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Discussion Starter #1
April 6, 2013

Greetings:

I'm an automotive DIY'er and have always changed the oil and oil filters on my vehicles.

Today, my first attempt to change the oil and filter on my 2012 CR-V (purchased in August 2012) met with failure. (This would have represented the vehicle's first oil change.) (Owners of the vehicle will find the procedure for doing this on pp. 278-279 of the car's Owner's Manual.) No matter how hard I tried, I could not unscrew the four (4) Phillips-head screws holding the metal cover that shields the oil filter and drain plug from the road surface. Is there some trick to removing these screws? The owner's manual says nothing about it and implies that the four screws should be extremely easy to remove.

If any one can provide me with a tip on how to remove these screws (they refused to budge, even when using a long-handled screw driver), so I can change the oil on my CR-V, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, in advance, for the help.

pa.legendman
 

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They are a little hard to remove ,but they just unscrew like any other screw. I used a screwdriver with a rubber coated handle.

Note the drain plug torque is only 30 ft-lbs on this engine, also the book calls for 4.2 quarts but I found that I needed 4.5 quarts after changing both oil and filter.
 

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An manual impact driver will probably do it.
Or, just take it to an oil change place and let them 'break' them free when they change the oil. :)
Use a good 'fat' handled screwdriver with a brand new type tip.
Buffalo4
PS: CounterClockWise loosens. :)
 

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I run an lube center and I am farely close to two honda dealers and do a lot of the new civics and crvs with the aluminim cover and we have never had any problems removing them at all...we just use a long #2 phillips screw driver and they just come out...if anything spray some wd40 .....good luck man and hope all goes well
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Greetings:

Many thanks for your helpful input. I will give the screws another try next weekend, after liberally spraying them with WD-40. It's good to know, too, that they're right-hand screws and should come out by turning counter-clockwise.

I will report the results of my second "go" at removing the screws sometime next weekend.

All the best,

pa.legendman
 

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Wow! That's what I get for replying to a situation where I'm not familiar with the vehicle yr.
Didn't know those screws were plastic. :eek:
You didn't say if they turned at all when you tried to take them out. I sure would not use an impact driver on them if they are plastic. Someone here or your owner's manual should be able to address this issue correctly.
If you know anyone who works at a quick service oil change place, they would probably know.
Perhaps it just take a half turn or so and then they are released and can be pulled or pried down.
Sorry for any bad info.
Looking at the photo from the link posted below, it sure looks like those plastic phillips head screws are actually plugs which only need to be turned around 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then pulled or pried down.
http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2012/long-term-road-test/2012-honda-cr-v-awd-diy-oil-change.html

Buffalo4
 

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Hey guys, the screws are metal. The thread part is about 1/4" long and they just unscrew. I think the under body shield is too flexible for an impact driver that you strike with a hammer.
Just find a screwdriver that fits the screw tightly and has a good grip on it. You could wrap a piece of sand paper around the handle if that will help.
 

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Greetings:

Many thanks for your helpful input. I will give the screws another try next weekend, after liberally spraying them with WD-40. It's good to know, too, that they're right-hand screws and should come out by turning counter-clockwise.

I will report the results of my second "go" at removing the screws sometime next weekend.

All the best,

pa.legendman
How did it work out?
I'm not looking forward to dealing with those screws.The last generation was so easy to do a change.
 

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If you live where the roads are salted in the winter it might be a good idea to put a little anti seize on the screw threads before the corrosion sets in. We don't have the snow and salt problems in the south so I did not have much trouble removing them at all. On the 2012 and I would think also the 2013 the filter is straight up and down so it is easy to get a cap type wrench on the filter. I also like to fill the filter full of oil so that the oil pressure comes up instantly.
 

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I think that part is under $10 if you had to cut it out. Or remove the whole panel, number 8.

Number 10 in diagram.

Part number
74114-T0A-A00 lid, oil drain


 

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Hi. I too couldn't loosen the 4 screws on my 2012 first oil change. They must have put them in with a bulldozer! I sprayed some WD-40 on and tried an hour later. They were still very tight, but did come loose. I was disappointed that Honda made such a flimsy cover. I don't know why they covered it at all. In all the cars I've owned, the oil area was not covered and I never had any issues with the plug or filters. I have owned over 20 cars and trucks. I did not screw them in very tight when putting them back in, just snug. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi. I too couldn't loosen the 4 screws on my 2012 first oil change. They must have put them in with a bulldozer! I sprayed some WD-40 on and tried an hour later. They were still very tight, but did come loose. I was disappointed that Honda made such a flimsy cover. I don't know why they covered it at all. In all the cars I've owned, the oil area was not covered and I never had any issues with the plug or filters. I have owned over 20 cars and trucks. I did not screw them in very tight when putting them back in, just snug. Hope this helps.

The cover is probably for a bit better MPG with aerodynamics.
Sometimes getting the drain plug and/or filter off the first time is a pain too.
 

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Could the difficulty be because, the "Philips" are actually JIS screws?

http://tinyurl.com/cng3oan

Look at the small images to the right of the main image in the link, above.



I have a couple Philips screwdrivers (and one bit on my impact wrench) that I have modified by grinding a little off the tip. Works MUCH better on JIS screws that have been tightened by a Samurai. :)

Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) cross-head screwdrivers are still another standard, often improperly referred to as "Japanese Phillips". Compatible screw heads are usually identifiable by a single raised dot or an "X" to one side of the cross slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and Japanese imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screwdriver#cite_note-15
^^ From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screwdriver
 

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Honda probably figured you people would mess up. That is why they left the little pry space :p

Start unscrewing with phillips screwdriver while prying down at that corner. It should come off.

 

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The next time someone does an oil change on one of these with the oil drain cover, can you please take a photo of the screw head. I want to see what it is once and for all. Thanks =)

I might even order a screw the next time I do a Honda part order because this is bugging me to death =)
 

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The next time someone does an oil change on one of these with the oil drain cover, can you please take a photo of the screw head. I want to see what it is once and for all. Thanks =)

I might even order a screw the next time I do a Honda part order because this is bugging me to death =)

I'd like to know too.I may even replace these screws with stainless steel phillip head screws.
 

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I couldn’t remove 3 out the 4 metal screws that hold the metal panel on and I could only get 1 of 2 metal screws loose that hold the plastic panel to access the transmission drain plug.
Going to have cut or drill them out and replace them. Definitely going to use some anti-seize on the new ones.
I’m curious how the previous owner drained the oil.
 

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Just a fine point but regular WD40 is not a lubricating agent, it is a water dispersant. For hard to remove screws/bolts use White Lithium, Silicone or Stay Gel Lubricant (all these also WD40 brand)
 
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