Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought this car used under a month ago, and no problems were brought to my attention with the radiator or any of the cooling system other than coolant being low. I flushed and refilled the coolant about three weeks back. Last week I noticed the coolant in the reservoir was low again and topped it off. No leaks at that time.

Today, however, I was driving back from work and stopped somewhere. When I came back to the car I saw a small coolant leak under the car. I looked under the hood and found some coolant had splattered. It looked like the splatter was coming out from the radiator cap. I don't know if the problem is a bad radiator cap or something else in the system. Coolant is low again in the reservoir. Engine temperature is normal. I looked around the area of the splatter and didn't see anything that seemed to be leaking.

Any ideas on what's wrong? It's my first car and I want to keep it alive as long as possible.

20170710_174133.jpg 20170710_174142.jpg 20170710_174146.jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,200 Posts
The splatter tells me the fan is spreading or flinging coolant from an ever increasing leak. I suspect your radiator is toast.
Time to stop driving and fix it
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,632 Posts
Yeah, the plastic radiators have been known to crack due to age.

Have your cooling system pressure-tested (you can 'borrow' testers from auto parts stores for free); if indeed its the rad, eBay has bargains (but note the reviews).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Yes.

My 1999 CRV split the radiator at about 200 000 km, then the top hose split near 300 000 km, then burst a small hoe to the intake plenum near 400 000 km.

Replace all three items.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
My 2000 bought with 114k also had the usual cracked radiator top.
Trip to Napa for new radiator and 2 hours had it all ok again. Still that way.

Big issue is make sure this car had the valves adjusted early and often.
If unknown condition/age, change out the normal maintenance items.
Car is easy to work on.
Lots of help here and YouTube.

GC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
It could just be the radiator cap. You can get one fairly cheap online or at places like AutoZone or some places may even test your old one for free. (no, it doesn't have to be a Honda cap)
Clean up the splatter, when cool, top off the radiator, leave cap off, Start it up and see if you are getting a lot of bubbles coming up though the coolant. Run it up to normal operating temps while it is parked. A lot of bubbles can indicate a cracked head or blown head gasket. If that seems good, put the cap back on tight and wait until the car gets to operating temps (or go for a short drive) and then check to see if you can spot where the leak is coming from (leave the motor running). Be careful of moving parts. It could be spraying out one of the hoses, the tank/finned core joint, radiator cap, etc.
If you do need a new radiator, buy a Denso or Koyo brand on Ebay or similar , or spend a bunch on an OEM (probably Denso anyways). I went the cheap route on my Ody and the new radiator (non brand) doesn't transfer heat as well as the original, but other than that, it is still leak-free.
Also, check your radiator fans to see if they are working. Start the CRV, turn the AC on, and both fans should now be turning fast, regardless of the engine or AC temp setting.
A Denso on ebay for your CRV is just under $70.00 with free shipping.

Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I don't see any cracks in the radiator however, I drove it again and it just looked like a light leak from the cap, didn't even spray. Then the next time I drove it, there was no leak at all. I replaced the cap and we'll see where it goes from there. I also noticed that the coolant I topped it off with was not 50/50 green like the guys at Autozone told me. It was universal 50/50 coolant that happened to be green. I'm guessing it's not rated for the same temperatures and so it boiled over.

When I got an inspection done before I bought the car we did a compression test, no leaks. Also he said the engine was quiet so it didn't need a valve adjustment yet. I'll probably get one done at 150,000 miles I think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Didn't leak at all last couple times I drove it. I think I was given the wrong coolant to top it off with. Replaced the cap and we'll see where it goes from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Pressure test done a couple weeks ago and it passed with flying colors. I've replaced the cap and I'm seeing how it holds up. No leaks so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
That other coolant you got from autozone may not be the same, but its boiling point should be the same if the mixture was the same.
Hopefully the radiator cap solves the problem.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Have we determined how many miles on this 2000? Helps with known issues at certain mileage.

