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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I'm trying to figure out the cause of the issues with my power windows on my 2000 CR-V. Here's my scenario: with the master switch set to "Main On" I can control all of the windows through the master switch (normal operation). If I set it to "Main Off" I cannot control any of the windows from the master switch (normal operation), but I also cannot control the windows at their respective door switches (not normal operation). If I turn the master switch back to "Main On" I can control the windows at their respective door switches (not normal operation) with the exception of the front passenger window (this one will not go down using it's door switch no matter if the master switch is set to "Main On" or "Main Off" ... The only way I can get it to go down is from the master switch while set to "Main On").

The first thing that popped into my head was faulty master switch. Well, I performed all the power window tests per the Service Manual (pages 23-134 to 23-138) and they all passed. :confused: Can it still be a faulty master switch? It's the only explanation I have for such weird behavior. I'm just trying to get some insight and maybe some feedback before I fork out the cash on a new or used known-good master switch.

Thanks in advance,
Danny
 

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Do you hear any " SCRATCHY " sound coming from the switch area while rolling down the driver window ? You might make sure the wiring plug is not loose on master switch as well as checking the connectors for BURNED look. JMO and update us when you can, good luck.
David g.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No scratchy sound is heard, if I were to hear it though, what would that imply? The plug looks good and there are no burn marks. In addition, there's continuity from the master switch to all the power window regulators and power window door switches.

I bought a "known-good" used master switch only to still be faced with the same issue (Maybe this one is also faulty and seller lied). Could it be a faulty Power Window Relay? However, if it was a faulty relay wouldn't it affect all the power windows? This is pretty frustrating.
 

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The Main Off on the dash is like the power window lock. With it off you should NOT be able to control any window from it's respective seating position. It's so little kids in the back seat don't play with the windows.


Your problem is very likely a faulty passenger window switch.
 

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No scratchy sound is heard, if I were to hear it though, what would that imply? The plug looks good and there are no burn marks. In addition, there's continuity from the master switch to all the power window regulators and power window door switches.

I bought a "known-good" used master switch only to still be faced with the same issue (Maybe this one is also faulty and seller lied). Could it be a faulty Power Window Relay? However, if it was a faulty relay wouldn't it affect all the power windows? This is pretty frustrating.
Bad connection will cause arcing (funny sound) when operating switches, but you say it all looks good. You may have duplicated your problem twice with another bad switch. Chevck under hood relay box for any bad connections. I think there are several 4 pi relays that are the same size, might try switching to see if that helps, if not, maybe new master switch, 30% off @ HondaPartsNow.com - Genuine Honda Parts......David g.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
$160+ for a switch is still a lot in my opinion. Anyway, I tested the Power Window Relay in the Under Dash Fuse Box according to the Service Manual and it was good.

I decided to swap the power window door switches between the front passenger and the rear passenger just to test the behavior. Granted I had already tested each of these per the Service Manual and they all passed. However, for some unknown reason everytime I would put down the front passenger's window via the Master Switch the switch at the front passenger's door would no longer work (until I turned car off/on). Thus why I decided to swap them around, my mentality being I would rather be able to put my front windows down than my rears at any given time as a temporary fix until I got everything resolved.

That all being said, switching these two around appears to have resolved part of the problem. Don't ask me how, lol. So now this is the behavior of my windows, can someone tell me if this is correct functionality:

Master Switch "Main On": I can control all windows at Master Switch, plus each window can be controlled individually at its respective door switch.
Master Switch "Main Off": I can control only driver's window, I cannot control any other window at the Master Switch and the switches at each door stop functioning.
 

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That is NORMAL operation. Do you think it could be the driver AUTO switch ? I'm assuming yours does work when you push the button the 2nd time to auto roll it down ? Just a thought, let me know. PM is ok.
David g.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I'll find out for sure on Saturday. You see, during all this time my driver side windows doesn't go down due to a bad motor on the window regulator. My new one arrives this weekend. I've been testing and saying that it works because I've been checking continuity and voltage when pressing the switch and get the correct flow of current and voltage when going up or going down at the switch. I'll be able to test the auto-down function more easily then.

If you say it's normal operation, then hooray! One less gremlin taken care of, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
New driver's window regulator is in and everything now works perfect (including Auto-Down function)! Just wanted to let you guys know, appreciate the help provided!
 
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