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Discussion Starter #1
I went to my regular mechanic the other day asking for an oil change, and to check out a sort of spring squeak sound coming from the rear end, only on right hand turns. 8 hours later, no oil change and "we couldn't find the source of that noise." But after I get the car back, it is very bouncy, almost unbearably so. If I hadn't had on my seat belt, my head would have hit the ceiling. It was not like that before. I called them the next day and asked what they had done, and they claimed nothing. So I took it to the Honda dealer, who said that the tie rod ends on both front sides needed to be replaced. They quoted me about $380, plus new front breaks at 176 or so. The bouncing was killing me, so I took the car in today about 9:30, expecting it back by 2. At 3 I called and they said that they had had some trouble, but it would be ready by 5:30. it was, but the cost for the tie rod job had shot up to about $450. Since it was late Friday afternoon, I would have to wait til Monday, they told me, to get an adjustment to bring the actual cost to where the estimate was. Some how or other, the cost of all of it went from an estimate of a bit over $500 to well over $750.

And, to top it off, the bouncing is still there!! Does anyone know what I can tell them on Monday, besides "this didn't work"?
 

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Yea, all the work the Honda shop did wouldn't affect bouncing. What I see a lot of people complain about is worn struts that freeze in place when they are fully extended. Sometimes they fix themself after a couple days and sometimes they need replaced. When you took it to the first shop they likely put your vehicle on a lift to get to the oil drain. When they picked it up in the air the struts dropped all the way and then the valves got stuck.

Look up "strut stiction" either here or on Google.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you clarify "Strut Stiction"? I can't find a search result for that. Thanks. So am I to understand that tie rods don't have anything to do with bouncing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you please clarify "strut stiction"? Also, am I to understand that the tie rod ends have nothing to do with bounciness? Thanks.
 

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Also, am I to understand that the tie rod ends have nothing to do with bounciness? Thanks.
Yes. As mentioned, tie rods are a steering component (related to alignment - tow, to be precise). Issues with ride quality will be related to suspension components like struts/shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea, all the work the Honda shop did wouldn't affect bouncing. What I see a lot of people complain about is worn struts that freeze in place when they are fully extended. Sometimes they fix themself after a couple days and sometimes they need replaced. When you took it to the first shop they likely put your vehicle on a lift to get to the oil drain. When they picked it up in the air the struts dropped all the way and then the valves got stuck.

Look up "strut stiction" either here or on Google.
Your explanation of the suspension issue seems logical. I'll drive a few days to see if it corrects itself. If it does not, how much does replacement cost? Is this something a regular mechanic could do, as opposed to the dealer? Could Sears or someplace like that do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another interesting side note: The Honda Dealer gave back to me an "All Points Check" sheet and the struts are checked as "OK" although they are mentioned in a handwritten note. They also recommended rear differential service. If struts are not the problem, what else might cause rough ride?
 

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Over filled tires. I think the stock pressure is around 28 PSI. Up to 32 should be fine. Anything over 35 would be excessive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Took the car out for a test drive. I can feel smoother, quieter control due to new tie rod ends but the bounciness remains an issue. Still, I ran the car through some tests that i had found online, tests for the struts, and except for the excessive oscillation, the struts seem to be ok, as far as I can tell.

If struts are bad and need to be replaced, I feel sure Honda would have told me this; they seldom miss an opportunity to make more $$.

I'll check the tires, too.
 

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Excessive oscillation is probably worn struts. When you accelerate the car the rear end will dive some but when that recovers the rear end should not keep moving up and down. Hope you have solved your issue by now.
Nice to meet a fellow Arkansan by the way. :D
 

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Yes, separate mechanics said struts first thing. So have others. I put some mulch in the back and that helps, but it will need to be addressed soon. Highway speeds can get very scary when the bouncing starts. Mechanic #2 quoted $500 for rear, about $400 for front, so about 1k with alignment and tax. I'm in the dilemma now of wondering if it's time for new car while this one still has some trade in value. Not much, but some. Am looking at Honda FIT, which is surprisingly impressive and way less expensive than new CRV.

Where in ARK are you, MediCRV? I'm in Fort Smith. Notoriously bad Honda dealer here. Much better in NWA.
 

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Sudden severe bouncing sounds like something broke.
Sounds like a strut broke. You can find some deals on quality front and rear struts for around $400 or less, and it is not that difficult to install them (if you buy the complete strut with the spring installed). An alignment should be done after the install.
Did those mechanics that said 'struts, first thing' actually look at them or did they just suggest that from the description you gave them?
Buffalo4
 

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Yes, separate mechanics said struts first thing. So have others. I put some mulch in the back and that helps, but it will need to be addressed soon. Highway speeds can get very scary when the bouncing starts. Mechanic #2 quoted $500 for rear, about $400 for front, so about 1k with alignment and tax. I'm in the dilemma now of wondering if it's time for new car while this one still has some trade in value. Not much, but some. Am looking at Honda FIT, which is surprisingly impressive and way less expensive than new CRV.

Where in ARK are you, MediCRV? I'm in Fort Smith. Notoriously bad Honda dealer here. Much better in NWA.
Yea if the bouncing is really bad then the struts are more than worn but practically obliterated, and therefore they do not control the oscillation of the springs. As for getting it fixed, that sounds about right, price wise for the dealership. OEM struts are about 200 each but the OEM ones are actually pretty good. I still have the ones that were put on at the factory in Japan back in 1999 and they are still fine.
How many miles does the V have?

I live in North Little Rock, by the way. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
133k, approximately. Don't believe struts have ever been replaced. The mechanic who guessed struts backed up his guess by pushing up and down on the car, a cursory visual inspection and, finally, driving the car. That was last week. Oddly enough, the ride is improving, but I can still feel something weird on turns. A few days ago, there was a sort of fishtail swerve in the rear as I turned right. This mechanic said he felt there was no advantage to OEM struts. Do others agree? I'm still considering trading it in for a FIT.
 
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