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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen:

Can someone guide me through the fuel filler pipe replacement for my 1999 CRV? I'm getting a P1456 and the pipe is crumbly rusty where it meets the rubber fill and vapor tubes to the tank.

It looks an easy job with just clamps and hoses removal, and two mounting bolts at the bottom end of the pipe. But the top of the pipe with its plastic shield seems a mystery.

Also, it looks like fame and suspension components block sliding the pipe out.

Thanks for your replies.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Gents:

Thanks for all the views of my thread. I'm still searching for a procedure to replace the filler neck on the Gen 1 CRV.

In addition to the usual internet sources I've contacted a few filler neck suppliers to see if their "necks" come with installation instructions. So far no luck.

I'll hang in there.
 

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Hi, I'm reviewing my service manual to try to understand your problem. Are you talking about fuel tube / quick connect fittings? The manual describes these parts as the ones that connect the in-tank fuel pump to the fuel feed pipe. Is this the connection you're trying to work on?
 

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I believe he is talking about the gas fill tube, one one the gas goes in when you fill up your V. My 97 also has rust in this area so will be interested in what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hi, I'm reviewing my service manual to try to understand your problem. Are you talking about fuel tube / quick connect fittings? The manual describes these parts as the ones that connect the in-tank fuel pump to the fuel feed pipe. Is this the connection you're trying to work on?
Thanks BeRo:

I think Honda's terminology is "Fuel Filler Pipe" and this is the refuelling pipe between the gas cap and the gas tank.

I'll try to attach some pictures of the top at the gas cap and the bottom where the pipes connect to rubber hoses.

DSC05905.jpg DSC05910.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I believe he is talking about the gas fill tube, one one the gas goes in when you fill up your V. My 97 also has rust in this area so will be interested in what happens.
Thanks bchan42. You are correct about the description of the gas fill tube.

I think that mine is so rusty at the tank end that it will crumble when I work on it, so I'd better be prepared to know how to fit the replacement and not get in over my head.
 

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Thanks bchan42. You are correct about the description of the gas fill tube.

I think that mine is so rusty at the tank end that it will crumble when I work on it, so I'd better be prepared to know how to fit the replacement and not get in over my head.
Looks just like my 97 ...
 

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WD,

Gotcha - the photos make it pretty obvious. I don't see anything in the manual specific to those hoses, but there is information on accessing the fuel tank area from inside the CRV, behind the driver side back seat. I can post a summary if you would like.

I believe you are on the right track. Apparently for P1456 you should start with the fuel cap and fuel cap seal, then the fuel filler pipe, and then test the fuel tank pressure sensor if necessary.

Keep us updated!
 

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There is a metal evap line that runs under the car where the brake and fuel lines are too. Not sure if that would be a 1456 or a 1457 though. There are actually 3 of them. The main fuel line, the return fuel line and the evap line. There are the 2 rear brake lines as well so 5 total.

Have you tried looking at the fill pipe right after filling the tank? Could maybe try and fill it as high as possible, though that isn't really good for the rest of the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is a metal evap line that runs under the car where the brake and fuel lines are too. Not sure if that would be a 1456 or a 1457 though. There are actually 3 of them. The main fuel line, the return fuel line and the evap line. There are the 2 rear brake lines as well so 5 total.

Have you tried looking at the fill pipe right after filling the tank? Could maybe try and fill it as high as possible, though that isn't really good for the rest of the fuel system.
Thanks shryp. All five of those lines (tubes) that you mention are long gone on my 1999 CRV. I replaced the fuel supply, fuel return, and fuel vapor lines with nylon, which I heartily recommend. It's tough stuff and never rusts!! And the rear brake lines are the copper nickle alloy replacements that also never rust.

I did follow your suggestion of filling the tank to the top of the filler neck and look for leaks. It was about a 5 km drive home and I found no fuel wetness. It could have evaporated. But this approach does not (???) find a leak in the vapor line that is part of the filler neck. I don't believe, but don't really know.

Here's a shot of the top of the filler neck inside the fender.

