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Hello, I'm new to this site and was looking for help on my 2000 CRV. Not sure what to look for next or what to do next. The check engine light came on 5 days ago and started flashing, I noticed prior to light coming on the car was starting to vibrate and acted like it was not getting enough gas (on highway doing about 75mph), I slowed down and exited highway to my destination. I was really concerned so I took it directly to a parts house and had them put their hand held tester on it and the code was my spark plugs and wires were the issue. I change spark plugs about 8 months ago when check engine light came on (no flashing just steady on), had the tester put on and it said one spark plug was bad (replaced all plugs), reset computer and light has not been on since. Since then my son has replaced the plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotator, coil and fuel filter. Light comes on flashes until I get past 25 mph, it then stays on for some time or I slow down to 20 mph, I can feel the vibration off and on up to 55 mph (only driven twice since episode 6 miles away),( no highway driving since then). The CRV has 17500 miles on it, had timing belt and water pump changed at about 70 thousand miles. Had it retested and still the same code appears for spark plugs and wires, I have enjoyed my car and have had no major problems in the fifteen yrs I have owed it. Any advise on what to do or look at would be appreciated.

Thank you,
pkshipley
 

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Hello, I'm new to this site and was looking for help on my 2000 CRV. Not sure what to look for next or what to do next. The check engine light came on 5 days ago and started flashing, I noticed prior to light coming on the car was starting to vibrate and acted like it was not getting enough gas (on highway doing about 75mph), I slowed down and exited highway to my destination. I was really concerned so I took it directly to a parts house and had them put their hand held tester on it and the code was my spark plugs and wires were the issue. I change spark plugs about 8 months ago when check engine light came on (no flashing just steady on), had the tester put on and it said one spark plug was bad (replaced all plugs), reset computer and light has not been on since. Since then my son has replaced the plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotator, coil and fuel filter. Light comes on flashes until I get past 25 mph, it then stays on for some time or I slow down to 20 mph, I can feel the vibration off and on up to 55 mph (only driven twice since episode 6 miles away),( no highway driving since then). The CRV has 17500 miles on it, had timing belt and water pump changed at about 70 thousand miles. Had it retested and still the same code appears for spark plugs and wires, I have enjoyed my car and have had no major problems in the fifteen yrs I have owed it. Any advise on what to do or look at would be appreciated.

Thank you,
pkshipley
What brand of spark plugs and cables did you use?
 

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Was there a problem eight months after you had the problem corrected, that caused you Son to create basically the same problem again only worse ?? When replacing Honda spark plugs, only use NGK, as in OEM. JMO and keep us informed, Good luck.
David g.
 

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It is possible that the bearings in the distributor are loose and causing the rotor to bounce around under the cap.
 

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NGK 4291 ZFR6F-11 V-Power Spark Plugs are the ones that seem to work best in your yr CRV. Quite a few CRV owners reported that using Bosch spark plugs caused misfires, etc.
I would have someone do a compression check to see if one cylinder is low in compression. Early CRVs did have problems with the exhaust valves receding into the seats, esp if the valve clearance adj was not done.
Adjusting the valve clearance is not too difficult and probably needs to be done. I am assuming that you have replaced the fuel filter on the firewall since you bought the CRV.
Some older CRVs also suffered distributor rotor wobble problems, as Shryp suggested.
Some links that may help:
http://www.visualimpressions.ca/switch/
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for your interest: the spark plugs put in were not NGK, but the new ones we put in, plugs and wires are what Honda recommends, the correct ones. I also had it retested after we replaced everything and it still says its the spark plugs and wires.
pkshipley
 

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It now has NGK plugs in it. I have been doing more reading on this site and my son had suggested a valve adjustment. I don't think this has ever been done as I did not know it was part of maintenance for this suv. Will be checking into this. Thanks pkshipley
 

