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I have a 1998 AWD manual trans CRV, 137k miles, fuel filter, PCV, main relay, plugs and plug wires have about 4k miles on them. I bought it with 132k miles on it, oil is changed every 3k miles, replaced all the items mentioned. Last owner said the timing belt and water pump were replaced, timing belt looks to be in good shape but I'm not 100% sure on when or if it was changed or not. I have been driving it daily for probably 5mos now and have been getting 27-29mpg's in warm weather and about 24mpgs in cold weather. Currently has the stock distributor on it, I have never changed the coil pack or igniter. I bought a entire new/complete distributor but its not a Honda brand and stopped working within 100 miles. There ended up being no spark so I think the igniter might have shot craps.. when that happened I just put the stock distributor back in and it has ran fine since then. SOOOO Last night I'm driving along going to my GF's house and all of the sudden I feel a loss of power and notice the RPMs to be at 500 rpms or less at idle, the CRV barely has enough power from a dead stop to get a slight hill, once it gets to a higher rpm (above 3k or so) it seems to run fine but will buck and jump around. It does NOT die at idle, there is a pretty long delay/reaction from the motor when the gas pedal is pressed. I drove it home last night and pulled all the plugs out, they look fine, did a compression test this morning and from the timing belt side of the motor it read 150, 100, 150, 150, put a new cap and rotor in this morning and it still did the same thing/ no change. I started reading around online and have come across problems with the bad valves in these which might be causing this but I would think 100psi being the lowest it should still run decent and NOT do what its doing?? It has NOT overheated, it was a real bitch to start this morning and didn't want to start and run very well, but it finally did just with a low idle for a bit, then started idling high because of the 33 degree temps. I am going to unplug the fuel injectors 1 by one to see if there is any change in how it idles to see if an injector is bad to rule out a fuel problem. I kind of think its a sensor or something else stupid/small. I don't hear any vacuum leaks but I will probably start spraying some hoses with carb cleaner or brake cleaner to check for a vacuum lead to also rule that out.. Anyone else ever had this problem and if so what fixed it? Any other ideas on what it could be?? Also there is no check engine light flashing/on. Exhaust smells a little rich like fuel isn't being burned 100% so maybe the igniter or the coil in the stock distributor is on the way out? I wouldn't think that either of those would just halfway work and would be more of a it either works or doesn't work type of thing but I could be wrong. Any suggestions??
 

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I'm having some similar things happen. Cold start it rough idle around 1300 and starts to slowly go down in idle and shutter then die I have to hold the throttle Open to restart. Like it's flooded. Codes also saying rich and miss fire. But when at operating temp it runs fine. Idk what to do anymore so I joined the forum to see if anyone can help. Also I already replaced all the ignition components (plugs,wires and so on).
 

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On a cold start with the throttle closed (i.e. your foot is off the gas pedal): the Fast Idle control valve (FIT) is wide open and is a mechanical, beeswax-spring valve. As the coolant temperature increases the FIT valve will begin to close, and close completely when the coolant temperature is over 180 degrees. Once the FIT valve is closed completely, the Intake Air Control valve (IAC), being controlled by the ECU, meters the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate in order to maintain idle speed at ~730-750 RPM +/- 50.

Suggestion: Check your valve adjustment, check your timing (service plug installed), and verify the uncontrolled idle is at 480 rpm (IAC valve and EVAC control solenoid disconnected). Then do a compression check and a leak-down check. You should also pull the snorkel off and locate the two ports inside the throttle body intake. The lower is the FIT valve bypass port, the upper is the IAC bypass port. Depending on engine temperature as described above, those ports will either be drawing air or not. The IAC will always be drawing air, the FIT will only be drawing air when the engine is cold. Once the engine is over 180 degrees, the FIT should be closed completely and no air should be drawing through that port.
 

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Have an incredibly similar problem. No power under 3000, very slow spluttery take offs, slow response of throttle below 3000, worse on cold start. the problem is intermittent and sometimes the car works fine which is frustrating. I had the computer checked, no errors. replaced fuel filter, ran injector cleaner through tank of fuel, put engine oil treatment in. A friend of mine said it might be the sensors on the intake or exhaust so I am going to have a go at looking at those. I will have a look at the FIT and IAC now like MikesRJ suggests.
 

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On a cold start with the throttle closed (i.e. your foot is off the gas pedal): the Fast Idle control valve (FIT) is wide open and is a mechanical, beeswax-spring valve. As the coolant temperature increases the FIT valve will begin to close, and close completely when the coolant temperature is over 180 degrees. Once the FIT valve is closed completely, the Intake Air Control valve (IAC), being controlled by the ECU, meters the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate in order to maintain idle speed at ~730-750 RPM +/- 50.

Suggestion: Check your valve adjustment, check your timing (service plug installed), and verify the uncontrolled idle is at 480 rpm (IAC valve and EVAC control solenoid disconnected). Then do a compression check and a leak-down check. You should also pull the snorkel off and locate the two ports inside the throttle body intake. The lower is the FIT valve bypass port, the upper is the IAC bypass port. Depending on engine temperature as described above, those ports will either be drawing air or not. The IAC will always be drawing air, the FIT will only be drawing air when the engine is cold. Once the engine is over 180 degrees, the FIT should be closed completely and no air should be drawing through that port.
Can you please direct me to images of the FIT and IAC that you are talking about? you said that the "FIT should be closed completely and no air should be drawing through that port" how do I check that?

Thank you
 

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Ok here we go. Found a great guide on how to clean your IAC with pictures http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-6/***how-clean***-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/

I cleaned the IAC (it was filthy, caked in black stuff, icky!) and gave the intake manifold a clean with carb clean and this had a significant impact on the issue. The Idle now stays closer to the 1000rpm and accelerates smoother. Did still drop occasionally below 1000rpm when coming to complete stop, but still heaps better than before. Will have to look at the FIT next.
 
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