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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Granddaughters CRV stalled recently while driving about 30 miles after she filled with gas. I have some extra parts and own 3 CRV s. After inspecting timing belt to be in time, installing new crank sensor since it was easy at the time, checking valve adjustment, installing new plugs, changing wires and swapping distributor along with new fuel filter and even swapping pump I am finding the following. The car cranks well and tries to start. I feel it has fuel pressure by cracking line and it does try to fire a little harder when either testing. Noid Light indicates injector is getting signal. Spark tester shows decent spark. It acts like spark timing is off. Has anyone experienced computers acting in this manner? I am ready to plumb a way to empty the fuel tank and swap fuel but really don’t feel it is a fuel issue since engine tries to fire. It’s like all the right things are there but not happening at the right time. I do not have a scan tool but no codes are showing. The distributor in the engine now is brand new. Any words of wisdom appreciated.
 

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I hope your granddaughter is helping you, she’s lucky to have access to your experience. Are your CR Vs as old as hers? I don’t know if the troubles I’ve had are specific to 1998-2000, or not. But we now keep a spare ICM (ebay $12) in the glove box, it’s so easy to burn one out- simply by testing spark “incorrectly “. If I remember, the fact you have any spark rules out the ICM but not positive about that. Also the coil can get involved for no specific reason- and be showing spark, just not good ENOUGH spark. This link was helpful in tracking it down, God Bless you
Part 1 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I hope your granddaughter is helping you, she’s lucky to have access to your experience. Are your CR Vs as old as hers? I don’t know if the troubles I’ve had are specific to 1998-2000, or not. But we now keep a spare ICM (ebay $12) in the glove box, it’s so easy to burn one out- simply by testing spark “incorrectly “. If I remember, the fact you have any spark rules out the ICM but not positive about that. Also the coil can get involved for no specific reason- and be showing spark, just not good ENOUGH spark. This link was helpful in tracking it down, God Bless you
Part 1 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey
I actually have 4 crvs. 97,98,99,2000. I live in a rural area and have been trying to keep my 2 granddaughters in safe vehicles that can do well on gravel roads and winter conditions. I drive one also about 80 miles a day to work. I have had a good assortment of parts as another one did not survive a bad gravel road crash but the girls inside were fine. I have one more I am trying to get fixed up as a spare. I have bought most not running or in need of engine work. My first real experience with buying cars with almost 200,000 on them and going forward from there. Collectively we have about 200,000 additional miles on them now. This is my first trouble that has me searching for more information. I have been installing new eBay distributors in all for easy and budget. This car just got a new one again yesterday with no improved results. Does anyone know when each injector should fire compared to when the spark should fire? I have help coming to check timing while cranking. I was trying to watch noid light and spark tester to see if I can learn anything.
 

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I agree with Pkirk it could be the ICM. I have seen many Aftermarket Distributors with Aftermarket ICM that will not produce spark when its inside the cylinder as its higher pressures in there. Do you have a good working distributor in a working engine. You can use a whiteout to mark the original position of the donor engine of the distributor so you can put it back without checking the timing again. It could also be a bad Main Relay. Try to spray throttle body cleaner in the intake while cranking see if the engine starts. If it starts you will need to trace the problem in the fuel system. Try this too, turn the key in the ON position without starting the engine see if the CEL comes on then shuts off, this confirms that the Main Relay works. Let us know. You can also try this retard the distributor see if it fires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with Pkirk it could be the ICM. I have seen many Aftermarket Distributors with Aftermarket ICM that will not produce spark when its inside the cylinder as its higher pressures in there. Do you have a good working distributor in a working engine. You can use a whiteout to mark the original position of the donor engine of the distributor so you can put it back without checking the timing again. It could also be a bad Main Relay. Try to spray throttle body cleaner in the intake while cranking see if the engine starts. If it starts you will need to trace the problem in the fuel system. Try this too, turn the key in the ON position without starting the engine see if the CEL comes on then shuts off, this confirms that the Main Relay works. Let us know. You can also try this retard the distributor see if it fires.
I started with the original distributor and then swapped to one that I replaced coil and module in initially. I ordered a complete new one which I just installed yesterday. I get cel and can hear pump cycle. See pressure when I crack line and have done this with original pump and filter and now replacements. I have tested compression, spark and injector pulse but only on cyl 1. I did swap main relay looking for change but none. By dumb luck or swapping almost everything I thought some change would occur. My next moves are to test all cylinders for compression, spark, and injector fire along with using timing light while cranking. I tested throttle position sensor for output and swapped map. I need to learn about IAC and if it can come into play also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have sprayed starting fluid and results are the same other than trying to fire a little harder. Changed crank sensor because I had it. Just to eliminate old one. Both showed resistance. I had to replace ac bracket do to broken tension arm bolt. I inspected timing belt positioning and condition along with water pump bearing while I was there. Ran through valve adjustment after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today’s update. My son came over to give me more hands. I have about 170 lbs compression and about 40 psi fuel not running obviously. Have data reading from tps and others on my scan tool. If Icranked at full throttle engine could kind of start at about 550 rpm for a short while. We set timing while cranking to get there. Engine still acts like all the components are there but not the right amounts at the right time. No start at closed throttle. Seeing air temp and reading from map sensor. Tried unplugging knock sensor. I don’t know what all a computer failure can give as a result but it seems are not being computed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have opened it up and checked as I thought it possible too.
We have even tried removing all distributor bolts and rotating to see it if would run anywhere. Nothing gained. Tried some things with jumper on blue socket but no luck. We can see noid light cycle increase and decrease with throttle position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Plugs look like they have been firing. If you put one wire on spark tester and crank then look at the plug with wire removed it is wet. at this point I am going to pull the valve cover again and show marks to my son so that other eyes have seen where marks are. I have had one off a tooth when installing and the results were similar but I still find it unlikely that something jumped or slipped so little on its own. Compression is about 170. Fuel pressure showing about 40 since motor is not making vacuum to regulate. All the components seem to be there but not at the correct time. I am back to checking mechanical timing again, waiting for a used computer, and checking on appointment to trailer car to town and have shop with better scanner than I have and All Data account run through tests.
 
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