dark. But (though I’ve seen 4th wire on ‘97 model YouTube video) it seems we have only the 3 in a row wires. It this even possible? AND I just read on a troubleshooting EASYAUTODIAGNOSTICS.COM that when we "bumped" the ignition, to turn the rotor to a position where we could reach the screw on the shaft, that we may have BURNED UP OUR Coil_ that we should have pulled the "ignition fuse" first. What the heck! ...aaand, now I see where you warned me on Oct 12 specifically about this but in regard to the ICM.
However, if I assume that original (intermittent) ICM / or coil was ruined by bumping ignition, to get rotor cap turned for removal
AND I assume Ebay sent wrong or bad/used NEC ICM,
That does not explain why Auto Zone ICM didn't start me right up. ((reading back over this, I remember I may have burned up the Coil OR the ICM, maybe BOTH)

So the plan today is to use the site I mentioned above to sort this out. Feeling a little desperate though and still wondering about why there's no 4th wire to go on the side post of the igniter. Any enlightment for us? Thanks for posting!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ps the YouTube where we saw the 4th wire to ICM was 1997. Ours is 1998 and seems to have only 3 wires...
 

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Many times on the older gen1 crvs when this dying and then restarting (eventually) it could be a connection problem where the wires screw to the coil. I have had quite a few that did this and all it took was cleaning those connections. It has been my experience that intermittent icm failure is more likely when they get hot. In cooler weather if they fail, they fail and will not restart. It is my suspicion that your original icm is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah we complicated things by burning up the coil- by using the engine to spin the rotor, with the distributor cap off; to get the rotor turned so we could get to the screw to remove it. Alternatives for someone following this thread would be 1) remove ignition fuse before spinning the rotor 2)unplug the electrical connection which is right there outside the distributor 3) replace distributor cap temporarily, (just hold/press it on) each time while engine is turning the rotor to get to screw 4) or with D cap off, use your spark tester at the coil wire/ to ground, to give that spark a place to go!
This tutorial was way helpful, but don’t sub the tools, use what he recommends! https://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1
It would have saved us about a month and a coil. My Autozone spark test lit up when we tested the coil, at its spring wire contact... but , the coil was NOT GOOD. The AZ spark tester came with no instructions- but, the yellow light-up inside it was not enough to prove the coil good. Maybe we needed to see blue? Don’t know.
So, a new ICM , ignition control module, igniter, control module (all names for same thing!) didn’t quite solve our “car quits while driving “ problem, because we burned up our coil while installing the ICM. Got it running now, it’s a 2 day testing period to have it not die on the way to work, to know For Sure! Thanks Forum Folk!!
 
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