Not the noisy valves that will get ya with this engine its the quiet. Valves need to be adjusted at 30 k and not the 105k manual says. Honda screwed up on this point. Look it up.

Under the car known issues are sway bar links/bushings, rear diff fluid change.
Ignition switch also can become problematic as could the locks.

When I got my 2000 in 2015 with 114k I changed most things I could, not knowing what P.O. had done or not.
Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, radiator(leak), sway bar links, rear diff fluid, 5mt fluid and had valves adjusted. the known was timing belt at 104k. Oil gets changed with syn blend at 5k along with filter. Changed out rotors / pads (rotor warped. Luckily the screws that hold rotors on were nice and non rusted in)

As an aside, made it through a normal anchorage winter ( 85" snow, 10-15 degree days, packed ice at intersections) on all season Michelin Defender xts. Did well.

Bout it, most your problems and questions be dealt with here. And in your own garage. Oh yeah, forget about any screw type jack, like factory one. Junk. Get garage jack/ stands.and have few blocks to use with it to get car off ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
Do yourself a favor if you plan to keep this vehicle for years to come, replace it with a two row aluminum radiator. When I purchased my 2001 in '14, I had purchased an oem radiator for around $40 on ebay. When my replacement radiator goes, I'm upgrading to the two row aluminum. These oem radiators tend to produce the hairline cracks on the top portion of the radiator's plastic cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
Do yourself a favor if you plan to keep this vehicle for years to come, replace it with a two row aluminum radiator. When I purchased my 2001 in '14, I had purchased an oem radiator for around $40 on ebay. When my replacement radiator goes, I'm upgrading to the two row aluminum. These oem radiators tend to produce the hairline cracks on the top portion of the radiator's plastic cap.
Was it really an OEM radiator, or an OEM equivalent? Curious.
The one I bought off Ebay was an OEM equivalent and it was not a Denso and it did not cool (transfer heat) as well as the original on my '03 Ody. The original one did spring a leak between the top plastic tank and the finned core below.
Changing the radiator in an '03 Ody is a PITA.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
Have we determined how many miles on this 2000? Helps with known issues at certain mileage.

Not the noisy valves that will get ya with this engine its the quiet. Valves need to be adjusted at 30 k and not the 105k manual says. Honda screwed up on this point. Look it up.

Under the car known issues are sway bar links/bushings, rear diff fluid change.
Ignition switch also can become problematic as could the locks.

When I got my 2000 in 2015 with 114k I changed most things I could, not knowing what P.O. had done or not.
Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, radiator(leak), sway bar links, rear diff fluid, 5mt fluid and had valves adjusted. the known was timing belt at 104k. Oil gets changed with syn blend at 5k along with filter. Changed out rotors / pads (rotor warped. Luckily the screws that hold rotors on were nice and non rusted in)

As an aside, made it through a normal anchorage winter ( 85" snow, 10-15 degree days, packed ice at intersections) on all season Michelin Defender xts. Did well.

Bout it, most your problems and questions be dealt with here. And in your own garage. Oh yeah, forget about any screw type jack, like factory one. Junk. Get garage jack/ stands.and have few blocks to use with it to get car off ground.
Have you ever changed your cabin air filter? I changed my roommate's 2000 CRV at around 190k miles. It had never been changed as the metal bar was still in in. I had to do some good vacuuming inside that area to get rid of a LOT of crap inside, after I removed that filter. Much better airflow through the vents after that. :D
I just thought that perhaps you might not know about that filter. I didn't even know it had one until I joined this forum years ago.

Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Oh yeah, I changed that out also
What a pita that was. Scraped knuckles and all.
And I dropped a small wrench into the shifter boot.
Newer cars are easier to change it sounds like.

You can see photos on my profile of dirty filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
Make sure that top radiator hose clamp is tight as well. Mine had some seepage when hot and at full pressure when shaking the hose.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top