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'98 EX AWD
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348 Posts
Run out of fuel??

Need to check spark, fuel and compression. Although it's probably not compression related. Most likely something electrical like a coil, igniter or distributor related. Has the vehicle been maintained regularly?
 

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Run out of fuel??

Need to check spark, fuel and compression. Although it's probably not compression related. Most likely something electrical like a coil, igniter or distributor related. Has the vehicle been maintained regularly?
exactly this. Make sure timing belt didnt fail either.

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'98 EX AWD
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348 Posts
Is the Gen 1 prone to the distributor failing, should they be checked or replaced every so often?
Most 90's Hondas' have these issues. It's not so much the distributor itself, it's the fact that the distributor has many ignition components internal to its construction. I've replaced quite a few of them and most of them had different problems than the last. One of the more common issues with them is the 'ignitor'.
 

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Most 90's Hondas' have these issues. It's not so much the distributor itself, it's the fact that the distributor has many ignition components internal to its construction. I've replaced quite a few of them and most of them had different problems than the last. One of the more common issues with them is the 'ignitor'.
Ok so there's not really any preventative maintenance you can do, if it works then I should leave it alone?
 

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'98 EX AWD
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Ok so there's not really any preventative maintenance you can do, if it works then I should leave it alone?
Precisely. The only wearable item on a Honda distributor, is the points in the cap and the rotor itself. Unless you're having a misfire issue or it's running terrible, I wouldn't touch it.
 

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1999 CR-V LX (leather seats upgrade) Nighthawk Black 283,000 miles
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8 Posts
Got a problem more mysterious than this...
My '99 CRV-LX has NO life spark whatsoever. Tried to jump-start it, nothing. Battery was about 5 years old, so I replaced it; still nothing. Dome lights, ignition key light ring doesn't light up, headlights won't react, etc. Checked with voltage meter; battery is juiced, battery cables show 12v leading to the 100A fuse under the hood, as well as to the 40A ignition fuse. I can turn the key all the way as if to start, but nothing.
It was parked in a rodent-free garage, dry but unheated, for just over a week while I was out of town. Temperature got below freezing, but not below zero. No lights left on or doors/hatch ajar while in storage. (Oh, and it did have the ignition switch replaced many years ago during the recall). No problems until now.
Any ideas? I appreciate any input/suggestions you all might have.
Thanks!
 

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check all fuses. Need to fully check all big main fuses. check ground wire connections from battery to body and engine. Check all connections at the fuse box. You lost a primary power connection.

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1999 CR-V LX (leather seats upgrade) Nighthawk Black 283,000 miles
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Thanks for the reply. I checked all fuses in fuse box under the hood (next to the battery) and are all showing continuity and 12V passing through them...checked and cleaned the ground wires, still no power. Still have to check a couple under the dash...tomorrow.
 

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1999 CR-V LX (leather seats upgrade) Nighthawk Black 283,000 miles
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8 Posts
No go on the fuses..everything is good. A friend who is a retired Automotive Tech Ed. teacher suggested removing the battery cables and jumpering to the main fuse with some 12 gauge wire just to see if it will get the dome lights to work. Not going to try and start it this way; just want to see if the cables are bad/old and corroded inside the insulation. If this works, will order new set from Honda.
 

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1999 CR-V LX (leather seats upgrade) Nighthawk Black 283,000 miles
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Problem solved.
1). Get new glasses...:Darn:
Went back and re-visited the under hood fuse box, with a better volt meter. This time, tested 40A ignition fuse block; still good. Re-tested 100A battery fuse block, nothing. Disconnected battery, removed fuse block, and used my 3.50x 'cheaters' and saw the thin break in the fuse. :doh:
Fortunately, O'Reilly's had the original replacement in stock. $4 and 15 minutes of labor and I'm back in business!
Thankful that it wasn't a major electrical problem; still can't figure what caused it to short while sitting locked in the garage. No electrical storms, not touching anything that could conduct electricity; guess that with 283,000+ miles, it was wearing thin...
 

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Problem solved.
1). Get new glasses...:Darn:
Went back and re-visited the under hood fuse box, with a better volt meter. This time, tested 40A ignition fuse block; still good. Re-tested 100A battery fuse block, nothing. Disconnected battery, removed fuse block, and used my 3.50x 'cheaters' and saw the thin break in the fuse. :doh:
Fortunately, O'Reilly's had the original replacement in stock. $4 and 15 minutes of labor and I'm back in business!
Thankful that it wasn't a major electrical problem; still can't figure what caused it to short while sitting locked in the garage. No electrical storms, not touching anything that could conduct electricity; guess that with 283,000+ miles, it was wearing thin...
Great news!
It's always awesome when something that potentially looks like it could be expensive and difficult to fix turns out to be simple and inexpensive.
 
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