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Yes, do a compression test and a valve lash adjustment. You should probably buy a valve cover gasket set which includes the rubber grommets for the spark plugs. Buying them online (Felpro is a good brand) is cheaper. Adj the exhaust valves towards the largest end of the recommended range and adj the intake valves towards the tightest end of the recommended range.
Reason is that the exhaust valves get tighter due to them slowing receding into their seats and the intake valves become slightly looser due to cam lobe and cam follower wear.
Buffalo4
PS: Basically the code says misfire, which can be caused by an exhaust valve not closing or sealing properly, among other things, such as a worn out distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you, I now have a few things to looked at and or test. Yes the fuel filter has been change but sorry to say it should have been done a long time ago. As far as I know I have never done a valve adjustment, just another thing I didn't know about or I would have had it done. The Honda dealer (service center) never suggested that this should be done when I have had maintenance services done WOW. Do you think it would be save to drive the car to repair shop or should I trailer it, I'm about 25 miles to the nearest shop. My husband tells me to drive it, but I do not want to do more damage to it. pkshipley
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again, I will see if my son is willing to tackle this job, he has a knack for working on engines, but if not I will take it in to a shop. He did replace the distributor, rotor, coil and fuel filter. Will let you all know how things come out when completed may take a few days. pkshipley
 

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I would not hesitate to drive it (short distances and not on a 1000 mile trip) since it has been an ongoing problem for you. Have your son do a compression test and a valve lash adjustment in the very near future. Those two items are very low in parts costs, including a feeler gauge. You can probably borrow (auto parts stores) or just buy a compression gauge.
You said that he replaced the distributor, but I think you meant just some of the parts contained in it and not the igniter or the distributor itself.
Start with the compression test and valve lash adjustment and then continue on from there if that doesn't reveal or fix the problem.
Throwing parts at it usually results in a lot of money before the solution is found.
Have him read the info in the second link I posted above: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_144406240308412&key=e0f4d5b76756fc288c9c1e5986e97af4&libId=ife55sal01000b4v000DA1qiv09xd4i9xv&loc=http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/93754-2000-crv-check-engine-light-blinking-not-blniking.html#post598241&v=1&out=http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1&title=2000 CRV Check Engine Light on (blinking and not blniking)&txt=http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda...system-tests-1
Buffalo4
 

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Tell your son not to crank the engine with the key with the spark plugs removed. Without the wires grounded properly he can short out the new parts he just put in the distributor. Make sure the distributor is disconnected first.
 

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If your son decides to do a compression test, have him pull the ignition fuse or disconnect the low voltage connector that goes to the distributor (it is right next to the distributor). Even cranking the engine over to move the rotor (distributor cap off or the spark plug wires not connected or grounded) so that its screw can be accessed, can cause the ignition coil to internally short itself and cause a very weak or failed coil.
Good point Shryp.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update On 2000 CRV Engine light On

Just an update on my 2000 CRV. Had it to the shop did a compression test and No# 4 cylinder is only at 50lbs of compression, motor is going. I'm getting an estimate today on putting a rebuilt motor back in it. Need some opinions on whether or not to do this or sell it as is and get nothing out of it. I was really upset when I got the news, I loved my CRV. Any opinions would be welcomed. Thanks pkshipley
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, the No#4 cylinder has only 50lbs of compression, shop did wet and dry test, adjusted valves. Basically motor has seen its last days. Mechanic said he could put a used motor in having 50 thousand miles already on it, he would replace necessary parts so it would be maintenance free for another 90 thousand miles, other than oil changes etc. for around $3,200.00. Please give me your opinion on this. The CRV is in good condition. Is there a newer year motor that would be better or work with this rig? Any thoughts are welcome good or bad.
Thanks, pkshipley
 

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It could just be a burned exhaust valve and/or it seat. May be a lot cheaper to fix it than to replace it. Worth looking into.
A compression test is very informative and usually stops a person from just throwing parts and time into a possible repair.
Sad result, overall.
Buffalo4
 
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