DSC05907.jpg
 

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I suppose you could either take it someplace for a proper smoke test or try to rig something up yourself. You might be able to spice into a hose somewhere with an air compressor and pump the system up to maybe 5 or 10 psi and then spray some soapy water around. Your issue might be one of the evap purge valves sticking open too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I suppose you could either take it someplace for a proper smoke test or try to rig something up yourself. You might be able to spice into a hose somewhere with an air compressor and pump the system up to maybe 5 or 10 psi and then spray some soapy water around. Your issue might be one of the evap purge valves sticking open too.
Thanks Shryp:

Those are all excellent suggestions.

Do those electronic valves operate on 12 volts, or something like 5 volts from the ECU? I'd hate to fry them with a test.

I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out the pressure at which the gas cap pops its relief valve, because to pressure test the tank and lines and bubble test, I didn't want to over-pressurize anything and blow stuff apart. The best answer I came up with was the gas cap opens at 20 inches of water column. And 20 inches of water is less than 1 psi. I think the bubble test will still work at 1 psi as its a pretty sensitive method of leak detection.

Can you advise one the gas cap relief pressure?
 

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Just realease the four clips on the backside and you can take the plastic out, you need to realease the rubber hoses first.

The tricky thing: i think you need to take Down the rear trailing arm to get the fuelpipe out. And also do some rebuild/welding in the fuel pipe area before mounting something new, looks pretty rusty to me
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just realease the four clips on the backside and you can take the plastic out, you need to realease the rubber hoses first.

The tricky thing: i think you need to take Down the rear trailing arm to get the fuelpipe out. And also do some rebuild/welding in the fuel pipe area before mounting something new, looks pretty rusty to me
Thanks Nallerplys.

Those four plastic clips are quite mysterious to me. Their release mechanism is not self evident, at least to me.

I feel I can release the rubber hoses at the lower end of the filler pipe.

I believe you've correctly identified the "tricky thing" about taking down the rear suspension, to get the old out and the new in.

And there is a lot of rust in the area and it's worse than superficial, but if I can't use the factory bracket, I fabricate something that'll be serviceable.

Have you done the fuel pipe R & R?

With appreciation...............
 

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Thanks Shryp:

Those are all excellent suggestions.

Do those electronic valves operate on 12 volts, or something like 5 volts from the ECU? I'd hate to fry them with a test.

I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out the pressure at which the gas cap pops its relief valve, because to pressure test the tank and lines and bubble test, I didn't want to over-pressurize anything and blow stuff apart. The best answer I came up with was the gas cap opens at 20 inches of water column. And 20 inches of water is less than 1 psi. I think the bubble test will still work at 1 psi as its a pretty sensitive method of leak detection.

Can you advise one the gas cap relief pressure?
I can't answer any of that, but I did send you a PM that might help you. I think most of the valves are 12v.
 

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Thanks Nallerplys.

Those four plastic clips are quite mysterious to me. Their release mechanism is not self evident, at least to me.

I feel I can release the rubber hoses at the lower end of the filler pipe.

I believe you've correctly identified the "tricky thing" about taking down the rear suspension, to get the old out and the new in.

And there is a lot of rust in the area and it's worse than superficial, but if I can't use the factory bracket, I fabricate something that'll be serviceable.

Have you done the fuel pipe R & R?

With appreciation...............
It went of 3 days ago because i was cutting and welding in that end, up near the fuelpipe, But i didnt take down the fuel pipe, just put it aside.

I used this one from the outside to take the plastic-bracket of. And it came of easy without cracking anything, but you need to be carefull :)

Clip.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I can't answer any of that, but I did send you a PM that might help you. I think most of the valves are 12v.
Continued thanks Shryp.

I'll get back at it soon and hit those valves with 12 volts. I'll wire a low wattage bulb in series with my test lead so the valve can't draw too much current.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It went of 3 days ago because i was cutting and welding in that end, up near the fuelpipe, But i didnt take down the fuel pipe, just put it aside.

I used this one from the outside to take the plastic-bracket of. And it came of easy without cracking anything, but you need to be carefull :)

View attachment 48161
Much appreciation Nallerplys. I guess those plastic fasteners are some type of push fit or friction fit,
 

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No one has yet to answer the question, How do you replace the fuel filler neck?
No problem with the removal, but do you need to take off the strut? or the rear mount?
 
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