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Hey all! I recently got this code upon checking why my cel came on. I had the cel on for awhile and knew according to the code it was for either one of the 02 sensors or catalytic converter. So I finally did downstream o2 sensor but the light came back rather quick after that. I did try cleaning it first. Then did the upstream one and it stayed off for a good bit but then came back on. Checked the code and this time I got the p1457 code indicating a leak in the evap canister area. Did some quick research on that and bought the canister bypass valve or purge valve solenoid (I noticed it’s called different things by different places). By the time it came in and I got under there to do the job I realized the old one- that rounder piece the two screws connect the solenoid to actually was cracked as well by the inner screw (which was rusted to hell anyhow) so I bought that piece too. Didn’t even bother to try and take those two pieces apart. Reinstalled the whole setup and now I’ve just been waiting/hoping for the cel to clear itself. I drove over 45 miles already with highway driving included. And I’m not sure if it will clear now. I read different things on this- some disconnect the battery ( I did not). I didn’t cuz I read that it should take two drive cycles and it will clear itself if problem no longer exists. Should I try disconnecting the battery now? Also read to watch and make sure how much fuel you have in the tank- like you should have 50-75%, anyone know about this? I had a full tank when the light came on and just now got it down to half.
I know there can be a leak in hoses or elsewhere so I’ll plan on tracing those out more and getting a closer look at them but when I was down there I didn’t see anything obvious in the canister area. I obviously had to remove the hoses and those areas looked fine. I can attach a pic of the finished job. Ha please tell me if I connected the hose opposite of what they should be. I made the mistake of not marking one and my before pic was with the plastic covering on. But that pic helped to an extent I think and I went based off of that where the hose on the left actually goes up and around the one on the right.
142943
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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This is the trouble code that occurs when you do not close the gas cap tightly enough. I would check to make sure you closed the gas cap tightly enough, and that the seal is intact.

After that, you might just want to replace all the vacuum hoses, because they tend to fail over time.

if that doesn't work, I would have your fuel tank checked for leaks, because sometimes it will get holes rusted in it.

About clearing the computer memory, I would say never disconnect the battery for that purpose. Partly because disconnecting the battery is potentially dangerous to you, and more dangerous to the computer, if it is not very quickly disconnected, and later, very quickly reconnected. You don't want Sparks between the battery terminal and the wire connector. You certainly do not want intermittent contact as you are disconnecting or reconnecting the battery.

The bigger reason to not disconnect the battery unnecessarily is that the battery clamps can be damaged by frequent connecting and disconnecting. I've seen a few cars where the battery clamp is simply worn out to the point where it will no longer clamp securely onto the battery, just because it was disconnected too many times.

That hurts more because the battery terminal clamp is frequently part of the wiring harness, and not replaceable.

Disconnecting the battery is usually recommended for repair procedures, because not disconnecting the battery for those repair procedures is more dangerous than disconnecting it.

To clear the computer memory, there is a fuse in the engine compartment fuse box labeled "back up." That powers all of the computer memory in the car, including the radio. That is what should be disconnected to clear computer memory.
 

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I had the 1457 code last week. It started shortly after I got my 01 CR-V a few months back. I tried all sorts of stuff. Didn't help but last week I bought a new gas cap for 12.00 and that was the problem. Save yourself the trouble buy a gas cap and go from there. Also when. You pull the backup fuse pull the, ecu fuse as well for 30 seconds it will ensure you clear any dtc's
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey guys sorry been awhile since I’ve been able to get on here and update. Well unfortunately I saw lochinvars message right after I did disconnect the battery (got sick of waiting for the thing to clear). Oh and by the way I found the line from the bottom purge solenoid plus canister vent assembly to the canister broken! This was the obvious problem I realized when I got back under there and started to trace actual lines out. Missed this when replacing those parts cuz it was kind of hidden up and above the whole area. It was rusted apart! I managed to repair it with plastic tubing and hose clamps for now. Drove for awhile and cel would still not clear itself. Then Finally just disconnected the battery for like a minute or a few. Cleared it and I haven’t seen the light since. Have put on more than 40 miles highway and city driving. I knew and read about the gas cap deal before all this as well. Thanks! I’m glad I now know about these fuses I can simply pull rather than messing with the battery terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So after this experience I’d have to say you do have to clear the code physically cuz it was never clearing on its own for me like some say it should.
 

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Ahh I spoke to soon! Dam! The light came back going about 80mph, otw home from work right after I posted these messages. This time I got a p0420 code as well as the 1457 again😞. I have already replaced the two 02 sensors. Thinking the catalytic gasket on the one side, the front. The back side was welded. As for the 1457 code again, I don’t know, I suppose my plastic tubing and hose clamps were not enough or that very rusted line has another leak somewhere. Thought it didn’t need to withstand much pressure though...
 

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143374

heres a pic of the area that rusted apart, I had to use two differEnt sized plastic tubing like a 5/16s into a 3/8s or something along those lines hence the three hose clamps.
 
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